Advice on my GT3 (Regear / Ring & Pinion)
08-20-2018, 05:27 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Advice on my GT3 (Regear / Ring & Pinion)
So I have a 2010 GT3 and a ton of memories in that car. I’ve considered jumping into an RS but I just love my car so much, that I just don’t want to make that choice. So! With that being said, I do want to spicen up the car a bit. Need advice from my fellow car nuts....
ive having the coolant lines pinned, and while the engine is out, I’m going to do a 4.0 Clutch/LWFW Kit. I’ve dont a lot of homework and with the dampener I feel comfortable with the mod. But I still don’t love the narrow body gear ratios. With doing the below modifications, I’d think the car would be absolutely perfect.
So here are my choices.
- Re gear the car and also fix worn synchros as preventative measure.
- Do a 4.0 Ring and Pinion and leave the stock transmission alone.
- Don’t do anything. Stick with the 4.0 Clutch and LWFW. The above mods aren’t worth it.
- Sell all my cars, buy a Prius and then take up bird watching as a new hobby.
ive having the coolant lines pinned, and while the engine is out, I’m going to do a 4.0 Clutch/LWFW Kit. I’ve dont a lot of homework and with the dampener I feel comfortable with the mod. But I still don’t love the narrow body gear ratios. With doing the below modifications, I’d think the car would be absolutely perfect.
So here are my choices.
- Re gear the car and also fix worn synchros as preventative measure.
- Do a 4.0 Ring and Pinion and leave the stock transmission alone.
- Don’t do anything. Stick with the 4.0 Clutch and LWFW. The above mods aren’t worth it.
- Sell all my cars, buy a Prius and then take up bird watching as a new hobby.
08-20-2018, 05:36 PM
#2
Agent Orange
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Getting the 3.8/4.0 R&P is definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Frankly, that was the best part for me in jumping from a 997-2 GT3 to the RS. Obviously there are other factors but the 3.89 R&P really transforms the car. But it's not a cheap upgrade and don't expect to see much (if any) of the money you sink into it back should you decide to sell some day.
Or just stare at this guy from your Prius, it's just as gratifying.
Or just stare at this guy from your Prius, it's just as gratifying.
08-20-2018, 05:59 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
You should chat with him as he just went down this route
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...1091644&page=1
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...1091644&page=1
08-20-2018, 07:52 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
We Greeks are passionate and loyal. Nothing wrong with upgrading to an RS, but honestly 10 GT3 is about as good as it gets. An awesome car with a certain rarity which will be more evident over time as production numbers on new GT3s go up. Keep it and do small sensible upgrades.
08-20-2018, 08:07 PM
#5
I just did this. I had Goldcrest refresh the gearbox (new synchros, four point bearings, etc. as needed) and replace the R&P with an 3.8 RS unit. I did not get the longer 6th gear. A few observations:
1. My car has 47k miles on it and they recommended the refresh but didn't say it was critical. To be honest, it didn't make a huge difference. I would say shifts are 10% more crisp/smooth with all the new synchros, bearings, etc. but I am not sure I would do a rebuild again if I could have somehow driven it back to back first. I did not have any gear grinding / synchro issues to start with. That being said, it is good piece of mind to know that everything in there is fresh!
2. The 3.8 R&P makes a nice difference, low end punch is significantly improved, I am glad I did not go with the 4.0 motorsports unit as i think that would have been overkill and annoying on the highway (although I will note that the 4.0 unit is less expensive than the 3.8). The motorsports unit also means everything in the gearbox is generally spinning faster, you are shifting more often, etc. so causes faster wear and tear. I think the 3.8 is a great happy medium
3. I did not get a taller 6th gear and slightly wish that I did. I spin about 3400-3500 RPM at ~80 mph and would have loved to have 6th as more of a cruiser gear. That being said, the 200-300 RPM drop may not be worth the extra price
1. My car has 47k miles on it and they recommended the refresh but didn't say it was critical. To be honest, it didn't make a huge difference. I would say shifts are 10% more crisp/smooth with all the new synchros, bearings, etc. but I am not sure I would do a rebuild again if I could have somehow driven it back to back first. I did not have any gear grinding / synchro issues to start with. That being said, it is good piece of mind to know that everything in there is fresh!
2. The 3.8 R&P makes a nice difference, low end punch is significantly improved, I am glad I did not go with the 4.0 motorsports unit as i think that would have been overkill and annoying on the highway (although I will note that the 4.0 unit is less expensive than the 3.8). The motorsports unit also means everything in the gearbox is generally spinning faster, you are shifting more often, etc. so causes faster wear and tear. I think the 3.8 is a great happy medium
3. I did not get a taller 6th gear and slightly wish that I did. I spin about 3400-3500 RPM at ~80 mph and would have loved to have 6th as more of a cruiser gear. That being said, the 200-300 RPM drop may not be worth the extra price
08-20-2018, 10:46 PM
#6
I did the 4.0 in my 7.1 late last year, although it is a costly mod, I do find the car is easier to drive in traffic (which we have no shortage of here) and its got more punch out of corners for the track (which is why I did it) all in all, it is great addition and transforms the car in all scenarios, I dont find it annoying on the freeway, but legally those are about 70mph at best here. 
