997 GT3 Suspension upgrade?
#1
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997 GT3 Suspension upgrade?
Can I get some feedback on your upgrades?
I want to get more out of my cars ability in the corners. I have decent driving skills
but certainly not getting everything out of the car yet but who does.
I'm try to keep up with my buddy in his Z06. He has the power on me but were about equal in the corners. Although I would like more confidence in the fast sweeping turns. I want to catch him in the turns.
Any recommendations?
Any measurable improvements in lap times with upgraded setups?
I want to get more out of my cars ability in the corners. I have decent driving skills
but certainly not getting everything out of the car yet but who does.
I'm try to keep up with my buddy in his Z06. He has the power on me but were about equal in the corners. Although I would like more confidence in the fast sweeping turns. I want to catch him in the turns.
Any recommendations?
Any measurable improvements in lap times with upgraded setups?
#2
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what tires you running.
you will gain more time going to hoosiers then changing suspension all things equal.
however, for suspension, the easy way is KW and Bilstein both have a kit that wires right in.
or moton and jrz has stuff where you kill of PASM and then install.
you will gain more time going to hoosiers then changing suspension all things equal.
however, for suspension, the easy way is KW and Bilstein both have a kit that wires right in.
or moton and jrz has stuff where you kill of PASM and then install.
#5
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I have been told that the follow monoball upgrade is worth a couple of seconds on a track.
You can get these items from Sharkwerks, Tarett, ERP, GMG etc...
This is the complete monoball upgrade im using for your reference:
(4) Tarett inner lower control arm bearings with monoballs
(2) Tarett front steering rods/toe links with bump steer adjustment
(4) Tarrett solid bushings for the lower control arms outer piece thrush arm
(4) ERP Racing/GMG rear upper monoball control arms
(2) Tarrett front monoball drop links
(2) Tarett rear monoball drop links
TRG toe links
(i also have the GMG front & rear sway bar, with PASM compatable Bilstein B16 damptronic coil overs)
Hope this helps.
Now go take that ZO6 to school!
You can get these items from Sharkwerks, Tarett, ERP, GMG etc...
This is the complete monoball upgrade im using for your reference:
(4) Tarett inner lower control arm bearings with monoballs
(2) Tarett front steering rods/toe links with bump steer adjustment
(4) Tarrett solid bushings for the lower control arms outer piece thrush arm
(4) ERP Racing/GMG rear upper monoball control arms
(2) Tarrett front monoball drop links
(2) Tarett rear monoball drop links
TRG toe links
(i also have the GMG front & rear sway bar, with PASM compatable Bilstein B16 damptronic coil overs)
Hope this helps.
Now go take that ZO6 to school!
Last edited by tcsracing1; 06-17-2009 at 01:43 PM. Reason: spelling mistake
#6
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Agreed. It is more economical in labor to do it all at once.
Start with the links and when you reach 10/10's with them do the *****. Do the ***** when you're ready for motons. All the stuff will be apart . Or do it all at once and be done with it but it will cost about 15k.
5k for the monoballs
1000 for the bones
500 toe links rear
500 for the front kit and
5k for the club sport motons (unless you actually are good enough to use the motorsport ones that are 10k or are nuts like me)
500 motor mounts.
250 for alignment.
Include a fresh set of hoosiers 1400
private track day (depends)
pro coach about 1600 (stanton will fly out to you or wait till he's in NJ for a race) to test and set up or you'll drive yourself crazy and be slower.
Data aquisition 2k +(ideal and essential for 3 and 4 way shocks)
I included labor and just made myself sick. Don't tell my wife I spent like 20k on my suspension
Start with the links and when you reach 10/10's with them do the *****. Do the ***** when you're ready for motons. All the stuff will be apart . Or do it all at once and be done with it but it will cost about 15k.
5k for the monoballs
1000 for the bones
500 toe links rear
500 for the front kit and
5k for the club sport motons (unless you actually are good enough to use the motorsport ones that are 10k or are nuts like me)
500 motor mounts.
250 for alignment.
Include a fresh set of hoosiers 1400
private track day (depends)
pro coach about 1600 (stanton will fly out to you or wait till he's in NJ for a race) to test and set up or you'll drive yourself crazy and be slower.
Data aquisition 2k +(ideal and essential for 3 and 4 way shocks)
I included labor and just made myself sick. Don't tell my wife I spent like 20k on my suspension
#7
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Oh, more damn 30k on the suspension
2k rear control arms
3-7k front uprights
160 springs.
I jumped 5-8 sec per lap (full set up) depending on tires (toyos -4s hoosiers -6s vs slicks -8). A pro can do better of course.
2k rear control arms
3-7k front uprights
160 springs.
I jumped 5-8 sec per lap (full set up) depending on tires (toyos -4s hoosiers -6s vs slicks -8). A pro can do better of course.
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#8
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Lot of good advice above.
But I think, when you talk about "confidence," damping may be a/the primary issue keeping you from wringing the most from the car. I still think the 997 GT3's biggest weakness is body control, which results in unloaded tires and unpredictability. Yes, the car is REALLY good in stock form, really fast, and not the weakest link (see: driver), and yes, we're talking in shades here, but...
I think a damper change and mild setup (bar adjust and align) would be my first move, followed by the pieces suggested by others only after that. Also: like R888s a lot from my limited experience on them.
pete
But I think, when you talk about "confidence," damping may be a/the primary issue keeping you from wringing the most from the car. I still think the 997 GT3's biggest weakness is body control, which results in unloaded tires and unpredictability. Yes, the car is REALLY good in stock form, really fast, and not the weakest link (see: driver), and yes, we're talking in shades here, but...
I think a damper change and mild setup (bar adjust and align) would be my first move, followed by the pieces suggested by others only after that. Also: like R888s a lot from my limited experience on them.
pete
#13
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Maybe the TRAKCAR el cheapo approach
Get a traqmate and analyse where you can find some time?
A Z06 (Stock) should be catchable in the corners, me think
Or just wait on till the Z06 engine goes boom I hear about 15 trak days unless you buy the drysump upgrade kit etc..... (Do a little searching online and you will find.)
Get a traqmate and analyse where you can find some time?
A Z06 (Stock) should be catchable in the corners, me think
Or just wait on till the Z06 engine goes boom I hear about 15 trak days unless you buy the drysump upgrade kit etc..... (Do a little searching online and you will find.)
#14
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Im not sure about stock spring rates however here are some specs on the B16:
Spring rates are as follows:
Front: Main 340 lbs/in - Tender 115 lbs/in
Rear: Main 570 lbs/in - Tender: 115 lbs/in
- All four springs are linear compared to the stock progressive rear, linear front
- The kit comes with helper springs rated at 115#
- Front springs are 50% stiffer (340#)
- Rear springs are as stiff as the stock ones
- Shocks have improved sport mode and normal mode valving
- The kit was tuned at the Nurburgring
- Compatible with the stock camber plates.
- Uses the stock drop links
Spring rates are as follows:
Front: Main 340 lbs/in - Tender 115 lbs/in
Rear: Main 570 lbs/in - Tender: 115 lbs/in
- All four springs are linear compared to the stock progressive rear, linear front
- The kit comes with helper springs rated at 115#
- Front springs are 50% stiffer (340#)
- Rear springs are as stiff as the stock ones
- Shocks have improved sport mode and normal mode valving
- The kit was tuned at the Nurburgring
- Compatible with the stock camber plates.
- Uses the stock drop links