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I just had my water pump and t stat replaced last week. Engine does not need to come out. It's a pricey fix none the less as labor today is running plus/minus $200/Hr. It'll likely cost close to $2K all in, that includes new parts, new hoses, gaskets, new serpentine belt, flushing out all the old coolant and replacing with new. It's a bit tricky to get to the pump thus the time it takes, but this needs to happen as the water pumps last about 50K miles or so.
BTW, my coolant lines have been pinned, same fix SW does.
Last edited by christallon; 08-01-2022 at 03:11 PM.
I might do that. I do almost all the work myself. A friend of mine owns a Porsche shop and I will ask him if he has the workshop manual for the GT3. That might help :-)
Thanks for help. Heres a better video from the leak. And also a picture from top of the engine. Can see some dry coolant on the hose to the waterpump at the elbow there.
Fix it right. These cars and 10-15 years old. Pull the motor, pin the coolant lines, replace all the hoses, new water pump, do plugs and coil packs while you’re at it. Good time to do the clutch too since motor is out. And be worry free for years.
if you’re trying to be cheap this isn’t the right car for you
As mentioned, I have the exact same leakage on my 2007 GT3. I've looked into how to change the water pump and I have ordered the Pierburg (same as OEM) pump. In two weeks time I will put the car on a lift, remove the rear bumper and rear exhaust box. You can then see the waterpump and there are cut outs in the engine carrier and you should be able to replace the pump. If needed I will drop the engine slightly, but I think its not really necessary.
Replace the pump, gasket and multibelt while I have it off and that will be it. I will inspect the hoses and replace all the hose clamps.
As mentioned, I have the exact same leakage on my 2007 GT3. I've looked into how to change the water pump and I have ordered the Pierburg (same as OEM) pump. In two weeks time I will put the car on a lift, remove the rear bumper and rear exhaust box. You can then see the waterpump and there are cut outs in the engine carrier and you should be able to replace the pump. If needed I will drop the engine slightly, but I think its not really necessary.
Replace the pump, gasket and multibelt while I have it off and that will be it. I will inspect the hoses and replace all the hose clamps.
Should be good to go after that :-)
Great Good luck and please take some photos and post it here. Maybe also change the thermostat at the same time?
Great Good luck and please take some photos and post it here. Maybe also change the thermostat at the same time?
I don't see why I would change the thermostat. The water temp is always in 80 degrees, no colder and not any hotter.
I firmly believe that if it isn't broken, do not fix it. I understand the "while you are in there" stuff, but this is in a different location all together. Also, new parts that are made today usually are lower in quality then they used to be!
I agree, to a point. The T Stat is right there, so after 50K miles it's an easy and relatively cheap replacement while the pump is being replaced, especially if you're doing the work yourself. Access is always the issue, so why not do it while you have clear access to it?
Originally Posted by DLK
I don't see why I would change the thermostat. The water temp is always in 80 degrees, no colder and not any hotter.
I firmly believe that if it isn't broken, do not fix it. I understand the "while you are in there" stuff, but this is in a different location all together. Also, new parts that are made today usually are lower in quality then they used to be!