George3

I'm getting ready for the spring track season, beginning with the Zone 2 event at VIR. I was hoping for some suspension setup help...

My car has 18" forged wheels and RA-1 tires (245/305) and a stock suspension. It's pretty much an 80% track car, with little street time. What suspension setups would I want to consider?

* Camber degree adjustment ? (how much)
* Corner balancing ?
* Beefier rear sway bar from 997 GT2 ?
* Anything else ?

Thanks

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jenk12m

i'm sure the more experienced guys will chime in, but i say drive it 1st and then see what you wanna do. that way you can look back and see if there was a lot of under/oversteer, unstable at high speeds, etc. etc.

George3

I forgot to mention that I have tracked the car the latter part of last season... into November '07. The car handles well, but judging by the boards, it can do much better.

I does push alot in hard tight corners, it seems stable on high speed straights, but I wanted to get a feel for some of the "tweaks" that are commonly done.

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doc2s

george what track(s) do you visit ? WGI, LRP?

George3

I never did Lime Rock, but my schedule for this year includes:

VIR
Summit Point, Main / Summit Point, Shenandoah / Summit Point Jefferson
Pocono North / Pocono Long Course
Watkins Glen

I also want to try the new Thuderbolt in NJ and Mid-Ohio.

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doc2s

i have camber set to -2.5FR/-2.1RR, toe FR -0.05deg, RR +0.16deg. per side. with FR toe-out the car is very sensitive at turn-in. i would suggest 0 deg. FR toe to start with. tire wear is fairly even for my diving/tracks.

never done summit point track(s). my plan this year is for the glen, NJ thunderbolt and lightning and LRP.

997gt3north

George,

- The above info is a very good setup for 80% track & 20% street.
- The rear camber at just above -2 will really save the rear tires from cording on the inner edges (when you get to -2.5 or more if you street drive the car it will kill the tires) - it will also help the rear rotate a little better
- If you are willing to make sure your alignment is true every few track sessions, then zero front toe is the way to go with a -2.5 to -2.7 front camber

- for VIR put your GT3 wing up to the maximum attack angle (+8 degrees) as it will make the uphill section safer and faster if you are going for it

- not sure if you have done VIR before, I did it for the first time last year and had a fabulous instructor (things he pointed out to me):
1) turn #3 is faster than you think and trail brake it all the way the apex if you want to be fast
2) #4 trail brake it to rotate the car but don't overly force the car to the left to set up #5 just stay mid track
3) don't force the car to the left to set up #11 but really power through #10 you can gain alot of time here
4) turn in to #16 under acceleration and then trail brake left and then right until the apex of #17 (you will gain huge ground by doing this)

I was probably the first or one of the first 997 gt3s to spin at VIR (april of last year). The mistake I made was with hot and beginning to be slippery tires I did not fully track out on #1 but pinched the turn while giving it gas to try and stay right for #2 and ended up doing a 3 tank slapper and ended up in the infield - moral of the story, the gt3 in that corner wants to get loose under throttle

Paul

George3

Paul-

Wow, great information. Just the kind of stuff I'm looking for. I've never done VIR and your info will be very helpful.

I've never adjusted my wing. What is the stock position normally set from the factory? How does the wing adjust? Do wing adjutments really make a difference?

Where should my sway bar settings be?

George

C.J. Ichiban

yes wing adjustments make a difference, I've got mine set a bit above halfway from full attack

I've got some GMG goodies (solid bushings, toe steer kit, dog bones) and am using their WC gt3 recommended alignment specs.

front camber -2.1
Rear Camber -2.4

front toe out .6
rear toe in either .8 or .9 I can't remember off the top of my head

lowered 10mm at all corners


I love the way my car handles now- no more of that mid corner roll/shift and turn in is way better without getting too much rotation. In short it's very neutral but you can still provoke oversteer with judicious throttle application in 1st and 2nd gear, or with a hint of trail braking. I personally don't worry about rotating the car on exit, that always seems to be easy with porsches. Turn in and stability are the ultimate things I'm going for because in those high speed turns I'd rather have a bit too much grip than not enough. This really allows me to get on the power earlier than other guys in the same car at my local track.

I even set up my cup car on Xbox with these settings...while I'm gone from the car I'm also getting the sword type or blade type sway bars so I'll post a bunch of info on them when applicable.

Larry Cable

note that I think K&W have a nice suspension setup for the GT3/RS now

http://www.kw-suspension.com/en/30_P...e=all&zeile=15

jenk12m

love all the info guys, i will get mine adjusted before i go to VIR with Zone 2

jenk12m

will -2.4 rear camber kill the rears for street driving. or is it that -2.5 mark and above

C.J. Ichiban

2.4 isn't that bad for the rears- the intense settings are more towards and over 3.0. my rears actually have life left after 3700 miles (1000ish at the track) but the fronts were shot due to low speed scrubbers. I like my camber set up the way it is- sway bar is where I will look for additional refinement now.

BobbyC

just got mine aligned and corner balanced...

-2.2 F / -2.0 R
0 toe F / + 16mm R
TRG drop links front and rear
corner balanced and lowered ~ 10mm

first event is at Summit Point in March...will find out how it handles.

C.J. Ichiban

bobby you're gonna notice a difference in the lowering and front camber- now when you have a bit of steering input, it should actually dive and hug into the turn with just a 5-10% lift of the throttle instead of having to use brakes first...enjoy!