Originally Posted by Iceter

I won't get into suggestions on particular detailing products as that can turn threads sideways in a heartbeat.

I will, however, comment on one item you listed in your original post. You mentioned washing with a strong detergent to "clean the paint".

The only time you want to wash with a strong detergent is when you are stripping the paint of all contaminants and prior wax/sealant products. For this, most detailers recommend Dawn liquid dishwashing soap. It strips most waxes and polishes and cuts through grease better than any other soap I've ever tried.

BUT, once you do that, clay bar and then seal your paint, you DO NOT want to use a strong detergent to wash the car regularly. For regular washes, use a mild soap that is specifically made for cars.

Because, like you, I like to use only one brand of product on my car at a time, I don't use car washing soaps that say they contain wax ("Washes and Waxes in One Step!"). I just use a mild soap that foams well and will lift the dirt up and lubricate the paint as I wash. A mild soap like this will not strip the wax or sealant you worked so hard to apply. Once your wax or sealant base is applied, as long as it's in good shape, it won't take much detergent action to clean dirt and grime off of the car.

HTH, James.

Originally Posted by OKB

i'd say your clay/compound/polish is a little redundant , taking into account youve already done this once, the normal should be;
wash, try mequires crystal car wash
polish, dont know what you are using but a good quality polish should be fine
wax, like meguires 26

unless theres some spot or area thats got some odd material on it since the last wax job, youre not getting anything else off the paint and theres not any reason to re strip it

Originally Posted by OKB

it results in a better pattern to use a orbital polisher than to use hands , but it takes alot of practice to get it right. It may do more harm than good to start as a first timer with a machine. Keep in mind with any compound that is abrasive you are taking off paint, just like fine sandpaper, if you take too much, thats it, its done for good. Its safer to use a machine with wax and maybe after some practice to use with polish.
In a body shop it takes months or years before they let a new man touch a buffer, its the same results with orbital polishers and compounds and polishes

Originally Posted by vern1

That's why you should use a random orbital not a true direct drive polisher. With a ROM its tough to do much damage - with a direct drive, not too tough

There are tons of video's on ROM's and they really are quite easy to use - safely

I have a Flex which is not the cheapest but have had it for 6 years and lots of polishes and have found it to be a good investment

Originally Posted by rodH

and I assume you are talking about the really nice/expensive ones, not the $39 sears special? (I actually have one of those cheap ones my dad gave me way back, but never bothered to use it)

Originally Posted by vern1

Yes. The Flex is at least 10x that but it has a powerful motor etc. The cheap ones just don't have the power to do a good job and are not worth it at all (my apologies to your father )

Originally Posted by rodH

LOL, maybe there is a reason he gave it away?

Are any of the $100-150 porter cable units worth using, or is it $400 or nothing?