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Yeah they're a bit pricey. I'm actually just buying these to 3D scan and make slightly modified uprights along with a few other goodies. I found a used set for a good price.
The cup uprights should be simple geometry unlike the OEM uprights which have a 3d surface. Also not sure if any of the bolt patterns match the factory wing or the decklid.
The cup uprights should be simple geometry unlike the OEM uprights which have a 3d surface. Also not sure if any of the bolt patterns match the factory wing or the decklid.
The deck bolt pattern is the same as OE, but the wing sits too high and angled. I'm going to work on a nice template for using the cup uprights with a factory 997.2 RS wing. Simple 3D printed or resin part so you can trim the cup uprights to not look to obnoxious.
The factory uprights look simple but they're very complex. They also have a slight curvature. I have a set of 4.0 RS uprights and decided it would be easier to scan the cup uprights.
Be aware that UV might be a factor with the material of choice. That might not be such an issue if they are painted, but you still don't want to risk losing a wing due to material fatigue and fracture.
Be aware that UV might be a factor with the material of choice. That might not be such an issue if they are painted, but you still don't want to risk losing a wing due to material fatigue and fracture.
The endplates will be machined out of Nylon 6/6 or resin UTR 8 series. Both should withstand high temps. Uprights will be machined out of 7075 or 3D printed out of aluminum, but depends on the cost. I made a set of end plates for personal use. Based on Manthey GT2 RS clue sports with a vent just above the wing blade. No aero done yet. Just a concept I thought looked cool and different. Came out amazing but not cheap.
Last edited by madmurdock; 07-02-2023 at 09:23 PM.
The endplates will be machined out of Nylon 6/6 or resin UTR 8 series. Both should withstand high temps. Uprights will be machined out of 7075 or 3D printed out of aluminum, but depends on the cost. I made a set of end plates for personal use. Based on Manthey GT2 RS clue sports with a vent just above the wing blade. No aero done yet. Just a concept I thought looked cool and different. Came out amazing but not cheap.
Very cool to try something a bit different. I do agree that the taller wing uprights need a matching larger wingplate. I went OEM 4.0 but I like this as well.
Very cool to try something a bit different. I do agree that the taller wing uprights need a matching larger wingplate. I went OEM 4.0 but I like this as well.
Thank you, sir! Your car looks sick! Thanks for sharing the process! Always look forward to updates.
I'll post pics once done. I'll offer these for sale as well, but far from getting everything set up. I also want to test in real life to make sure they last. Also working on a set of 4.0 endplate replicas since these are difficult to obtain these days.
The endplates will be machined out of Nylon 6/6 or resin UTR 8 series. Both should withstand high temps. Uprights will be machined out of 7075 or 3D printed out of aluminum, but depends on the cost. I made a set of end plates for personal use. Based on Manthey GT2 RS clue sports with a vent just above the wing blade. No aero done yet. Just a concept I thought looked cool and different. Came out amazing but not cheap.
Nice prototypes. Have you considered adding adjustments in your new upright like the Cup uprights offer?
Re: manufacturing, I don't see a huge benefit to using 7075 or 3d printing. The geometry doesn't look too complex and can be done on a 3 axis. I'd imagine the printed part is going to need some cleanup as well?
I also listed all the oem part numbers of all the pieces down to the bolts. If you want to add the .2 cup end plates to the .2 rs wing, they will need to be modified as well.
With the modified cup uprights, the wing is 11cm (4.3 inches) higher at the mounting points and 8.4cm (3.3 inches) further back with relation to the stock wing
The cup wing end plates increase the effectiveness of the wing tremendously (they are larger in surface are and have most of the area under the wing). New holes are drilled and countersunk for the Anhedral wing location (in order to mount them in the correct location with relation to leading and trailing edge as well as height on wing). The original holes are filled.
I also adjusted the wing end plates up 10mm as I added a 10mm gurney flap to the edge of the wing.