GT3 Suspension question
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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I went in for a tech inspection prior to a local DE and the inspection noted a couple of things:
1) Rear control arm heim joint & toe link not adjusted properly
2) Rear sway drop links have too great of an angle
Even though they said the car was good to go for the track, the shop recommended getting these things checked/adjusted.
I wanted to ask members of the forum if these look ok, or if they should indeed be adjusted (and how?). Is it OK if the heim joints are twisted as shown in the pict, or should each joint be centered/straight on each ball end? The sway bar is set to the softest setting causing the bottom part of the drop link to be at an angle. It looks like a stiffer setting would reduce the angle and square up the bushing on the drop link.
I should note that I bought the car with upgraded suspension (Motons, dog bone kit). I think the rear sway bar is also aftermarket, but I'm not sure. Maybe someone can confirm?
Thanks in advance!
1) Rear control arm heim joint & toe link not adjusted properly
2) Rear sway drop links have too great of an angle
Even though they said the car was good to go for the track, the shop recommended getting these things checked/adjusted.
I wanted to ask members of the forum if these look ok, or if they should indeed be adjusted (and how?). Is it OK if the heim joints are twisted as shown in the pict, or should each joint be centered/straight on each ball end? The sway bar is set to the softest setting causing the bottom part of the drop link to be at an angle. It looks like a stiffer setting would reduce the angle and square up the bushing on the drop link.
I should note that I bought the car with upgraded suspension (Motons, dog bone kit). I think the rear sway bar is also aftermarket, but I'm not sure. Maybe someone can confirm?
Thanks in advance!
#3
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The control arm should be "square" ... both joints lined up. The way it is, unless the suspension is at full droop, but I assume it's sitting on the tires, will bind, create resistance and wear on the contact points. Just lazy work on the part of the suspension tech.
The drop link is meant to be "perpendicular and vertical" to remove all leverage and changes in effective length. What you've got there is junk -- someone stuffed in the old factory link. I'm guessing the car is riding too low and the sways have rotated forward.
Simple fixes. Not expensive. I'd like to know the shop that did the install so others never go there.
The drop link is meant to be "perpendicular and vertical" to remove all leverage and changes in effective length. What you've got there is junk -- someone stuffed in the old factory link. I'm guessing the car is riding too low and the sways have rotated forward.
Simple fixes. Not expensive. I'd like to know the shop that did the install so others never go there.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Aftermarket swaybar links will come with a spacer of sorts that moves the point out and realigns the links. There is no way a properly adjusted suspension (adjustable) should use OEM links. If the car is corner balanced then theoretically all corners have different heights meaning that your bar is preloaded and affects the way it handles.
ERP, Tarett and RSS all make good drop links from what I've seen.
ERP, Tarett and RSS all make good drop links from what I've seen.