Wilder

2010 GT3, 11k miles. I plan to keep the car for a long time. I also intend to track it. Therefore, taking on lifetime maintenance stuff. Here's my list so far. Please add anything I may be missing. Also, please let me know what's overkill.

• Not just pin but replace all the hoses, hose rings, elbows etc.
• Replace coolant expansion tank
• Replace thermostat
• Replace water pump
• Replace pulley and harmonic damper
• Replace LSD (Guard), upgrade to LWF and clutch from 4.0

Bxstr

Hi Julien,
You have an excellent list so far. To clarify, do you plan to go with the Dundon (made by ATI) dampener? Also be sure your shop uses the Sharkwerks elbows. When I had the lines/engine drop done on my car I also had plugs, coils, fuel filter, drive belt, front main seal and rear main seal. Many will say that if the seals aren't leaking, don't do them, but I had them done anyway. I also had all fluids flushed at the same time, but that is sort of implied with the work you're having done since you'll be doing your LSD and the coolant will all be coming out of the car during the pinning process. I think power steering fluid will need to be replaced also when the engine is dropped. So really it just leaves engine oil. You may also want to consider doing fresh engine mounts, if it was me I'd probably just go with stock mounts.

Best of luck, glad you're already getting the maintenance done, that's a great way to start off ownership.

Elliotw44

Power steer pump and lines is a good thing to look at as well when the engine is out.

Wonderdan

Avid I have a new set of SW elbos sitting around here, I’ll drop em 50% plus shipping if you want.

New shifter cables and numeric is good to do while your under there and a nice DSC

I know you already know all this but with only 11k miles I would take it to the track and try it “as is” for a day before doing that exhaustive list. It’s still a very nice DE and date night car without some of those changes.

Namely the LWFW/4.0 does add cabin noise and rattling to an otherwise “solid sounding” car. It also proves to make it substantially easier to get DME hits as I showed in another post. I would test the flywheel speed in action and see if it’s something you really want first… just my 2 cents.

I mean I know my vote, but I also know switching to my RS and doing all the things you mention, I made a car my wife enjoyed going on dates in to a car she now shakes her head at lol.

Bxstr

Great callout, specifically on the lines. If they leak, some require engine out service.

Maverick11

Good time to upgrade engine and tranny mounts too if that is on your to-do list

Wilder

Yes to the Dundon dampener. Thanks for the heads up on the Sharkweks elbows. I actually wanted them to do the work but if I schedule in now they won't take me in until next summer. And yes, makes sense to have a service done while the engine is out. Good call on the engine mounts, thank you.

Thank you. Added to the list.

Thank you for the offer. I'll take them!

DSC is in the mod list. Haven't done enough homework on cables and numeric.

Mostly, thank you for your thoughts. There's nothing more I want than to just jump in the car and enjoy it but it will be mainly for track duty and the coolant failure has my attention. I can't drop the engine on a 13 y/o car that has sat most of it's life and not take care of other stuff while I'm in there. But I understand your point about how far to go. Moding is an art that requires temperance. The car is mostly for track but as you know, things change and I'm still weighing how far to go.

Thank you. Added to the list!

rafter75

Does the numeric shifter make a big difference for a car that’s driven on the street and spirited canyon drives, or would just the numeric shift cables be worth the swap and keep the stock GT3 shifter?

Wonderdan

it’s subjective… I also have it weighted to make it feel a little heavier In reality it probably doesn’t change much of anything, but I like the shorter throw. The mechanical sound/feel when your going around town either can annoy you or make you feel like your in a racier car. On the track where you have no time to think of anything except your next turn it’s a more precise shift.

im sure lots of guys are more opinionated about it than me.

Burren

Those are all the things done on my car, plus securing the cam actuator bolts, just in case. You should be pretty well sorted for a long time with that work.

Wilder

Thank you. I'll add that to the list.

rafter75

Question, if you are securing the cam actuator bolts, would you need to switch to the Dundon harmonic damper? Also, I may be wrong but isn't the 997.2 GT3 factory harmonic damper the same as the one used on the 3.8 RS and 4.0?

Maverick11

Believe the lwfw cars have different crank pulleys. None of the cars have have what would be described as a harmonic damper the way I understand it. I put the dundon damper on my .1 RS for piece of mind, more critical for .2s especially .2s with lwfws.

Also did the numeric + cables at the same time. Shifter feels much more solid, big difference from stock. I like it, freshening up cables also a piece of mind thing for me as factory ones will break at some point. I didn’t pick up on any new noise from the cables but my car already makes extra noise due to stiffer trans and engine mounts that were done when the pipes were done.

Burren

Securing the cam actuator bolts eliminates the need for the harmonic damper.

Wilder

Okay...

Found an indie shop that has certified Porsche mechanics and bought the parts today:

• Coolant hose set with water pump, thermostat, and coolant expansion tank. Got the elbows from @Wonderdan earlier, thank you!
• LWFW and 4.0 clutch with RS pulley
• Guard LSD
• Rear toe kit and rear links
• DSC controller

Engine mounts, seals, power steering pump and lines will all be decided when the engine is out. I'll wait to drive the car a bit more before I decide if I want to upgrade to the numeric shifter.

Thanks everyone for the push down the proverbial slope!