2010 GT3RS Brake Pad Wear- Pictures
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
2010 GT3RS Brake Pad Wear- Pictures
Ok, here we go. 7 full track days. Aggressive but not abusive brake use. Rarely invoke PCM while tracking. Allow a cool down lap. 2400 miles on the clock.
Pads are wearing at an angle across the face of the pad, especially the front outboard pads but evident to some degree on all pads. Most wear at front edge of pads as if it is "biting into" the rotors.
Pad surface has a bit of heat cracking, but certainly no chunking or other worrisome charecteristics.
The rear pads could probably have gone another 3-4 track days, and were perhaps 50% gone.
Rotors by the way look A-OK.
So- my question to the audience is, do 997.1/.2 GT3's with steel and GT3 with PCCB wear like this? Mine is PCCB. Comments from folks with experience?
Wear is such that at the thin point it is less than backing plate thickness so off they come. I think 1-2 more track days and I would be into the backing plates at the front edge of the front pads.
I just installed P50 Greens from Craig at Rennstore and will see how they wear. On the drive home the pedal was rock solid and braking performance seemed fine, and perhaps a bit more pedal pressure was needed but no big deal or at all worrisome.
PS the Pagid P50's are Front 2707 Rear 8006. Stock are Pagid P40-3
Avid trackers had best get a set of pads ordered up as you see what to expect.
Pads are wearing at an angle across the face of the pad, especially the front outboard pads but evident to some degree on all pads. Most wear at front edge of pads as if it is "biting into" the rotors.
Pad surface has a bit of heat cracking, but certainly no chunking or other worrisome charecteristics.
The rear pads could probably have gone another 3-4 track days, and were perhaps 50% gone.
Rotors by the way look A-OK.
So- my question to the audience is, do 997.1/.2 GT3's with steel and GT3 with PCCB wear like this? Mine is PCCB. Comments from folks with experience?
Wear is such that at the thin point it is less than backing plate thickness so off they come. I think 1-2 more track days and I would be into the backing plates at the front edge of the front pads.
I just installed P50 Greens from Craig at Rennstore and will see how they wear. On the drive home the pedal was rock solid and braking performance seemed fine, and perhaps a bit more pedal pressure was needed but no big deal or at all worrisome.
PS the Pagid P50's are Front 2707 Rear 8006. Stock are Pagid P40-3
Avid trackers had best get a set of pads ordered up as you see what to expect.
Last edited by savyboy; 04-22-2010 at 09:47 PM. Reason: Added pad part numbers
#3
- exactly as pccb gt3.mk1
- pccb gt3.mk1 also experience "wedge" from top to bottom - especially on rears (pre-cooling ducts) - post ducts can't remember
- p50s last 1.5X longer - also will "wedge"
- you must re-warm p50 pads if you do a drive-thru pit lane
- usually full lap to come up to tempt
- RAD reported that compound is very similar to (Greys? iirc) so rs29s may also be another alternative - between OE and P50s
- pccb gt3.mk1 also experience "wedge" from top to bottom - especially on rears (pre-cooling ducts) - post ducts can't remember
- p50s last 1.5X longer - also will "wedge"
- you must re-warm p50 pads if you do a drive-thru pit lane
- usually full lap to come up to tempt
- RAD reported that compound is very similar to (Greys? iirc) so rs29s may also be another alternative - between OE and P50s
#4
GT3 player par excellence
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i only ran steel brakes but the wear pattern (tapered/angled) of the pad is similar.
#5
Rennlist Member
i only ran steel brakes but the wear pattern (tapered/angled) of the pad is similar
I am looking at putting studs in the rear uprights, like on the CUP cars, maybe the fronts also as I eventually will strip the aluminium uprights and have to add Time Certs as a fix or new uprights, if the caliper comes loose on the track. It should also make it a bit easier to take the calipers off.
