XrussianX

Wondering if anyone else has experienced this. Had it happen twice about 6 months apart. Soon as I’d fill up 92 at the gas station the light would go on. Burn up half or so tank and refill more 92 and after 5 mins of driving the light went away. Both times the same thing happened. I see the car is supposed to get 93 but in Washington state we have 92. The engine runs perfectly fine the entire time.

FLT6SPD

Click the gas cap a couple times? If not that would throw a light.

XrussianX

I make sure the cap clicks 5 times before I drive. I know this could cause a light

Sword_of_the_Spirit

Have you reset the ECU at all? Those codes usually don’t stay logged unless it is directly related to the fuel cap if I recall. If you do try a reset, make sure you hit the brake and remove any excess “power” in the system. I don’t think the ecu’s are as touchy (advanced timing like that of other boxer manufacturers). If so, easy on it so it can adapt again.

another question. Stations independent of each other?

XrussianX

Did not do any resets, just ignition off and back on. And the gas stations were different. To me it felt directly connected to the fuel because it would pop right as I would turn the car on. And goes away after more fuel would get added from another location. 2 times in 18 months and I drive a lot. Not really an issue I suppose

pissedpuppy

shouldn't be - in CA you cannot even get 92 and I never had a problem

Bxstr

Yeah, CA only has 91, so the octane itself shouldn't be an issue. Best fuel is from a top tier station that goes through a lot of premium fuel so it's always fresh. Also, never fill up if a tanker is there. That brings all of the sediment and water from the bottom and mixes it around.

Spyerx

YES. I had this happen. I had some 100 octane i got at the track and later in the day the car started mis firing and flagged a CEL. Codes indicated misfires. Was repeatable when lugging car even on street. I changed all plugs/coils, MAF, cleaned TB, etc. Removed tune back to factory. Codes continued. Refilled tank with fresh fuel: GONE.

UGH. oh well, plugs were due anyway...

MC 968CS

I’ve had this too - even had the light go away when changed the fuel - but it turned out it was the coils starting to fail in mine. Worked it out eventually.

JB911

I drove the car down to a near empty tank to activate the low fuel warning as suggested by Bruce Canepa in one of his videos. But I got a check engine light yesterday. What a coincidence... No codes on durametric but I did a clear all fault codes on modules just in case.
Post #4 suggests resetting the ECU. I saw that option on the Durametric software but wouldn't know the first thing about it. What happens when you reset ECU, and is it done with the engine running?
I'm doing a drive to burn some gas right now and will top off at a different station and see what happens.
Also, I put new plugs in a while back but did not replace coils yet, so I'll plan on doing that soon.

Also debating between getting a PIWIS 3 or a Launch Tech Torque for maintenance/diagnostics

JB911

I also replaced fuel cap last year, and just hit 25K miles

XrussianX

She’s a top tier athlete in the automotive world. I guess a bit of spoiled juice makes her pop off a bit. About to crack 35k miles..... Still tap on the dash after nice section of back roads. Desire no other

chiffonade

the only way to tell is to get an OBD2 reader on amazon and pull the code. they're like $10. this has happened to me before and it turned out to be a failing catalytic converter.

Sword_of_the_Spirit

You'll want to reset while the vehicle is off. I would not attempt either through Porsche tool or disconnecting the battery and eliminating any remaining electricity in the system while the motor is running. You might not like the result.

The ecu will need to adapt. I don't have a tool to see how aggressive the values are at reset. But either way, an idle adapt and part throttle for the first few ignition cycles. Time is irrelevant except for the idle. Usually the common rule is 8-10min. While running, it's normal oil temp that you'll target. Disregard the coolant value as that is always the first to stabilize. But the vehicle is looking for complete cycles and that is what will allow for proper trims.

As you should know, there is a window at which the ecu is set to operate timing wise for fuel. You can run 100 oct or more, but will your vehicle utilize it? Probably not. Same with poor fuel less than 91. You'll do more damage on the lower end of oct scale then higher as preignition is the ultimate killer. The ecu is not like the air coolers that are more flexible with head temp (hence they can run higher oct and respond well progressively). That's from the factory. Tuning is most ideal though to capture what kind of fuel and driving style.

MC 968CS

I really doubt this is fuel.....