I did not change any of the transmission gear ratios when I did mine, but we did replace the 2nd gear as the dog teeth were pretty bruised and battered.
I did not change any of the transmission gear ratios when I did mine, but we did replace the 2nd gear as the dog teeth were pretty bruised and battered.
08-21-2018, 02:44 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
I did a 3.89 conversion on my 997.1 RS (OEM is 3.44). The difference is dramatic. I did the taller sixth gear same as the factory did on the 997.2 RS. I have read that 4.00 ratio R&P gears have a problem in that the teeth mesh in the exact same position every rotation. This creates an odd wear pattern. Is this correct?
Trending Topics
08-21-2018, 09:22 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Can’t thank you enough for the tips and advice guys!
ilko - Yea I know I’ll get nothing back on the work. But just at that point where it’s in my head now so I’m just going to do it while the engine is down. Looks like the Whooping Crain will have to wait.... : )
bmwtye - Thanks for the heads up. Just sent him a PM.
agdamis - Ella! My loyalty is basically with feta cheese and Porsche’s. lol. I’ve done everything to the car that I wanted outside of this (GT2 buckets, monoball, Tarrett components and LSD) After this work, I’m done.
Bergx7 - Awesome feedback. This is my exact scenario. I’ll see what needs to be replaced in the transmission. And I’m also torn on the tall 6th gear. My 964 has kind of turned into my fun cruiser, so I’m not sure if it would bother me. If you had to do it over again, would you do the taller 6th gear now?
Astrix - How do you like the 4.0 ratios? Too tall on the highway? When I drove my friends RS around town I loved it. The LWFW didn’t feel difficult compared to me Single mass. Just loved the way the car felt.
HarmonyJim - I’ll def look into it. I was surprised the 4.0 RP is cheaper than the 3.89 RP. But thanks for the heads up. You guys are definitely reinforcing my decision to do it.
ilko - Yea I know I’ll get nothing back on the work. But just at that point where it’s in my head now so I’m just going to do it while the engine is down. Looks like the Whooping Crain will have to wait.... : )
bmwtye - Thanks for the heads up. Just sent him a PM.
agdamis - Ella! My loyalty is basically with feta cheese and Porsche’s. lol. I’ve done everything to the car that I wanted outside of this (GT2 buckets, monoball, Tarrett components and LSD) After this work, I’m done.
Bergx7 - Awesome feedback. This is my exact scenario. I’ll see what needs to be replaced in the transmission. And I’m also torn on the tall 6th gear. My 964 has kind of turned into my fun cruiser, so I’m not sure if it would bother me. If you had to do it over again, would you do the taller 6th gear now?
Astrix - How do you like the 4.0 ratios? Too tall on the highway? When I drove my friends RS around town I loved it. The LWFW didn’t feel difficult compared to me Single mass. Just loved the way the car felt.
HarmonyJim - I’ll def look into it. I was surprised the 4.0 RP is cheaper than the 3.89 RP. But thanks for the heads up. You guys are definitely reinforcing my decision to do it.
08-21-2018, 09:45 AM
#9
Race Car
2. I am glad I did not go with the 4.0 motorsports unit as i think that would have been overkill and annoying on the highway (although I will note that the 4.0 unit is less expensive than the 3.8). The motorsports unit also means everything in the gearbox is generally spinning faster, you are shifting more often, etc. so causes faster wear and tear. I think the 3.8 is a great happy medium
OP - If you track the car gear to your home track and maximize performance at that venue. My personal experience is that you will gain 1-2 seconds per lap depending on the length of the circuit. I'd also suggest that if this is a street only car to NOT do this modification, it's not worth it in my opinion if you're not focused on increasing track performance. You'll find yourself on the street just cruising around 1 gear higher than you did before and rarely noticing a difference. We could also go down the rabbit hole of re-gearing 3-4-5-6 vs. the ring and pinion. The cost between the two isn't much different and the full re-gear is the better performance option because you fix the long spacing between gears. The reason I personally chose Ring and Pinion vs. re-gear was because my observation is that to get the proper short 3rd ratio you want that gear turns into a 50 hour (track time) wear item. I know a friend who's is on his 3rd "new" 3rd gear since re-gearing.
I chose 4.00 motorsport gear based on data from the tracks I run and couldn't be happier with my choice.
08-21-2018, 10:55 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
@3500 rpm in 6th gear on the freeway the difference between the 3.89 (3.8 / 4.0 RS) and 4.00 (Motorsport) gear sets is 2 mph. Every potential downside you listed for the 4.00 unit also holds true for the 3.89...they are really close to each other compared to the 3.44 stock gearing.
