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Widers911, you are correct on the 997 Cup Cars not having variocam. General question to the group: Does using the lower hole only on the center muffler - like many of the side bypass pipes do - send the vast majority of exhaust straight out the tips (via a short run)? It appears on the diagram of the center muffler, that if flow goes straight from the cat to the lower entrance of the center muffler, it has a short, unobstructed path to the atmosphere. That would in essence be a straight-through exhaust, correct? It appears the upper entrance makes the exhaust take a circuitous path to escape, and therefore, if using a side delete setup, you would get some sound deadening from the center muffler. There is no purpose for the flapper valves on an installation that only uses the lower entrance, so maybe these are designed as race systems only? I would love to get rid of the sides for the weight, access, and heat issues, but I do not want a ridiculously loud system, and I would like to keep my exhaust system flapper valves. Do the flappers get destroyed without the side mufflers to deaden the exhaust pulses and heat? I currently have a SW bypass, so I could make it a little bit louder, but not so loud as to hear the complaints from my neighbors over the sound of the exhaust!!
running side deletes to a stock center muffler is not the same as "an unobstructed path to the atmosphere", which is what side deletes + center bypass would be. even if exhaust is only going through the bottom inlet, as I understand it, there is still some muffling in the stock system.
I'm kinda on the same boat as you. I have a cross design center bypass. eventually I want to do a side delete but I'm not sure if I want a straight through system. then there's also the possibility of different headers. too many things to think about, so I'm just enjoying the car as is atm.
Would the cup center be louder than the stock 997gt3 center muffler?
And secondly, do you guys think it will
last longer than the stock?
Mine is cracked and no chance of welding. To many cracks.
Spoke to Jamie at Dundon. He has a life time warranty center muffler.
Only problem is that it will be close to 5grand before I get thru customs and delivered in Europe.
The Cup center will be slightly louder then street center muffler but totally streetable and daily driver friendly.
The Cup center mufflers are famous for losing the baffles inside. (I had to open my cup center muffler, gut it and weld it back. its perfect.)
If you can find a cup center for a good deal, it is not a bad place to be.
running side deletes to a stock center muffler is not the same as "an unobstructed path to the atmosphere", which is what side deletes + center bypass would be. even if exhaust is only going through the bottom inlet, as I understand it, there is still some muffling in the stock system.....
JB911 really loves the Carnewal,.. and I've considered that system, since it really is the best of all worlds. Open when you want it,... closed when you want it,... with the push of a remote button.
My only hesitation is cutting / pinching into the wires to install.
=Steve
Hi Steve, I've got the Carnewal module on my car and there is no cutting or pinching involved.
Thanks sin911. I think I was confusing the installation of Carnewal product, with the Auto Blip product, which does require splicing into the brake wires under the dash. This 7.2 / 3 car is new to me, & my internet searching has taken me in a lot of directions.
(which Btw, I have decided it will be more fun to perfect my heel/toe, rather than getting a crutch to lean on)
Question: So with the Carnewal PSE Manual product, how is the control box powered (not the remote, but the box that connects in the engine bay, to the vacuum solenoid)?
If it's a internal lithium polymer type battery, and doesn't require a hot wire from the car,... then I'm in & will order it.
I don't think there's a battery inside the box-the remote does have a small battery, but either way I've had mine for over 4 years with no issues.
I installed the box just to the right of the airbox with the ground wire under the torx bolt that mounts the rear bumper cover. If the ground is a poor connection the system will not activate, make sure it's solid ground even if it looks like it is. Ground wire connector under bumper cover, torx bolt into the hole making sure the bolt is indeed touching the connector, because the body paint will not ground, obviously-
When you install the box, you connect it to the solenoid. That connector is a bit of a pain to disconnect, but otherwise easy installation. I actually lost the spring circlip that holds the connector to the solenoid when installing, but they mailed me one since it can't really be bought anywhere. Great support from Carnewal.
So if one gets valved sides, it's great to have, or as I do, FVD center bypass, press the remote and it's quiet when you want. If I did get valved sides and kept the FVD center, closing the valves might quiet it down a bit. But the car is even louder from cold start until the air pump kicks in as it warms up. The problem is at night wen it's quiet-I could start it with garage door closed(which is dangerous) and drape a towel on the tips to quiet it down as I leave(laughs)
I'm sure with valved side+center delete could be tolerated at idle to a certain extent. The Switchpath system is exactly that, but there's not a lot of videos to compare. The Rallye videos showcase different systems, whatever they use. I guess they're not all the same either, years ago I think I saw some info that some use M&M. FVD sells them, and now have the valved side deletes for (997 and 991-so there's a lot of choices-
Thanks JB. But without some sort of power to the receiver box in the engine bay, how does it receive the signal from the remote fob?
It's got a ground (as you've said),... so there is no power wire that we need to splice in somewhere?
I'm doubting that they used infrared light since that would hinder it being used from inside the car. Must be some sort of signal to the box when you click it
There are 2 connectors coming from the box-
unplug the factory one from solenoid, plug one in, and other connector to the factory one that was plugged into the solenoid-
There is no wire splicing 👍
you can probably see the + simbol on the grey solenoid case so it seems that’s powering things
I'm about to install fabspeed headers with 200 cell cats, fabspeed single pipe side deletes going into the stock center muffler. I'm curious as to whether I need to reinstall the side muffler heat shields again. Without the mufflers there it seems like overkill. Any opinions?
Single bypass (non-valved) will drone
Dual bypass (non-valved) I’ve read will not drone which I find hard to believe
Dual bypass (with valved) will not drone
Side and center delete will have max weight saving and awesome sound but be prepared for lots of drones and complaints from s/o if they ever ride in the car
Don't believe it. I have valved side bypasses, and the they definitely drone at certain speeds.. Went and bought the Dundan quiet center muffler after I blew a hole original exhaust.
Don't believe it. I have valved side bypasses, and the they definitely drone at certain speeds.. Went and bought the Dundan quiet center muffler after I blew a hole original exhaust.
Could you please explain at what rpms and under what loads/conditions the valved side-bypass drones. I was planning this for my 2007 RS, but definitely don't want that. Do you have an idea as to why the oem center muffler failed? Was it tracked? Thanks in advance.
Thanks sin911. I think I was confusing the installation of Carnewal product, with the Auto Blip product, which does require splicing into the brake wires under the dash. This 7.2 / 3 car is new to me, & my internet searching has taken me in a lot of directions.
(which Btw, I have decided it will be more fun to perfect my heel/toe, rather than getting a crutch to lean on)
Question: So with the Carnewal PSE Manual product, how is the control box powered (not the remote, but the box that connects in the engine bay, to the vacuum solenoid)?
If it's a internal lithium polymer type battery, and doesn't require a hot wire from the car,... then I'm in & will order it.
Thanks,
=Steve
Steve, sorry for replying so late. The Carnewal module somehow draws the power from the cables connected to the original valve control wires (I suck at electrical stuff, sorry for a horrible explanation). Basically it just attaches to the original exhaust valve wiring, and there is a separate grounding wire for the unit. That's it! Hope this helps you make a decision.
02-15-2019, 12:05 AM
