I made the switch
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 611
Likes: 39
I made the switch
Moving up in this world from the 996 GT3 forum to this one. Picked up a .2 RS on Saturday. Was sorry to see the yellow car go but love the new one. I've been gaining valuable info from this site on the switch so as to have minimal downtime at the track. Thanks all and look forward to contributing. Car goes in for alignment next week, and I'm crossing my fingers that the roll bar arrives before my next event.
Wordsmith
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,623
Likes: 11
Moving up in this world from the 996 GT3 forum to this one. Picked up a .2 RS on Saturday. Was sorry to see the yellow car go but love the new one. I've been gaining valuable info from this site on the switch so as to have minimal downtime at the track. Thanks all and look forward to contributing. Car goes in for alignment next week, and I'm crossing my fingers that the roll bar arrives before my next event.
What alignment specs and why the roll bar change? (what bar specs?)
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 611
Likes: 39
Thanks for the kind words. I had the tequipment bar in the 996 (won't fit) so am going with the DAS sport. For alignment, based on other feedback (and subject to modification by my setup guy), I will likely start with -2.5F/-2.0R, zero toe front with slight toe in in rear (maybe .12" per side), front bar full stiff, rear bar one from soft. I'll let you know if he suggests differently. To get the camber in the front without undue castor change, we will likely rotate strut and use shims (again, I'll let you know if this changes). This is for the stock MPSC tires which I'll run for now and the car will be driven frequently on the street as well (I just can't bear to let her sit for long).
Early feedback on the differences on the street are mostly on power delivery and sound. The power is impressive, the lightweight flywheel racecar fast, and the sound of the engine with the sport button on, is almost italian in tone and is sooooooo addicting. Can't test true handling until the track. Ride is really tolerable (dare I say comfortable) on the street. Easily as compliant or more so than the 996. Still working on being smooth on throttle blip when heel toeing, esp in sport mode (big adjustment from the 996 with stock flywheel). In sum, simply awesome. To me, the 996 feels like a slightly detuned race car for the street while the .2 RS feels like a race car that happens to be street legal.
Early feedback on the differences on the street are mostly on power delivery and sound. The power is impressive, the lightweight flywheel racecar fast, and the sound of the engine with the sport button on, is almost italian in tone and is sooooooo addicting. Can't test true handling until the track. Ride is really tolerable (dare I say comfortable) on the street. Easily as compliant or more so than the 996. Still working on being smooth on throttle blip when heel toeing, esp in sport mode (big adjustment from the 996 with stock flywheel). In sum, simply awesome. To me, the 996 feels like a slightly detuned race car for the street while the .2 RS feels like a race car that happens to be street legal.
Wordsmith
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,623
Likes: 11
Thanks for the kind words. I had the tequipment bar in the 996 (won't fit) so am going with the DAS sport. For alignment, based on other feedback (and subject to modification by my setup guy), I will likely start with -2.5F/-2.0R, zero toe front with slight toe in in rear (maybe .12" per side), front bar full stiff, rear bar one from soft. I'll let you know if he suggests differently. To get the camber in the front without undue castor change, we will likely rotate strut and use shims (again, I'll let you know if this changes). This is for the stock MPSC tires which I'll run for now and the car will be driven frequently on the street as well (I just can't bear to let her sit for long).
Early feedback on the differences on the street are mostly on power delivery and sound. The power is impressive, the lightweight flywheel racecar fast, and the sound of the engine with the sport button on, is almost italian in tone and is sooooooo addicting. Can't test true handling until the track. Ride is really tolerable (dare I say comfortable) on the street. Easily as compliant or more so than the 996. Still working on being smooth on throttle blip when heel toeing, esp in sport mode (big adjustment from the 996 with stock flywheel). In sum, simply awesome. To me, the 996 feels like a slightly detuned race car for the street while the .2 RS feels like a race car that happens to be street legal.
Early feedback on the differences on the street are mostly on power delivery and sound. The power is impressive, the lightweight flywheel racecar fast, and the sound of the engine with the sport button on, is almost italian in tone and is sooooooo addicting. Can't test true handling until the track. Ride is really tolerable (dare I say comfortable) on the street. Easily as compliant or more so than the 996. Still working on being smooth on throttle blip when heel toeing, esp in sport mode (big adjustment from the 996 with stock flywheel). In sum, simply awesome. To me, the 996 feels like a slightly detuned race car for the street while the .2 RS feels like a race car that happens to be street legal.
For alignment, check your rear toe -- the 997 uses a LOT of rear toe-in, not a little.
I'd start at -2.0 front camber on Sport Cups. I tried -2.2 and found -1.9 to bring higher apex speeds ... given Mac struts and zero camber gain and almost zero body roll, the experience in the 997.1 RS is not directly applicable to the .2 RS. At -2.5, you'd start to bring on inside shoulder wear on the street. In any case, caster won't change.
