Bxstr

I need to do more research to confirm whether or not it is. Thought I read that at one point but I may have not been thinking of it right.

my first 911

It is true which is why I went with Carnewal.

ljmartyre

The Valvetronic does not remember. It defaults to open. Simply turn the key to accessories before starting your car, hit the button. There is a very subtle, but audible “pop” to know the valves are closed.

Installation of the Valvetronic controller is so simple and easy, with the ability to sync it to your home link button as well. If you’re not driving your car for days or weeks I prefer to know they are going to be in the open position vs wondering what I last had them set to.

f50nut

I had a very similar issue. Turned out to be a small tear in the rubber hose that connects the hard vacuum line to the valve. I replaced both rubber hoses and the issue improved slightly but the valves still seemed a bit sluggish to me. Then just replaced the whole set of lines (which is sold as one unit) and valve operation is snappy again.

JB911

I just did an oil change, and while reseting the service interval with Piwis I saw the exhaust solenoid error code-it's there because my Carnewal valve controller creates that code, because the box is essentially a module. So for those who get it and have their car serviced, make sure a tech knows it's been installed-

JB

Bxstr

Got this resolved. Solenoid in the engine bay fixed the issue. Remember that upon startup the valves would open and then I could see them actually close when turning off the car, so the actuators external to the exhaust and the valves internal to the exhaust seemed to be working.

Steps that I took:
1) remove the connector on the bottom of the unit
2) pulled the unit (up) off the metal bracket
3) using the Oetiker clamp removal tool, clipped off the right side Oetiker clamp and removed the hose, this was the easier of the two
4) spent about 30 minutes trying to get the top clamp off using the Oetiker clamp removal tool. Ended up resorting to a set of Dewalt snips. Was realizing the Oetiker clamp removal tool just had too big of a handle and also didn't have the smaller, sharper blades I needed to effectively removed it. Then removed the hose
5) transferred over the rubber insulator that goes on the metal bracket from the old unit to the new unit. Note that the new unit that I purchased from Pierburg is all black, the original unit (dated 2006) I took out was gray and black. Not sure if the new Genuine Porsche part is gray like the old one, or black, but if you're going for 100% originality you may want to go for the Genuine unit. Just keep in mind the price difference, $60 vs $300+. I also normally would have spent the $30 to replace the rubber insulator while I was in there, but wasn't even sure if this was going to solve the issue so I didn't. But I'm a fan of replacing all hardware whenever I'm doing a job like this.
6) put new 14.5 Oetiker clamps on the hoses and connected the hoses to the unit. I started with the top one, crimped that one. Then did the right side one. If you're like me, you won't be happy with the first time you crimp one of these and how it looks, so I recommend practicing on one prior to having it in the car. There is such little room to work. I ended up removing the clamp and putting a new one on. I also wanted the orientation in the same way as factory. I would crimp it down a bit at a time to make sure that the orientation was staying as I wanted it. I'll also note that the Oetiker clamps I put on do not match factory 100%, but they're incredibly close and I couldn't find Oetiker clamps on any of the Porsche diagrams.
7) put the rubber insulator onto the metal bracket
8) connected the wiring harness
9) went for a drive and confirmed all is working now
10) enjoy your car

Parts used:

Pierburg solenoid: 722687390 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...urg-078906283a

Rubber insulator (which I didn't replace): 94860516701

Oetiker clamps (you need the 14.5 size and this was the only kit that I could find with them at a reasonable price):

Tools used:
Oetiker clamp remover:
Oetiker clamps crimper (get the front and side jaw, I forget which I used but I'd rather have the flexibility):
Dewalt snips (same model I used): https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-7...0275/203040533

bweSteve

I actually thought that the valves opened when the car gets shut off & they lose vacuum. So you are saying that (with a stock setup), yours would close upon shutdown, and then they were still closed when you first turn the key, but then you would hear them open immediately?

When my car was original & stock (this was PRIOR to me adding the Carnewal system), .... so after I shut my car off, & it would take 30 seconds or so & i would hear the valves click which was opening them. So when I would start the car, the car was immediately loud, but would then close the valves for warmup.

of course now its a different setup & with Carnewal memory, I keep my valves closed for a nice quiet initial startup.

Bxstr

Steve - you're right, I'm not sure what I meant when I wrote the above since it was a year ago, apologies for the late reply, but they are open upon startup, then close immediately.

Another update for 2024:
Hi Everyone,
Got my car out of storage this year and realize my valves weren't working properly. My car was in at the dealer for other work and I very much trust the couple of techs that I use up there so I had them work on it for me. The solenoid I was very comfortable with but crawling under the car for the valves, I'm not comfortable with.

They initially diagnosed it as the passenger side valve as having gone bad and not holding vacuum. Mine were original on both sides, so I just had them replace them in pairs. Glad I got that done, now they're nice and new looking. However, that still didn't entirely fix the issue as now instead of being stuck open like it was previously, it was stuck closed. So their tech checked the solenoid which I just installed last year and it had gone bad after just a year. So I had them replace it with the genuine unit. The tech and I discussed how the Pierburg was a different color than the Genuine unit, so in a way I'm glad that I got the Genuine one back in there. There also can be situations where the OEM and Genuine part do have different levels of quality. For instance, I've heard of this being the case with coolant expansion tanks, but cannot confirm or deny with personal experience on that.

​​​​​​​