NVRANUF

Sorry if this has been covered, but I can't seem to find it.....

when folks talk about their sways being set to hard, soft or somewhere in between.... which end is soft and which is hard???

My rear sways were set to the 3rd hole in,


and my fronts are set to the 2nd hole in from the end....


Also when installing the rear brake ducts, removal of the dust shield makes it much easier to trim. You must trim the shield, otherwise the duct is virtually 3/4 blocked.

rmag

The shorter the distance between the sway bar attachment hole and drop link, the stiffer the setting. So the hole at the open end of the sway bar is softer.

cscrogham

Further toward the outside end of the bar is softer. Harder is closer to the fulcrum (center of the bar). Hope that helps.

Larry Cable

Think of the swaybar as a "lever" the longer the lever the less effort required, the shorter the lever, the more effort required ... hence less/more resistance, softer/stiffer ...

I agree the dust shields must be removed/trimmed, unfortunately you have to pull the calipers and rotors to remove the shields, the '10 has a different "pre cut" shield that obviates this ... care must be taken when cutting in-situ to avoid the cutting tool touching the surface of the rotor (esp PCCB) while trimming the shield.

replacing the shield would be a good idea if for example you were replacing your rear rotors ...

NVRANUF

Thanks guys.... the light went on!

Larry Cable

make sure if you adjust them to torque them properly you do not want them to come loose ...

Also, (unless you want to have some fun) don't do what I did with my original '99 mkI GT3 CS and adjust opposite ends to opposite ends, full soft/full stiff ...
it's not much fun! ... or is it?

NVRANUF

LOL, You're preaching to the choir on mixups like that... soooo

I think I'll leave them where they are for starters, it's how they came from the factory.

I still have RSS toe links and dog bones to install along with a track setup. Then we'll see where we go from there.

Larry Cable

it probably bears repeating but a number of people have replaced the rear bar with the thicker GT2 bar which goes a long way to curing the initial understeer ...

10 GT3

My stock settings from the factory were 2nd hole from full soft (out of 4) front and center hole (of 3) rear. I noticed my first trip to the track that the car was fairly neutral, but didn't have as much turn-in as I would like. I shifted the front bar to full soft and turn-in improved quite a bit, more that I would have expected from a single hole adjustment. Keep in mind that everything changed with the 997.2 GT3 from the 997.1: stiffer springs all the way around, different shock valving, different suspension geometry front and rear and different sway bars. The 997.2 is a lot more neutral out of the factory than the 997.1.