Philip in AL

Is is possible to have the system calibrated? Mine reads about 2 lbs too low (slightly better in the front than the rear). Another annoying thing is that the manual list one set of cold tire pressures for ALL tires OEM for the car (29F/33R). I know this can't be right because MPSC's require more pressure than Pirelli P0 Corso's (due to the Corso's stiffer side wall). Anyone have any knowledge in either of these areas. Thanks

Kevinlpl

Mine is off by any where from 1-6 lbs. at different times. they are off by more when tires get hot at the track.

I would be interested in a way to calibrate as well. Currrently they are almost useless. Sometimes at the track they show off by enough that they alert you to a flat tire when I do not have one. I cannot trust them.

C.J. Ichiban

the tire psi thing for me isn't anything more than a general rule- I drop temps to 27 and 28 cold before a track session and it gives me a flat tire warning. I know the dealer or good shop can recalibrate that so it accepts lower psi before giving the ! sign. maybe they can make it more accurate (doubt it)


I find psi to be off by 1-2 between the info screen and good old measuring gauge...but mostly just trust it to see if tires are 30 versus 39 instead of 30-32. it also takes too long to measure, so if you're filling the tires after a track session, make sure you have a gauge and save yourself the time and frustration.

BobbyC

TPMS is PIA. I had mine switched off soon after delivery. Then I wanted it back for track purposes...but the darn thing just keeps throwing off absurd readings and alarms. So I pulled the plug again.

todinlaw

This system is useless to monitor pressure, it good for notice of a flat tire only.

Kevinlpl

How do you disconnect it? is it only serviceable by a tech?

03-turbo911

Kevin, the dealer can do that with the PIWIS.
Glad that it was an option over here!I tried it on another Porsche and didn't like it so it was not specced.

mooty

the pressure monitor is for catastrophic pressure loss. if you use it as if it is a tire pressure gauge..... it's like using a watch with out the second hand trying to time nano second events.

must have PIWIS

1: First you must actually disconnect the TPMS control unit so that the CAN Controller does not continue to recognize it. The control unit is located in the front trunk next to brake fluid reservoir. Remove and unplug the dome light on the cowling plastic. Remove all of the screws that hold this entire plastic panel in. There are a good number on top by the seal and one on each side by the bottom.

2: Now unplug the control unit it is part number 997 618 103 06, Do not remove it. This way you can always just plug it back it and use it again.

3. Reassemble the front trunk again.

4. Hook up the PIWIS tester to the car via the OBD2 port and do a complete check of all the control units.

5. Select "Gateway" and then "Coding" then ""Required Control Units List". This will list all installed CAN units.

6. Now select "Tire Pressure Monitoring System" and change to " Not Installed" and code it, then exit to the main screen again.

The next steps will code your instrument cluster and to do so will require that you have your engine number, so have it handy, you will find out why.

7. Select "Instrument Cluster" and then "Coding" then "Vehicle Variants".

8. Now select your "Model Year" then "Model", "Roof Version", "Country" (02 is for USA, Puerto Rico). The next item will be "Versions" (553 is USA/Canada).

9. Select your "Individual and exclusive equipment" by highlighting each item that would apply such as: 454-Cruise, 023-Silver Colored Gauge faces etc. DO NOT select 423/483 TPM!!!! This is the TPMS for the cluster and must not be highlighted.

10. Move to the next screen and finish the "Audio and Communication " by highlighting what applies to your car.

11. Next will be the "Wheel Size" and finally it will ask about your engine number.

12. Proceed forward and then Code with F8.


That’s it and now TPMS is removed.

340Elise

Mine is very accurate and consistent as long as you apply a delta to the values that it shows. I have gotten very used to the values that it shows when the tires are cold and then when they are warm. This has worked extremely well for me, and it lets me know if a tire is truly off by 1 psi (or more) from its buddy on the other side.

And when I park it outside where one side is in the sun and the other isn't, then it will be about 3 psi higher for both tires on the sunny side. This is only for winter so far, will see what happens in the summer in this situation; is it enough to set off the warning?

I figured I would hate it since it adds weight and complexity to the car, but I have found that it is very useful in providing info on tires that are going my set cold pressures. Mine is a 2008, so maybe they worked out some of the bugs.

mooty

is that "delta" consistent at all temps or just at street temp? if the delta value varies with actual pressure, then you will have to remember a lot of delta value. i rather just use an accurate tire pressure gauge. my tpms had consistent delta at specific temp: delta change is not linear with actual pressure change.

yours must be super accurate.

340Elise

I can see that this would be the case, but I really only have two deltas to consider so far. I have only driven it on the street and it is winter. At cold it shows 24 front and 27 rear (if I remember correctly; I have not driven it much in the past 2 weeks due to snow). Then, after they warm up from regular street driving, they go to 27 front and 30 rear. As for my actual settings with the guage, I have them set at the recommened cold values of 29 front and 33 rear, and it is very possible that the fronts are actually at 30 (I can check them to be sure).

Maybe 3 weeks ago my left rear developed a slow leak of about 1 psi per day, and the TPMS has done an excellent job of tracking the leak in that tire. I will refill it to 34 in that tire since I know it has a leak, and sure enough, it shows 1 psi over the right rear and then starts daily. Of course I have only followed this for about a week, and have not driven it much lately. I need to take the wheel off and see where the leak is coming from, but that is a separate issue.

The system lets me know if the cold values are where they last were and if I need to add air, and it has done a great job of this. It then shows a delta of 3 psi for each tire after warm-up, these values have become very familiar to me.

I still check them with a tire gauge at least every 2 weeks to make sure they are at the cold pressure that I want them at, but this system has done a great job of letting me know if a tire is low.

Kevinlpl

Thanks for the help. I think I will follow your directions or have a tech do it. I am buying track tires and wheels, which will be on the car half the time any way, so there will be less to think about when I remove it. I check my tire pressures all the time with a guage I have found to be very accurate.

It was cool when I got the car, but like some features, I find they don't play out so well with the way I use the car. Thanks again for the lengthy write up. I am sure others will benefit down the road as well.

Philip in AL

Does anyone have any comments on this section of my original post? <<Another annoying thing is that the manual list one set of cold tire pressures for ALL tires OEM for the car (29F/33R). I know this can't be right because MPSC's require more pressure than Pirelli P0 Corso's (due to the Corso's stiffer side wall). Anyone have any knowledge in this area. Thanks>>