BBTurbo

I only do 2 or 3 long distance track days a year, so I chose to buy a simple 18 foot open car trailer. The Mfg is Ringo. Open bottom, plenty of tie down spots. Getting the car on the trailer is a chore. I ned to use the trailer ramps, the aluminum ramps from my storage lift and a 2x12x12 board to get the car on the trailer without the nose hitting. Once I get it up there, I can't open the doors. They miss clearing the fenders by about an 1/8" of an inch. I also can't figure out a good way to tie the car down. There aren't any good grab points under the car. I could probably grab the rear axle, but the sway bar is at risk. I was thinking about using the tire tie downs for the front, but I heard they can knock the alignment off. Any suggestion from Mk I or MK II GT3 owners. I leave for Watkins Glen in 11 days. I need to figure this out soon.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

rmag

In the front I hook the tow straps to the two front jack points and cross them, then just use wheel straps non crossed in the rear on my trailex.

BBTurbo

Thanks, I'll give it a try. Now I just have to find someone who can cut the fenders off and weld them back on a half inch lower.

996FLT6

I have tow hooks mounted underneath engine courtesy of autometrics and use wheel straps for the front. I had an open trailer too so had to climb in/out the window. I have a 6gt3 but I think the tow rings should be mounted in the same way. Mike

rmag

If can't get that done in time, just put down some small pieces 1/4" plywood or the likes on trailer where the car wheels will be. It will raise the car 1/4" and you can get out. (or just climb out the window )

got2go

I have an enlcosed 24' trailer, with a ramp. I take the front spoiler off and drive it in with no issues. I get the car almost on top of the front D rings and secure the car with wheel straps and 3" tie downs front and rear (straight in the front, crossed in the rear). Car in neutral, emergency brake on and I check the tie down tension after the first hour and at every gas stop.

I bought a set of race ramps: http://www.raceramps.com/trailerramps.html
but have only needed them a couple of times when loading on an uneven surface. I've never had any problems and assume that the same would be true for an open trailer. I've towed on trips as far as 1500 miles with no problems with the car moving, or the allignment being affected.

Crazy Canuck

www.raceramps.com

http://www.raceramps.com/trailerramps.html

I used the 67" versions today. Work like a charm.

I use straps through the wheels to tie my car down. Sewn flat loop fed through the wheel and then insert the regular end through the loop, cinch and then feed into a ratchet that is hooked to a D-Ring in the floor. Tighen and pull hand brake. My alignment hasn't changed.

ervtx

1/8" isn't much; try putting more air in the tires and lose some weight

j/k; you should be able to raise the car that much with planks under just one set of wheels. I do this all the time, but like to have at least one set of tires directly on the flatbed (something about the coefficient of friction for plywood vs. tires).

enthusiast

I also prefer wheel straps/tire bonnet straps to secure the car to the trailer, rides on its suspension normally.

Quozl

Most of the guys here in the Porsche club use these or something similar, they work a treat and save you having to crawl under the car. Even the guys racing in the GT3 cup use similar items in their full sized transporters.

TRI-POD LUG-NUT TRAILER TIE DOWNS



Cheers Al

cr207

good luck using that with a center hub. I use the jack points in the front of the car and go straight, in the rear I use the A arm, I also installed the tow hooks to simplify the process and cross in the rear.

NJ-GT

Race ramps TR-5 (67"). I have a pair in boxes ready to ship, and cheaper, never used, as they didn't fit in my SUV. I got another set of custom two pieces ramps from the same company.

Use the four holes in the jack points as hooks for the straps, attach the straps to the trailer in the opposite side and opposite end from the hole used. No need to use straps through the wheels, or the front rear toe hooks. This is the best way to strap any 996/997/986/997.

Use the front toe hook (optional) as a 5th attachement (safer).

TRAKCAR

Mike, I prefer to tie the car down to the frame instead of the wheels.
Look on rennline: http://www.rennline.com/Tow-Hooks-Ti.../products/221/
They have hooks for in the front and rear. They wrok perfect, you may play around with the straps and order them longer or shorter and get the real short ratchets to get them the perfect length, but they will all work. I cross them front and rear, nice and tight and you will never mess up your allignment.

Maybe weld something on the trailer underneath your tires so you can open the door?! If you add some ribs you know exactly where you are and where to stop.

Just rip off the front lip, I =have 2 left ands and it is real easy, I rip it off and put it on each time I drive it in my 44' enclosed trailer, no screws, real easy 5 seconds to take it off and 10 seconds to put it on. If you get the lower CUP lip, it seems a little more flexible and it is even easier.

Sometimes I see the trailer bounce 5-10" in the air off the bumps and it never moved even 1"

Ritesh

Another vote for Race ramps and tie down to the frame. I do that in the front and wheels wraps in the rear.

BBTurbo

All great advice thanks guys. Now I just have to get it all set up and proven out before the Glen in 10 days.