Williamsf1

Just like the title says, list me out a complete suspension package of what you would buy money no object just the best changes to the GT3

currently looking at EXE-TC dampers however there are so many other parts to change or consider so help me out!!

ngng

a local suspension expert + whatever they recommend. you can put a 15k suspension the car with a million adjustments and make the car handle worse than OEM.

Williamsf1

Thanks, I know what settings to run, more so interested in brands of parts and actual parts people have swapped out to....

bmwtye

Setup I had

- KW Motorsport 3 ways with e-motion engineering rear shock adapter
- PMNA rsr lower control arms
- PMNA rsr compression forks
-PMNA cup front and rear toe steer arms
- PMNA adjustable dog bones
- power grid drop links
- gt2 rear sway bar

JG 996T

Cup parts, and tractive. Stated pPurpose willhep the rennexperts.
like, Best setup for Nurburgring lap time.

Williamsf1

ok good info so far!!! keep it coming!!!

HarmonyJim

I have a 2007 RS that I have tried to modify in an intelligent manner. Along the philosophical path of 'improving the things that corporate economics compromised''. Tractive/DSC (shocks & controller) along with eliminating the rubber bushings in the suspension components (I utilized the full RSS Tramac Series). Throw in some of RSS's semi-solid engine mounts, firm up the feeble trans bushings (don't go psycho). GT2 sway bars front and rear. This is a heck of a good start - at a cost of about $14K. Fresh PS4s along with a good alignment - this might be more critical than anything. Tom Chan at TPC can steer you right, supply the parts, and his advise is worth a small fortune.

Protocav

Many different responses here, but I love my setup which is great on the track and still comfortable on the street.

MCS 2-way adjustable coilovers (an update to JRZ technology - look into it)
Everything available form the Tarett catalog which removes rubber and adds monoballs or rod ends and adjustability. This includes the control arms, upper strut/shock mounts, all link arms, etc.

Tom@TPC Racing

The Ultimate Package is subjective to road conditions, usage, and mostly to the driver's personal preference on feel, brand, and expectations. "My" Ultimate Package on my GT3 is for 80% track/20% street, its as follows:

DSC Sport controller- A suspension controller with fully active damping control algorithm to optimize road compliance and track performance. Since the car came with 2-mode PASM, I prefer to maintain this format and maximize the uses of it by replacing the OEM PASM controller with a much more advanced and user programmable controller.

DSC Tractive coilover with front and rear monoball top mounts and 670/1000 in-lb springs- The most advanced electronic Spool Valve dampers available on the market, ultra-wide dynamic damping range, 6-millisecond reaction time to commands and reacts to changing commands during mid-stroke. These dampers work in concert with DSC Sport controller to control vehicle weight distribution to changing conditions on street and track in real time. The 670/1000 springs are more track-focused then the previous 390/720 that I had before. The 390/720 springs were incredibly comfortable on street and give up very little for track performance on R-comp tires. These dampers have 6 years, 40+ track days, have not had a single issue.

TPC Racing 29mm/22.5mm adjustable sway bars- I like a super stiff front bar for deep trail braking. I basically smooth dance with the car during corner entry on the TPC 29mm diameter " thick blade" front bar.

TPC Racing adjustable rear toe links w/ bump steer setting- Many GT3 drivers know that adjustable rear toe links are essential on this car, the TPC Racing version has monoballs on inner and outter, and modular hardened outter pin to set bump steer curve. Mine is set to 0.5mm rear toe deviation at 38mm of compression, and toe goes "inward" on both compression and rebound like on a RSR for lots of rear grip. I still have the OEM rear toe eccentric dials because I never had them slip even with running Pirelli DH slicks.

Porsche Motorsport 997.1 Cup front LCA rubber inner with sealed ball joint- I prefer the .1 Cup version for the rubber inners to possibly prevent beating up the front subframe. I did press out the rubber caster bushing and replaced it with solid 3-hole version for caster adjustment. When it comes time to replace the front LCA I'd probably get the .2 Cup outters and keep the .1 Cup runner inners. But then again, I don't know if there's even any geometry advantage using the .2 Cup or even RSR front LCA at the street car ride height I'm running. I'm using OEM caster arms because I need secure holding slots for brake ducts.

Porsche Motorsport 997.1 Cup rear LCA, monoball with sealed ball joint- They have been on my car for 6 years. 50+ track days and have zero play. The .1 Cup LCA has monoball ball inners and solid caster bushings but doesn't have modular outter pin like the .2 Cup and RSR LCA has. When it comes time to replace, I'd consider .2 Cup version, but then again, why change if there's nothing wrong with .1 version.

Demon Speed Motorsport rear upper links(aka dog bones)- I think there are many good brands of rear upper links, as long the monoball bearings are of good quality they all serve the same purpose of replacing the OEM rubber version. To be frank, for me, I can't say I notice a difference with monoball rear upper links alone over the OEM upper links that are in good condition. I got rear upper links to join bandwagon. I got them from Demon Speed because I prefer to deal with companies that actually races cars.

Here's my car with this package running Cup car times in a street car with air conditioning, power windows, cup holder-

RAudi Driver

^You are flying.

point2point

The use case for my GT3 is enjoying the hell out of canyon/mountain road drives. I was thinking about using quality dampers with relatively soft springs. I'm glad to hear that 390/720 springs can still perform well on the track. I am going to try 450/700 with JRZ 1232 3 ways.

Mr. Adair

I have sitting in my garage similar ^

-JRZ RS Pro 3 way with QR remotes
-Solid monoball upper mounts, divider plates, locking collars and spring seats
-Custom Eibach ERS main spring
-Custom Eibach ERS tender spring
-PMNA parts: 997 Cup toe arms w/bump steer, solid LCA thrust arm bushings F/R, inner LCA mono *****
-Light track/road alignment from Tom at TPC. (I can send you the specs, they work!)

After a year of research this setup was done to copy what was essentially the 4.0 suspension and then some. I did this in conjunction with Tom at TPC, John Sellinger (Powderhound heavily tracked GT2) and Chris Cervelli in CO. Whether I install this set up or not is yet to be determined. It's a pretty aggressive track/road focused setup. I am a concerned it could be too much but I have it on opinion from several people that tell me this setup rides better on the street than a stock 3.8. It's all about high end remote dampers and matched springs. Like others have said, what's most import is the shop or tuner you pick and let them use the brands they know and use the most.

Tom@TPC Racing

Agree with you guys on damper valving. Spring length is an influential factor as well. I actually had two sets of B16's on two different 997's. B16 for GT3/RS/4.0/GT2/GT2RS comes with 330/728 springs. Personally I didn't find the front end for cruising to be pleasing. So I took out the 7-inch 330 front springs and helper springs and replaced them with 8-inch 400 front springs without helpers. For me the front rode significantly better over highway bumps and expansion joints with the taller/stiffer front springs. As an experiment I only did the front spring swap on the first set, on the second set I put in a DSC with the original B16 springs and the car to rode even better over bumps/expansion joints and worked better on track by supplementing the relatively soft front spring with damping force only when the additional stiffness is needed(i.e. heavy trail braking). This experiment asserted that selecting the ideal damper valving(resulting in a range damping force) for the occasion is a huge factor in the equation. Which is why I am very partial to DSC because it actively adjusts the damping force to the driving load. Back to the springs, for any usage other than smooth track only, use as tall of a spring as you can. Taller springs are made from longer length spring wire that handles most bump frequencies better.

Protocav

This is very true, and great advice.

powdrhound

Those are great shocks..