screwed (literally) by my dealers service
09-14-2009, 06:01 PM
#16
Still plays with cars.
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Larry, the bolts are SAE 7/16ths (yes SAE even on a German car, it's a standards thing. The dealer messed it up, they should repair it. It is a major safety issue.
As to JB weld... NO! No glue can act like a hardened grade 10 bolt which is more than a half inch in diameter designed to hold a human under forces of 30 G's!!!!
As to JB weld... NO! No glue can act like a hardened grade 10 bolt which is more than a half inch in diameter designed to hold a human under forces of 30 G's!!!!
09-14-2009, 06:21 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Larry, the bolts are SAE 7/16ths (yes SAE even on a German car, it's a standards thing. The dealer messed it up, they should repair it. It is a major safety issue.
As to JB weld... NO! No glue can act like a hardened grade 10 bolt which is more than a half inch in diameter designed to hold a human under forces of 30 G's!!!!
As to JB weld... NO! No glue can act like a hardened grade 10 bolt which is more than a half inch in diameter designed to hold a human under forces of 30 G's!!!!
Will will post what the outcome is, the car is due for a 1 yr service so I am
hoping that the dealer will agree to repair the bolts during the service at
no cost to myself (for the bolt repair that is).
09-14-2009, 06:25 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
this is what one of the bolts looked like ...
when I took it out of the car ...
09-14-2009, 06:28 PM
#19
Still plays with cars.
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Larry it doesn't look *that* bad, chasing the threads with a tap might just do it. You need new bolts obviously. They they have to line the cage legs up properly so they don't strip the bolt again.
09-14-2009, 07:54 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
in for the seat belts they would not go all the way in ... so maybe what you
suggest would cure it ... we'll see!
thanks again!
- larry
09-14-2009, 09:31 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
09-17-2009, 09:46 AM
#23
cross threaded bolt
Don't feel bad. This happens to nearly everyone that has taken out and then tried to reinsert the seat belt bolts.
Simply replace the thread inserts with a new insert called "time certs." Wurth supply in NJ sells the kits. Very reasonably priced. You can do the new insert yourself in about 10 minutes per side.
Once the new insert is placed, then I'd take the advice from the other posts in terms of how to insert your roll bar without cross threading the bolts when they are replaced.
Simply replace the thread inserts with a new insert called "time certs." Wurth supply in NJ sells the kits. Very reasonably priced. You can do the new insert yourself in about 10 minutes per side.
Once the new insert is placed, then I'd take the advice from the other posts in terms of how to insert your roll bar without cross threading the bolts when they are replaced.
09-17-2009, 12:31 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Don't feel bad. This happens to nearly everyone that has taken out and then tried to reinsert the seat belt bolts.
Simply replace the thread inserts with a new insert called "time certs." Wurth supply in NJ sells the kits. Very reasonably priced. You can do the new insert yourself in about 10 minutes per side.
Once the new insert is placed, then I'd take the advice from the other posts in terms of how to insert your roll bar without cross threading the bolts when they are replaced.
Simply replace the thread inserts with a new insert called "time certs." Wurth supply in NJ sells the kits. Very reasonably priced. You can do the new insert yourself in about 10 minutes per side.
Once the new insert is placed, then I'd take the advice from the other posts in terms of how to insert your roll bar without cross threading the bolts when they are replaced.
Thanks for the info about the time certs.
09-17-2009, 03:16 PM
#25
Banned
Speaking of tap sets, I had a problem finding a certain size the other day. What I needed was a tap for 14 mm threads at a 1.5 pitch if I remember correctly (the 14 mm is definetely correct).
Anyway, when I went looking for Metric taps sets, the largest I could find is 12 mm. I also found that a 14 mm bolt is somewhat rare, and after 12 mm they usually go to 16 mm and up.
Anyone point me to a nice metric tap set with larger sizes; mine is too small!
Anyway, when I went looking for Metric taps sets, the largest I could find is 12 mm. I also found that a 14 mm bolt is somewhat rare, and after 12 mm they usually go to 16 mm and up.
Anyone point me to a nice metric tap set with larger sizes; mine is too small!
09-17-2009, 11:08 PM
#28
Race Director
Speaking of tap sets, I had a problem finding a certain size the other day. What I needed was a tap for 14 mm threads at a 1.5 pitch if I remember correctly (the 14 mm is definetely correct).
Anyway, when I went looking for Metric taps sets, the largest I could find is 12 mm. I also found that a 14 mm bolt is somewhat rare, and after 12 mm they usually go to 16 mm and up.
Anyone point me to a nice metric tap set with larger sizes; mine is too small!
Anyway, when I went looking for Metric taps sets, the largest I could find is 12 mm. I also found that a 14 mm bolt is somewhat rare, and after 12 mm they usually go to 16 mm and up.
Anyone point me to a nice metric tap set with larger sizes; mine is too small!
Local hardware stores and "tool" stores probably won't carry what you need.
Look under industrial tool supply in Yellow Pages or google similar in your area.
BTW, based on reading the thread if you go the thread insert route you probably should jack the car up to properly align the holes then drill the hole to the right size for the thread insert, tap the hole, then install the thread insert all with the car properly supported.
If you don't want dealer doing this have you considered locating a race car shop that might be able to help you?
Sincerely,
Macster.
09-18-2009, 06:10 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
MSC will have just about any tap you could think of, and almost always in stock. Manhattan Supply Co, branches across the US. I would try to chase it with a form tap first. This type of tap displaces the metal to form a thread, and often a stronger thread too. You have the correct amount of metal in the hole, just not in the right place. For sure you will need thread lube and patience to do this. Snapping a form tap in the hole would require some major PITA stuff to repair, like getting a drill/tap dis-integrator.
09-18-2009, 06:12 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Almost forgot, some OEM bolts form their own thread as they are fastened. End of the bolt will be sort of trochoidal shaped. Prob have some sort of coating on it too.