Bxstr

Correct Steve. Edited my posts. After I wrote that, I was wondering if the "Resolution" was going to be unclear on whether it was actually corrected or if that's just what the dealer did. The problem is actually fixed and I've had a chance to put some miles on the car. That is on top of the fact that prior it didn't even need to be driven for there to be the small leak.

bweSteve

Thanks for this whole thread Bxstr. We all like to keep an eye on things, and this is a good reminder that even something as mundane as the threads on a bleeder screw can fail.

It also prompted me (back when you first created this thread) to pop the rubber caps off mine. I was actually surprised how dirty they were under there (especially since my car took 299 points out of 300 at last years National Concours). I had never actually even thought to pop them off & clean around the tip since they just looked so clean around the perimeter of the screw,... & they are PCCB's, which inherently stay so clean to begin with.

I also just DIY'd a full fluid drain & replace for my entire braking system, the clutch master & slave cylinders, as well as the ABS system (this was in my 1991 911). Using a vacuum bleeder system is such a clean way to do the job. Not a drop was spilled. The bleeder screws cracked free & then re-tightened with no problems,... but I'll keep an eye on any leaks from the threads there too.

Thanks again

ngng

Glad you were able to get it sorted. I've never heard of sealant on bleeder screws, that's new to me. "Loctite" often raises eyebrows since generally synonymous with red/blue threadlocker, but they make tons of products.

Bxstr

I had my friend who has a 997.1 Turbo with PCCB’s check his and they were dry. I do remember the new calipers I purchased had a 2018 or 2019 build date on them, so it looks like Porsche was making batches of them still at some point. Could have been that my original set were faulty due to someone over tightening and then this new set had tolerances that were slightly off during manufacturing. Since it seals with the cone shape at the bottom of the bleeder, even the slightest variation would technically cause fluid to come up around the threads. Again, we’re talking extremely small amounts of fluid. Amounts that any normal person would never notice.

I also believe that this is likely a problem that more cars do exhibit, but most people just don’t go to the lengths to notice these small issues and then for the few people that do notice, just wouldn’t correct them. There’s a long list of things I’ve noticed from over analyzing 997’s over the years. This is probably just one of those strange nuances.

Bxstr

Agreed and if it wasn’t their master tech that suggested it to me, I probably wouldn’t have been as interested in doing it and instead would have ordered two new rear calipers. But when someone has a certain level of experience, I try to put faith in their recommendations and this is one of those cases since I truly do trust him. All I do is research information online and try and figure out what sounds reasonable or not, whereas he has the actual day to day expertise.

His thought was that the thread sealant would be a good second layer of protection and that the bleeders alone may have fixed the problem. My thought was with the caliper being aluminum and the bleeder being steel (I think), that the caliper would be the likely faulty part, since those threads would be more likely to be damaged being the softer metal. Either way, a thread sealant and not a thread locker seems fine for this application and I’m glad there’s no more leaks. We’ll see what happens during the next brake bleed and whether or not there needs to be a new application of sealant. I’m thinking not, but I’ll likely have him do the brake bleed so that he can check for any leaks after while it’s there.