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Again CEL..

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Old 02-03-2011, 11:08 PM
  #16  
TRAKCAR
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The car was fixed yesterday; Exactly as 9Ninesixer described, they replace the intercooler valve.
Car is running great

The only few laps in the dark today:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6wsNnZ5L58
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nID_AWL1Yg4


Only got 10 laps in the dark, not enough to be sure where the apexes and track out were exactly.
Track out T1 was invisable, T12/13 black, Bisschop bend the apexes were hard to find, T16 could not see track out and I could not find the apex at T17..

A car spilled cooland and made it pretty slippery. Also it was pretty warm, about 75F so not ideal.

Still fun to run in the dark :-)
Old 02-03-2011, 11:51 PM
  #17  
aussie jimmy
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great video, peter! again, love your driving - the car sounds very strong at the top end, just really crisp.
that boxter spyder shouldn't have cut across infront of you, but hey, night time is a whole new ball game.....top fun!
Old 02-04-2011, 02:56 AM
  #18  
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This is so different, I never driven at night on a track, very exciting. Nice driving Peter
Old 02-04-2011, 10:28 AM
  #19  
deputydog95
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Peter: Congrats on getting it running properly. Be safe out there. I got wait listed for the 48. Made it down to number 2 on the list. Not close enough. I might stop by there Sat night on my way back from Orlando. It's the long way home, but I did it last year and saw some excellent racing.

Verbotn: Typical racer advice

Will be at pca Feb 26th though. I will have my first student. Scary. I have no business teaching anyone how to drive

I did a night event at Homestead last year. I had never driven the GT3 on a track before, never been to homestead before, never ran at night before, and then it rained. Recipe for disaster right? Entertaining at the very least. I didn't break any records but I didn't have to call a wrecker either. Good times!
Old 04-11-2011, 09:05 PM
  #20  
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CEL light came on again, same error code, I think and same symptoms for sure. Probably the C the intercooler valve again.
Car going back to Champion first thing AM.
Old 04-11-2011, 10:06 PM
  #21  
porsche wrench
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Have them verify vacuum supply to control valvef for trans cooler with engine running at idle. Vacuum line can become disconnected under intake or vacuum leak can cause this problem. This was the case for savyboys 2rs cel.
Old 04-11-2011, 11:56 PM
  #22  
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Thanks, will mention. I need a quick fix!
Old 04-12-2011, 12:06 AM
  #23  
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Best of luck Peter, hope it gets fixed in time for RATL
Old 04-12-2011, 08:20 AM
  #24  
TeamDrugMoney
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Peter,

Just saw this thread now. Glad to hear that all is well. Looking forward to seeing you at VIR one week from today!

Mike
Old 04-12-2011, 08:39 AM
  #25  
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Don't be trying to back out of your road trip
Old 04-12-2011, 01:38 PM
  #26  
Izzone
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Originally Posted by TeamDrugMoney
Peter,

Just saw this thread now. Glad to hear that all is well. Looking forward to seeing you at VIR one week from today!

Mike
Get it fixed Peter

I'm at VIR too
Old 04-12-2011, 02:05 PM
  #27  
Nine9Sixer
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Peter, i had a defective unit twice. Best guess is supplier quality issues with a particular batch. Just get same replaced- wouldn't sweat it.
Old 04-12-2011, 02:10 PM
  #28  
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That's what I am hoping, same exact code.
They need to put a move on because I'm loading my trailer Thursday to leave Road ATL Friday AM.

I have good hopes, guys at Champion are usually on the ball.
Old 04-13-2011, 12:07 PM
  #29  
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Default new tsb

There is a new TSB from Porsche regarding this issue published 24th March 2011:


Technical Information
28/11 EN 3477

Mar 24, 2011

Unnecessary replacement of coolant regulator and temperature sensor (28/11)


Model year: as of 2007

Information



Vehicle Type:
911 GT3 (997)/911 GT3 RS (997)

Concerns: Disc valve on transmission

Situation: Unnecessary replacement of coolant regulator and temperature sensor With regard to the customer complaints Displayed temperature too low

Display only works sporadically
and the following fault memory entries in the DME control unitP2181 – Thermostat stuck open
P3081 – Engine coolant temperature implausible
we are getting more and more reports that the coolant regulator and/or temperature sensor is being replaced.These problems can occur independently of each other - depending on driving style and country.The main cause is a blocked disc valve; -arrow- (illustration shows the position of the disc valve on the transmission).
An indication of a defective disc valve is also if the oil temperature and coolant temperature are almost identical in the warm-up phase. As a rule, the coolant temperature should be higher than the oil temperature.

Deformation of the sealing ring can mean that the function of the disc valve can no longer be guaranteed

As a result, an additional cooling circuit is opened via transmission cooling in the warm-up phase and the engine is slow to reach operating temperature.

Action Required: In the event of a complaint, check the disc valve (visual inspection and function test) before replacing the coolant regulator and/or temperature sensor.
Only remove and check the disc valve when the engine is cold.
Part Nos.: 928.574.573.03
Disc valve


Tools: Hose clamping pliers Nr.192

Procedure: The disc valve must be removed for the test.Only carry out the following procedure when the engine is cold. 1 Removing disc valve

1.1 Remove underbody panelling,
1.2 Clamp off water supply and return hoses using hose clamping pliers ahead of the disc valve and after the transmission oil cooler.
1.3 Remove hose clamps and vacuum line between the vacuum unit (disc valve) and change-over valve and loosen screw (disc valve at sheetmetal holder).
1.4 Remove disc valve.

2 Visual inspection
When the disc valve is removed, you will be able to see during a visual inspection whether the disc valve seal is deformed and whether it is positioned in the correct groove.
2.1 Hold the disc valve against the light and look into one of the two water hose adapters.
2.2 If the seal is no longer in installation position, you will see parts of the seal at the inner wall of the adapter.
Is the seal in its original installation position?
If it is: ⇒ Step 3
If not: ⇒ Step 4

3 Function test (approx. 0.1 litres of water required for this)
3.1 Turn the removed disc valve in your hand so that the black adapter is facing upwards.
3.2 Move the disc valve over the joint rod with your hand until it is in “Closed” position and hold it closed with your hand.
3.3 Check the disc valve for leaks:
To do this, fill water into the upward-facing open adapter.
Does water come out of the opposite adapter?
If it does: ⇒ Step 4
If not: ⇒ Step 3.4
3.4 Disc valve is not leaking.
Install the disc valve in reverse order to removal.
Check the coolant level and correct it if necessary.
3.5 Work through the fault codes using “Guided Fault Finding” in PIWIS Tester II.
End of action required.


4 Replacing disc valve
4.1 Replace the defective disc valve.
Install the disc valve in reverse order to removal.
Check the coolant level and correct it if necessary
4.2 Work through the fault codes using “Guided Fault Finding” in PIWIS Tester II.
End of action required.
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:42 PM
  #30  
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Thanks 911SLOW!
They're telling me this was a different code, but I am not so sure.

They're installing a O2 sensor tomorrow(Not in stock) but my car ran cooler and I don't see how that has anything to do with the O2 sensor.

It takes about a day and 50+ miles to get the trans cooler valve error, we cleared it before towing the car to the dealer to see if it came back when driving that car. I did get a check engine message immediately and assumed same code, but we did not actually read it out...

If the above posted fault code comes back, the car will just run cooler right? Should I just drive the car and not worry about it?


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