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GT1 Coolant Pipe Prevention / Fix on 2011 GT3RS @ Shark Werks

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Old 01-27-2011, 01:58 PM
  #16  
andrew2008
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It's possible the glue that Porsche uses in the fittings is designed so the fittings
can be removed in the future. There may be some extra strong epoxy which could be
used to glue the fittings in. The downside would be if there is a leak or crack in
the fitting, removing it may not be possible. If such an epoxy is available, it
may be an alternative to TIG welding.
Old 01-27-2011, 04:30 PM
  #17  
911rox
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Originally Posted by Nizer
I prefer a solution that doesn't lead to an engine drop, whether it be from catastrophic failure to trickle leakage around the bonds.
So do I... But there are no guarantees when you are tig welding components not designed to be welded either (thickness wise)... Welds can crack if not done right= leak= engine drop...

Only way for this to be done "100%" would be to go to the parts manufacturer and get them to recast units as one piece... Obviously Porsche ain't stepping up to the plate for that one....
Old 01-27-2011, 05:24 PM
  #18  
Sarum87
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does anyone know what it would take to make porsche issue a recall on this issue? has anyone talked to a lawyer and gotten their perspective? seems like such an obvious safety problem that has occurred on many vehicles. tons of documentation and evidence on the issue. you see toyota making recalls all the time. is it just down to the company and their willingness to turn a blind eye to the issue? is there a regulating body that should be notified?
Old 01-27-2011, 07:01 PM
  #19  
micahbones
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And as a stop gap until you can execute this solution or TIG welding per the Excellence article, replace your coolant with water wetter & H2O in the interim. Will at least prevent you and the cars behind you from losing traction & potentially crashing on the super slick coolant dump.
Old 01-27-2011, 08:46 PM
  #20  
sharkster
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Thanks for posting

And Porsche does not do this because...................??!!
Our pleasure man.. It's weird because we first saw this happen in late 2005 whilst a pro-driver/magazine editor was testing my then 800hp 3.8L 2001 996TT at the track. I got a very concerned call as he thought the motor had blown (heads lifted etc..). When we got the car back to the shop and pulled the motor to our surprise there was one of those lines completely out. Figured it was a fluke, hot day etc... In 2006 when James was building TT engines he just made sure to secure them all as part of the the engine build. I figured it would go away with the later revisions of the GT1 block but here we are yet again on a 2011 GT3RS with 500 miles and still doing it...
Originally Posted by FFaust
Cross-posting my comments from the 996 GT2/GT3 section cause I know some of the 997 guys don't come over there often

Thank you Dan. This is a truly ubiquitous problem; we've all seen it or experienced it first hand I'm sure.

While talking to Alex last week, the topic came up as I wondered aloud about the logistics of sending in the various manifolds for you guys to do your magic. But, the logistics would be complex, the cost too high, and the hassles of crossing the US/Canada border excessive.

However, reading your post just now, inspiration hit. Here is what SHARKWERKS needs to do:

- You need to build and sell a kit with hardware, sealant, and clear instructions so that owners of GT1-blocked cars WORLDWIDE could carry out the modification locally. Heck, you could even include drill and tap As far as I am concerned... name your price!

Who knows if this will be a huge money maker but I doubt that it will cannibalize your local business, so there is no downside for you. Plus, if nothing else, think of the goodwill such a move will create and it would certainly, ONCE AGAIN, put SHARKWERKS at the top of the Porsche Performance supplier list.

You guys have my address, so please ship me the first kit
Aw thanks and good talking to you. I wish this wasn't an issue but

I believe in part due to everyone going public about this over the last year especially I've seen some parts/kits available so I'll chat to James about it

Originally Posted by cfjan
During the drilling and tapping process, how does one prevent the debris from going into the system? All coolant was drained prior to the drilling, I guess?
Roger that on draining and the debirs remains with the tap kit


Originally Posted by rodjac
Last year I had Sharkwerks fix the coolant tubes on my GT2. I have tracked a GT3 and then a GT2 for five years without any problem. But i started worrying about the coolant leak happening on a high speed turn and decided to get James to fix it. It isn't cheap since he has to pull the engine but is well worth ir for the peace of mind it buys.
Roger that... better safe than sorry. In fact your motor has a couple more vs the NA GT3s but this is the same reason we have the 2011 here now

Originally Posted by PJS996GT3
what are the downsides to this?
I cannot think of one and it seems way easier than welding...

I just copied this thread and sent it to my tech

often times the best solutions are the simplest - thank you very much for posting
Thanks man and

Originally Posted by 911S4
Thank you very much for posting this fix Dan, its really impressive to see the step by step process, and you guys do some incredible work.

