Woo-woo-woo sound from rear
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Woo-woo-woo sound from rear
When driving at constant speed at around 90 mph (150 kph) in my 997.2 GT3 RS 3.8 I hear a deep woo-woo-woo sound coming from the rear. The interval between each woo is about 0.75 seconds. The sound disappears if I drive at 70 or 110 mph. What could it be? Wheel bearing?
#2
Rennlist Member
I'm getting that sound on my Audi S3, and ordered new wheel bearings. I confirmed it on youtube videos in my case. Sucks that it happened with less that 40K miles but I did drive through a flooded area a few months ago and the water came up to the hubs.
Are you hearing this while coasting in neutral? If you have hills where you live, I'd coast with the engine off and see what it sounds like-
JB
Are you hearing this while coasting in neutral? If you have hills where you live, I'd coast with the engine off and see what it sounds like-
JB
#3
wheel bearings
#4
Rennlist Member
Thank you, I’ve been waiting years to bring this video out from hiding… this is def it
Last edited by Wonderdan; 02-06-2022 at 10:11 PM.
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#5
Rennlist Member
Bubb Rubb is a legend in these parts, wonder what happened to him.
Glad the whistle tips went the same way as spinners...
Glad the whistle tips went the same way as spinners...
Thank you, I’ve been waiting years to bring this video out from hiding… this is def it
https://youtu.be/zUXow3d3-b0
https://youtu.be/zUXow3d3-b0
The following users liked this post:
ljmartyre (02-07-2022)
#7
• If you hit the brakes does it change the noise?
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#8
Could also come down to worn out/old tires.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
#11
So the "WOO - WOO - WOOO" sound comes from the rear when driving your GT3RS around 90 mph, but disappears when you drive below 70 or over 110 mph.
Not to worry, it's probably just the police
Not to worry, it's probably just the police
Last edited by Johnb55; 02-08-2022 at 09:20 PM.
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WP0ZZZ (02-11-2022)
#12
Rennlist Member
I just got my front wheel bearings/hubs for my Audi S3-bearings are already pressed in, I should be able to remove the hubs at home and bolt them back in place. $97 each plus shipping and that doesn't seem so bad.
With the GT3, it's quite a complex task, removing the wheel carrier and control arms, and even then you'll need to have the bearings pressed out then pressed in :
So a competent shop, most likely a dealer will probably be needed. Notice the details on the magnetic side of the bearing. There's a test card to make sure it's in the correct direction-a good point to bring up to a service advisor to make sure this step isn't overlooked.
Considering that I've seen so many shops and people doing things wrong, starting with removing Center Locks with the car on the ground (that never should be done, "cracking them loose"with the wheels on the ground) There are many videos on youtube of people doing this instead of with the car up in the air, as it must be-
And to top it off, I imagine after removing all the suspension components it might be required to get a wheel alignment afterwards-
Best,
JB
With the GT3, it's quite a complex task, removing the wheel carrier and control arms, and even then you'll need to have the bearings pressed out then pressed in :
So a competent shop, most likely a dealer will probably be needed. Notice the details on the magnetic side of the bearing. There's a test card to make sure it's in the correct direction-a good point to bring up to a service advisor to make sure this step isn't overlooked.
Considering that I've seen so many shops and people doing things wrong, starting with removing Center Locks with the car on the ground (that never should be done, "cracking them loose"with the wheels on the ground) There are many videos on youtube of people doing this instead of with the car up in the air, as it must be-
And to top it off, I imagine after removing all the suspension components it might be required to get a wheel alignment afterwards-
Best,
JB
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
With the GT3, it's quite a complex task, removing the wheel carrier and control arms, and even then you'll need to have the bearings pressed out then pressed in :
So a competent shop, most likely a dealer will probably be needed. Notice the details on the magnetic side of the bearing. There's a test card to make sure it's in the correct direction-a good point to bring up to a service advisor to make sure this step isn't overlooked.
So a competent shop, most likely a dealer will probably be needed. Notice the details on the magnetic side of the bearing. There's a test card to make sure it's in the correct direction-a good point to bring up to a service advisor to make sure this step isn't overlooked.
I had never heard about those integrated bearings + ABS sensors. Thanks for sharing the information.
#14
Rennlist Member
Imagine having to heat the carrier to 100 degrees Celsius(212 F)
One could remove the carrier at home and take it somewhere to be pressed out. I doubt a dealer would let you bring it in, it would have to be a competent indie shop-
Also, parking brake has to be loosened and removed (inside the car, console removed to reach parking brake cables)
It's quite a bit of work-
JB
One could remove the carrier at home and take it somewhere to be pressed out. I doubt a dealer would let you bring it in, it would have to be a competent indie shop-
Also, parking brake has to be loosened and removed (inside the car, console removed to reach parking brake cables)
It's quite a bit of work-
JB
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Imagine having to heat the carrier to 100 degrees Celsius(212 F)
One could remove the carrier at home and take it somewhere to be pressed out. I doubt a dealer would let you bring it in, it would have to be a competent indie shop-
Also, parking brake has to be loosened and removed (inside the car, console removed to reach parking brake cables)
One could remove the carrier at home and take it somewhere to be pressed out. I doubt a dealer would let you bring it in, it would have to be a competent indie shop-
Also, parking brake has to be loosened and removed (inside the car, console removed to reach parking brake cables)
In the past, I've used the kitchen oven to heat up parts. It's got a pretty good electronic temperature control and can keep steady sub-100C temperatures for a long time (e.g. to make yogurt). To press the bearing, I have a 20-ton press which makes it relatively effortless.