Steph1

Oh but I check regularly. Unfortunately, I have halogen headlights and most used headlights on ebay are bi-xenon.

But I was just hoping to get a LED headlights, but for the price, your experience is a real turn off.

Still on the fence, but for now I'll concentrate on my soon to be here coil springs.

rtl5009

Will these work for a 997.1 since its only 1 HID output?

lordvonpineapple

Just got these for my 997.2 C2S with the "normal" HID lights.
Product is fine, no paint issues for me. Black lights look great (evil!) on a basalt black 911.
Switching over the levelling motor is a little tricky for a first timer. Detaching and re-attaching the ball joint from the motor to the plastic knuckle is tricky!
Happy with the purchase, but haven't hooked up the DRL wires yet, as I am a little weak in the chest/shoulders at the moment from an operation and cant take off the bumper by myself until I get stronger.

Can someone confirm that the bumper has to be completely or partially removed to gain access to the normal DRL wiring that feeds the LED lights in the bumper below the headlight. I am thinking that that is where I get my DRL +12v? Any other easy / clean places? Note that my side markers are just 'indicators' and lock/unlock flashers, not DRL.

Khloesdad

I've had mine for about 2 weeks now. Also, no paint issues, everything looked very good. Switching over leveling motors was relatively easy. As far as DRL lighting, I used a blank accessory hot fuse slot so they come on when the key is activated. I used an small inline 5 amp fuse. Leveling motors selftest when the key is turned to on so I know its all done properly. "However", I did not like the silver outer part of the headlight on my black car. I did try to use the blackout stickers but they did'nt quite fit to my liking so I carefully masked off around the silver ring and scuffed and painted the outer edge black. HID's have a high/low beam actuator as well as the halogen H1 high beams. So far I quite happy with the more modern look.

lordvonpineapple

1) Photos of the silver ring -> black ring paint conversion please!
2) Could you provide a few more details on the "blank accessory hot fuse slot " approach. What exactly do you need to do. And are there any pros/cons compared to splicing in the DRL wiring to the normal lights in the bumper?

Khloesdad

I can get some pics tomorrow probably. Unless your car already has DLR's theres no power for DLR's. I used a blank acc. hot fuse slot at the bottom of my fuse block {you'll need a test light to find it} and plugged it in there. They come on when the key is turned to start the car and stay on till the car is off.

EMC2

Another option is to splice them into the side markers. This way you don't have to remove the bumper.

Khloesdad

You can do the side markers but I wanted mine on without having to turn anything on. So theres no misunderstanding, I'm talking about the LED ring that goes all the way around. Not the super bright LED driving lights. Those come on when I pull the front fog switch.

EMC2

@Khloesdad yes I was also referring to the LED ring, and that is definitely the trade-off of not pulling the bumper (you have to manually turn on the DRL if you want the LED rings on all the time).
The main headlight assembly/driving lights does not use LED's (either halogen or xenon).

Khloesdad

I really like how mine are. I ran a single small gauge wire to the inside cab. quite easy. Good thing about LED's, a very small gauge wire is all it takes. Acc hot fuse blank is at the bottom of the block. Start the car and presto.

9elvn

Does anyone know if they fixed their production issues these are on my upgrade list

Khloesdad

What specific issues? Mine had no issues.

lordvonpineapple

Ok, finally got my lights fully installed. For the DRL LED angel ring lights I:
1. Removed and disassembled the fuse panel
2. Added a new OEM wire/clip into the back of empty slot C1 in the fuse panel and put in a 7.5A fuse
3. Routed that wire through a grommet in the frunk firewall.
4. Routed the + and - wires from the DRL LEDs on the lights rearward under the wings and through a hole near the suspension top mounts.

So,
The DRL power is fuse proctected with a fuse in the fuse panel, but all looks tidy and OEM just like every other fuse - no "pigtail" / "add a fuse" shenanigans.
The wire/routing is hidden behind carpet etc within the cabin.
The wire routing in the frunk is all tidy.

Very happy with these lights!

911-997

Would you mind pointing out the location of grommet in the frunk to pass the wire though it? Did you make a hole in the grommet?

Thanks

lordvonpineapple

I am on a UK RHD car so not sure if exactly the same as US LHD, but I could see a number of different grommets in the firewall. Exploring from the frunk side with all plastic removed... The grommet that seemed closest to the fuse box was very very sturdy rubber around the large main wiring loom coming into the trunk. The rubber around that was so thick and tough there was no way I was playing with that one. Then there is on related to steering, left that alone. Moving along, more towards the centre of the vehicle, but still driver side was a full grommet that did not have any wires coming through at all. And while it didn't have any holes, it did feel relatively thin when I prodded it with my fingers, and therefore able to be easily pierced with a thin metal spike/needle (I used a foot long thin metal barbecue rod with a spirals on it). So I removed the battery to have more room, and then just spiked through down and towards the steering wheel. I was able to pick it up on the other side, wrap my wire around it and then tape the wire up and then pull the spike back to the trunk side. Voile. Hope this helps. Can take a photo if you like. But now now its late, maybe tomorrow.