I'd recommend getting the connectors from the dealer to build an exhaust divertor valve bypass switch (look for posts by mikymu on this ... it's easy and sonorous.)
If you ever wanted to have the 996 GT3 speak in full voice, just bypass the side cans and you have the real machine ... I've never driven a water-cooled 911 that sounded better than the 996 GT3 with the bypass. The 997.1 and 997.2 GT3's sound great outside the car, but still have a hint of "Boxster" in there. The divertor valve bypass switch goes some of the way to improving that sound, but I think you have to pull the the mufflers entirely to get to the real sound track in the .2 GT cars.
Overall, from what you've said, I'd encourage you to go ahead with the safety gear and leave the suspension bone stock for your first track day. You'll be astonished by the apex speeds and braking performance. As you note, on the street, there's no way to access what the car offers, no way to get heat in the tires and no way to take the car to 100 mph+ in a straight line, let alone at the apex of a turn! : ) Once you have a feel for the car and your own limits, then you can set to work on where you want it.
Trending Topics
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 26,155
Likes: 3,923
From: S.F Bay Area
DAS is a good bar and fits perfectly.
For alignment, check your rear toe -- the 997 uses a LOT of rear toe-in, not a little.
I'd start at -2.0 front camber on Sport Cups. I tried -2.2 and found -1.9 to bring higher apex speeds ... given Mac struts and zero camber gain and almost zero body roll, the experience in the 997.1 RS is not directly applicable to the .2 RS. At -2.5, you'd start to bring on inside shoulder wear on the street. In any case, caster won't change.
I'd recommend getting the connectors from the dealer to build an exhaust divertor valve bypass switch (look for posts by mikymu on this ... it's easy and sonorous.)
If you ever wanted to have the 996 GT3 speak in full voice, just bypass the side cans and you have the real machine ... I've never driven a water-cooled 911 that sounded better than the 996 GT3 with the bypass. The 997.1 and 997.2 GT3's sound great outside the car, but still have a hint of "Boxster" in there. The divertor valve bypass switch goes some of the way to improving that sound, but I think you have to pull the the mufflers entirely to get to the real sound track in the .2 GT cars.
Overall, from what you've said, I'd encourage you to go ahead with the safety gear and leave the suspension bone stock for your first track day. You'll be astonished by the apex speeds and braking performance. As you note, on the street, there's no way to access what the car offers, no way to get heat in the tires and no way to take the car to 100 mph+ in a straight line, let alone at the apex of a turn! : ) Once you have a feel for the car and your own limits, then you can set to work on where you want it.
For alignment, check your rear toe -- the 997 uses a LOT of rear toe-in, not a little.
I'd start at -2.0 front camber on Sport Cups. I tried -2.2 and found -1.9 to bring higher apex speeds ... given Mac struts and zero camber gain and almost zero body roll, the experience in the 997.1 RS is not directly applicable to the .2 RS. At -2.5, you'd start to bring on inside shoulder wear on the street. In any case, caster won't change.
I'd recommend getting the connectors from the dealer to build an exhaust divertor valve bypass switch (look for posts by mikymu on this ... it's easy and sonorous.)
If you ever wanted to have the 996 GT3 speak in full voice, just bypass the side cans and you have the real machine ... I've never driven a water-cooled 911 that sounded better than the 996 GT3 with the bypass. The 997.1 and 997.2 GT3's sound great outside the car, but still have a hint of "Boxster" in there. The divertor valve bypass switch goes some of the way to improving that sound, but I think you have to pull the the mufflers entirely to get to the real sound track in the .2 GT cars.
Overall, from what you've said, I'd encourage you to go ahead with the safety gear and leave the suspension bone stock for your first track day. You'll be astonished by the apex speeds and braking performance. As you note, on the street, there's no way to access what the car offers, no way to get heat in the tires and no way to take the car to 100 mph+ in a straight line, let alone at the apex of a turn! : ) Once you have a feel for the car and your own limits, then you can set to work on where you want it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1V9lW1CW-4
for $150 it could be another (albeit pricey) solution ...
Rennlist Stories
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
Every Era of 911 Owner Explained in One Sentence
Verdad Gallardo
Thinking of Buying a Porsche? Do These 10 Things First
Joe Kucinski
Pixar Pals Turned Into 1-of-1 Porsches!
Michael S. Palmer
Theon Goes Full Carbon Fiber With Stunning New Build
Verdad Gallardo
Genius Porsche-Themed Gifts That'll Make Any Dad or Grad Smile
Joe Kucinski
10 Used Porsches Are Selling for Way Too Cheap
Joe Kucinski
Tuner Is Converting Porsche 911s Into Shooting Brakes
Verdad Gallardo
This Coachbuilt Creation Is A Modern Take on the Legendary Porsche 917
Verdad Gallardo