Thinking into this a bit more, would it be advantageous to run a tap with the same thread pitch as the bolt your using into the cast aluminum coolant manifold in an effort to provide more bite and surface area for the red locktite to properly adhere to in an effort to reduce the likelihood of the threaded bolt vibrating or working its way out eventually?
Our pleasure and thanks for the kind words. That's actually how James does it (with a tap) basically... And I believe we've done around 15-16 of these and not one has come back. I think Porsche could/should have done some sort of update by now but with the GT1 being phased out I guess not?

Originally Posted by 911SLOW
It's a quick fix and will hold better than the glue and prevent a sudden release of all fluids, only concerns would be that the coolant might become contaminated while drilling and tapping, and that the bolt won't prevent minor leaks if glue fails.

Maybe if motor is out welding or threads would be a better idea anyway?
There are a few ways to fix this problem including welding the joints. The Excellence February 2011 issue outlines some other options as well. Welding the joints is a more expensive/complex option. The engine is further disassembled: intake assembly removed, power steering pump, water pump casting removed, rear engine mount, the pieces must be put in a kiln using heat to soften the adhesive and remove the tubes, and the castings need to be cleaned, replacement machined tubes must be used & welded. If you have a great welder you trust it might not be a problem but it's a lot more work.

The adhesive around the tube acts like an o-ring to hold the coolant in, the problem we're seeing isn't the coolant leaking through the adhesive, it's the tube completing ejecting from the casting when the adhesive softens.

Originally Posted by Nizer
Also, this solution prevents catastrophic loss but if the glue degrades over time wouldn't leakage ultimately occur around the press fit joints?
See above

Originally Posted by 911rox
Ultimately, a trickle of coolant can be detected and repaired... A gusher can hurt you or others... Benefit with this method is you can back those screws out, re-glue and do them up quite easily... Downside- its going to cost a crapload if they constantly fail and the engine is continually being dropped...

Biggest problem is that neither welding or tapping is ideal... They both have their issues... And who knows which is the lesser of two evils???
I wish it wasn't something we had to do. Honestly I mean that.. I wish it hadn't happened to my 01 at the track with a magazine editor. At the time he'd not heard of anything like that and it took a few pictures/explanations to show him that everything really was ok. He was back on the track in 3 days so he sort of understood

Originally Posted by Nizer
I prefer a solution that doesn't lead to an engine drop, whether it be from catastrophic failure to trickle leakage around the bonds.
I agree but there's just no way to reach all of them. You fix the ones you can get to but then the others behind become the weak points;(

Originally Posted by micahbones
And as a stop gap until you can execute this solution or TIG welding per the Excellence article, replace your coolant with water wetter & H2O in the interim. Will at least prevent you and the cars behind you from losing traction & potentially crashing on the super slick coolant dump.
Certainly won't hurt...
Old 01-27-2011, 10:14 PM
  #21  
Nizer
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Originally Posted by sharkster
I figured it would go away with the later revisions of the GT1 block but here we are yet again on a 2011 GT3RS with 500 miles and still doing it...
To clarify, we haven't seen an actual failure on the 10/11 GT3's yet, correct?
Old 01-27-2011, 10:28 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Nizer
To clarify, we haven't seen an actual failure on the 10/11 GT3's yet, correct?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIL8PxLmjm4
Old 01-28-2011, 01:10 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Nizer
To clarify, we haven't seen an actual failure on the 10/11 GT3's yet, correct?
I wish I could say that's true but... I've already spoken to two people with 2010s that had it happen James says although the manifold and thermostat is a bit different they do suffer from the same weakness/symptom...
Old 01-28-2011, 01:24 PM
  #24  
TRAKCAR
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I just had my Thermostate and sensor replaced under warranty. It was not the Thermostate as they replaced that first en then the sensor, I run water wetten, but hope they were gentle with my coolant hoses.
Old 01-28-2011, 01:59 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I just had my Thermostate and sensor replaced under warranty. It was not the Thermostate as they replaced that first en then the sensor, I run water wetten, but hope they were gentle with my coolant hoses.
Roger that.... I still wish this wasn't even an issue
Old 01-28-2011, 03:56 PM
  #26  
Yoops Racing
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This crap bugs the **** out of me about the stupity at Porsche..... WTF get over the attitude this is just crappy engineering at it's finest. They need to step up and fix this right.

Alex thanks for showing us a possible fix.
Old 01-28-2011, 10:23 PM
  #27  
mdrums
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Sorry if this is a dumb question but what do th GT3 Cups do about this issue?
Old 01-29-2011, 12:14 AM
  #28  
savyboy
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Originally Posted by mdrums
Sorry if this is a dumb question but what do th GT3 Cups do about this issue?
Weld
Old 01-29-2011, 09:59 AM
  #29  
TRAKCAR
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Weld
The factory welds them?
So they have the solution...
Old 01-29-2011, 10:02 AM
  #30  
Izzone
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Originally Posted by savyboy
Weld
I saw a cup at PBOC winterfest pop a coolant line in teh hot pits a couple of weeks ago


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