BobbyC

Anyone know accurately how many liters of brake fluid does a GT3/GT3RS take? I mean after a total flush...need to order some. Thanks..

eclou

most cars will use about 1 litre or so, depending on whether you are flushing out the slave cylinder/clutch as well which may take another .5L

mooty

i would get 2L just to make sure.
however, sounds like you do or plan to do lots of track days? i buy a box at a time, that's either 10 or 12 liters (motul 600 or AP550). and yes, i need all that in one year (i am paranoid).

Carrera GT

You might call a dealer and check. I'd say you'll need 1l to get it flushed but almost certainly end up opening at least another 250 or 500ml container, which is then junk after a matter of days.

I'd strongly encourage you to go with SRF. Expect to pay $68-$75 per l which is no worse of course that about $16 per 250ml of Motul 600.

Here's a list of dry/wet BPs. SRF is clearly a better product for sustained extreme operation, but if you can plan ahead and buy Motul 600 without paying for it over the counter, it's about half the price and well about the max temps I've seen in PCCBs (around 500-520 deg F.)

Brake Fluid boiling points dry/wet and price per litre (approx quart) :

590 / 518 ___ Castrol SRF $75
536 / 396 ___ ATE Super Blue $10
572 / 284 ___ AP DOT 5.1 $9
572 / 302 ___ AP 551 $12
590 / 410 ___ AP 600 $18
593 / 420 ___ Motul RBF 600 $30


And Moot's recommendation for AP551 makes a lot of sense if you're on a tight budget like he has to keep ... : )

ps. Buying a case of SRF requires a letter from your bank ... :|

khaug

What Carrera GT said!

I have two liters of SRF on order at this time. Why pay $110K for a car and cheap out on the brake fluid? I track my car, and the differential between SRF and ATE ($60/L) just doesn't represent a bargain for me!

Here, the best is only good enough!

frayed

SRF and be one with it, unless you are into flushing your brakes before events.

BobbyC

Thanks guys. I'm a big fan of SRF and have used it past 2 seasons and that's what I plan on...just wanted to know how much to get.

viperbob

More than you think you will need. Always good to have a spare can...

frayed

On a related note, I always found that I couldn't get the best pedal when flushing with a pressure bleeder on BMWs. That is, the best pedal always came from the old fashioned two person flush.

Is this the case on modern porsches?

I've had mixed results with speedbleeder type devices.

BobbyC

Agree. The" 2man" way to do it is best. Also, start with the rear right wheel, bleed inner and outer nipples, flush out all the air bubbles and work your way around the car.

LVDell

Needing to bleed and flush the non-SRF fluids (Motul, Super Blue, etc.) makes the SRF that much more close in price relatively speaking. The operating cost difference is much smaller than the $40-50 a L difference.

mjb

I know SRF is the gold standard (and will probably use it) but I have Motul 600 in my car now and am wondering what the experience of those who have used both is regarding, let's say # DE days between bleed and flush. Has anyone actually experienced fade with Motul but not SRF? Any empirical data?
I'm sure this has been discussed before - but as long as we're here....

eclou

Speedbleeders were a disasterous experiment for me. I have been using GS610 for a few years now and extremely happy. I have also adopted the 1.5 man bleeding technique - I use a pressure bleeder at about 15-20 psi but also goose the brake and clutch manually as well.

frayed

GS610 has grown in popularity, but SRF has better wet BP, which is what matters if you leave your fluid in the car for several months.

eclou

I would imagine than anyone compulsive/competitive enough to run SRF would not be relaxed enough to leave the same fluid in all season.