Maybe good idea to change the clutch rubber line that goes to slave as well? These degrade over time and with the extreme heat from your engine/gearbox I'd imagine it's degrading faster than usual. Not saying it's the sole cause here but may be a contributing factor?

 

Pressure plate not releasing. Heat exaggerates issue. As above. Stop car and i bet it shifts into gears fine. Been there done that.

 

Yes, as I said in the first post, engine off and slips through the gears beautifully !

So why would the pressure plate not be releasing (it is the 764 Sachs PP) what is the cause, which components are failing there ?

TIA

 

Dunno. I’ve had 4 rs40 pressure plates. One in my car now is lasting
i drove car hard but clutch wear was very minimal. All components looks new including pressure plate
replaced that. Problem solved.
basically for me the issue would manifest itself after a track session
park car and could not get it out of gear while engine running.
no issues on track
suspected heat soak and it was the pressure plates.....

anyway. I’d suspect your clutch or pp are done. Likely not inside the trans.

 

I had a very similar problem in a car with shifter cables as well - turned out to be my throwout bearing. Ended up doing clutch, pp, throwout because "while you're in there." At first it was only when it was hot, but got to the point where with the car running I could not get any car, but switched off it was no problem.

So just going to echo what others are saying, likely something in the clutch / release mechanism. Sorry mate

 

Appreciate the help guys, looks like another bloody clutch...... they seem to be lasting about 7000 miles

 

While you are in there, you might as well upgrade to the 4.2L.

 

well, better than a trans rebuild :-)

get it checked out but your description seems like clutch....

 

I use the Sachs Motorsport 487 pressure plate. It is a beefed up heavy duty version the 997GT3RS 4.0 pressure plate with more clamp force. It is not riveted but bolted instead just like the 4.0 PP for increased burst capacity. I've been using the 487 pressure plate for several years of track abuse without any issues at 700+ ft.lbs of torque. It's identical to the 4.0 PP except that the steel straps are thicker. I am using it in conjunction with a 996Cup clutch disc and flywheel but you can use the OEM 4.0 disc instead for street use. With the 4.0 disc it drives like stock.

 

^^^ How's leg effort with above?

 

Common sense would dictate that it’s a little heavier but it feels perfectly normal to me and I honestly can't really discern much if any difference between the 487 and the stock 4.0 PP when used with the 4.0 disc. Basically feels just like any GT3 clutch to me.

 

Trying to sort my difficultly in slotting into 1st and reverse gears when the car is hot I have changed out master cylinder, slave cylinder, fluids, hoses,,,,,finally I managed to get hold of the 487 plate which Powdrhound recommended.
Just picked the car up and whilst the weather is quite cool here I did get the car up to full operating temp and lo and behold it is slotting into 1st and reverse much much easier, I think the 487 has nailed it.

Could you explain why it has cured my sticking problem, I posted pics below and my shop says it is to do with this bolted spring plate bit which is different to the 764 riveted piece, an explanation I can understand would be gratefully accepted

upload image to search

 

The whole 487 PP assembly is bolted around its perimeter, not just the straps. I have seen a few of the 764 PP slightly warped in the past which I believe may contribute to the issues you experienced especially when hot when this may be exaggerated causing the PP not to fully release. I would not recommend the 764 PP for hard track use based on this. Out of curiosity, check your old 764 PP for run out. With that said, I have since gone to a different clutch but when I used the 487PP/Cup disc/Cup LWFW, it was 100% flawless under severe track use. You should not have any issues.

Here is how it shifted in 100F weather during 30 minute sessions. Pretty effortless but that’s mostly due to the low inertia 4-puck Cup disc. With the heavier sprung 4.0 disc it would be a bit clunkier. Gearbox temp was showing stabilized at 230F. I use solid engine and gearbox mounts also...