#7
Rennlist Member
So- my question to the audience is, do 997.1/.2 GT3's with steel and GT3 with PCCB wear like this? Mine is PCCB. Comments from folks with experience?
Wear is such that at the thin point it is less than backing plate thickness so off they come. I think 1-2 more track days and I would be into the backing plates at the front edge of the front pads.
Wear is such that at the thin point it is less than backing plate thickness so off they come. I think 1-2 more track days and I would be into the backing plates at the front edge of the front pads.
PCCB front calipers contain three pairs of pistons of different sizes--IIRC the largest ones are at the top and the smallest at the bottom. Although it hasn't happened to me, I've seen two separate .1RS's with lazy pistons (typically the largest one) which eventually "prop up" one side of the pad and wear it down to a wedge--like the those in your pics. Have seen this happen fairly early on--on my last event this '08 RS with only 5k miles on the odo was having other work done trackside when the tech discovered that one of the front pads was worn all the way to the backing plate for the same reason...
So, long story short, not saying there's a big problem here (you still got a fair bit of pad left) but I don't think they're meant to wear unevenly. Doesn't hurt to have your dealer check the caliper pistons next time you're in there....
Last edited by CRex; 04-23-2010 at 05:35 AM.
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#8
Rennlist Member
pad wear you have was same i saw on my .1 GT3 with steel brakes. i asked the master technician about it and he said its normal. He just flipped the pads in front to maximize use. This was same on oem pads and then PF01's.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Flipping seems the sensible answer and is easy enough to do so that is my plan.
My new motto- "Flipping is for pads, cars are for driving!" haha!
3 events, 7 days. 1 Buttonwillow, 2 TH.
Coming up this month-Spring Mountain (x2), Buttonwillow, Laguna Seca, TH.
Reno/Fernley is TRYING to reopen for a few events this year. Chances are excellent SCCA is going to be able to run a DE there in June- so I am SUPER STOKED that for once I do not have to drive for hours and get a room just to feed my track-crack habit.
My new motto- "Flipping is for pads, cars are for driving!" haha!
Coming up this month-Spring Mountain (x2), Buttonwillow, Laguna Seca, TH.
Reno/Fernley is TRYING to reopen for a few events this year. Chances are excellent SCCA is going to be able to run a DE there in June- so I am SUPER STOKED that for once I do not have to drive for hours and get a room just to feed my track-crack habit.
#10
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Wear pattern looks familiar. The Green pads will wear a little better but you will still get a substantial wedge shape in front and will need to flip them to get maximum life.
#12
Rennlist Member
Can you tell me what's involved when changing bolt system to the stud system?
How does one prevent the stud from backing out (when you undo the nut)? It has some sort of locking mechanism when the stud goes in the first time?
I am looking at putting studs in the rear uprights, like on the CUP cars, maybe the fronts also as I eventually will strip the aluminium uprights and have to add Time Certs as a fix or new uprights, if the caliper comes loose on the track. It should also make it a bit easier to take the calipers off.
How does one prevent the stud from backing out (when you undo the nut)? It has some sort of locking mechanism when the stud goes in the first time?
I am looking at putting studs in the rear uprights, like on the CUP cars, maybe the fronts also as I eventually will strip the aluminium uprights and have to add Time Certs as a fix or new uprights, if the caliper comes loose on the track. It should also make it a bit easier to take the calipers off.
#13
Rennlist Member
When flipping, are you flipping left wheel pads with right wheel pads? Or flipping the pads within the same rotor?
Maybe it can be better when you move the left pads pads upside down to the right and the right pads vice versa when you have a track that uses a lot more brake on one of the fronts?
Can you tell me what's involved when changing bolt system to the stud system?
How does one prevent the stud from backing out (when you undo the nut)? It has some sort of locking mechanism when the stud goes in the first time?
How does one prevent the stud from backing out (when you undo the nut)? It has some sort of locking mechanism when the stud goes in the first time?
I do know that the OEM system does not work.