OP - If you track the car gear to your home track and maximize performance at that venue. My personal experience is that you will gain 1-2 seconds per lap depending on the length of the circuit. I'd also suggest that if this is a street only car to NOT do this modification, it's not worth it in my opinion if you're not focused on increasing track performance. You'll find yourself on the street just cruising around 1 gear higher than you did before and rarely noticing a difference. We could also go down the rabbit hole of re-gearing 3-4-5-6 vs. the ring and pinion. The cost between the two isn't much different and the full re-gear is the better performance option because you fix the long spacing between gears. The reason I personally chose Ring and Pinion vs. re-gear was because my observation is that to get the proper short 3rd ratio you want that gear turns into a 50 hour (track time) wear item. I know a friend who's is on his 3rd "new" 3rd gear since re-gearing.
I chose 4.00 motorsport gear based on data from the tracks I run and couldn't be happier with my choice.
OP - If you track the car gear to your home track and maximize performance at that venue. My personal experience is that you will gain 1-2 seconds per lap depending on the length of the circuit. I'd also suggest that if this is a street only car to NOT do this modification, it's not worth it in my opinion if you're not focused on increasing track performance. You'll find yourself on the street just cruising around 1 gear higher than you did before and rarely noticing a difference. We could also go down the rabbit hole of re-gearing 3-4-5-6 vs. the ring and pinion. The cost between the two isn't much different and the full re-gear is the better performance option because you fix the long spacing between gears. The reason I personally chose Ring and Pinion vs. re-gear was because my observation is that to get the proper short 3rd ratio you want that gear turns into a 50 hour (track time) wear item. I know a friend who's is on his 3rd "new" 3rd gear since re-gearing.
I chose 4.00 motorsport gear based on data from the tracks I run and couldn't be happier with my choice.
Plan now is to ship it to different shops around the country and have fun trying out new tracks. Like NorCal, Midwest and maybe even Montreal area.
The car has every track mod I want except for a LWFW and different gear ratios. I’m trying to find the best ROI for the mod. Like if I get slightly less performance with a R&P but it’s more robust and long lasting, I’ll go the R&P route.
Last edited by The Greek; 08-21-2018 at 06:34 PM.
08-21-2018, 06:53 PM
#13
@3500 rpm in 6th gear on the freeway the difference between the 3.89 (3.8 / 4.0 RS) and 4.00 (Motorsport) gear sets is 2 mph. Every potential downside you listed for the 4.00 unit also holds true for the 3.89...they are really close to each other compared to the 3.44 stock gearing.
OP - If you track the car gear to your home track and maximize performance at that venue. My personal experience is that you will gain 1-2 seconds per lap depending on the length of the circuit. I'd also suggest that if this is a street only car to NOT do this modification, it's not worth it in my opinion if you're not focused on increasing track performance. You'll find yourself on the street just cruising around 1 gear higher than you did before and rarely noticing a difference. We could also go down the rabbit hole of re-gearing 3-4-5-6 vs. the ring and pinion. The cost between the two isn't much different and the full re-gear is the better performance option because you fix the long spacing between gears. The reason I personally chose Ring and Pinion vs. re-gear was because my observation is that to get the proper short 3rd ratio you want that gear turns into a 50 hour (track time) wear item. I know a friend who's is on his 3rd "new" 3rd gear since re-gearing.
I chose 4.00 motorsport gear based on data from the tracks I run and couldn't be happier with my choice.
OP - If you track the car gear to your home track and maximize performance at that venue. My personal experience is that you will gain 1-2 seconds per lap depending on the length of the circuit. I'd also suggest that if this is a street only car to NOT do this modification, it's not worth it in my opinion if you're not focused on increasing track performance. You'll find yourself on the street just cruising around 1 gear higher than you did before and rarely noticing a difference. We could also go down the rabbit hole of re-gearing 3-4-5-6 vs. the ring and pinion. The cost between the two isn't much different and the full re-gear is the better performance option because you fix the long spacing between gears. The reason I personally chose Ring and Pinion vs. re-gear was because my observation is that to get the proper short 3rd ratio you want that gear turns into a 50 hour (track time) wear item. I know a friend who's is on his 3rd "new" 3rd gear since re-gearing.
I chose 4.00 motorsport gear based on data from the tracks I run and couldn't be happier with my choice.
08-21-2018, 07:04 PM
#14
Drifting
If it's a track car then forget taller 6th, you need a SHORTER 6th gear.
I put my stock trans on the shelf and installed a 996 cup trans with guard diff. (It bolts right in, same case).
The Greek knows this, but for others reading this, I have exact same car 2010 GT3. Well they started the same. Mine is gutted/caged race car now.
I put my stock trans on the shelf and installed a 996 cup trans with guard diff. (It bolts right in, same case).
The Greek knows this, but for others reading this, I have exact same car 2010 GT3. Well they started the same. Mine is gutted/caged race car now.