Which Brand Brake Pad and Rotors
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Which Brand Brake Pad and Rotors
Hi,
Which brand pads and rotors would you recommend for 2006 C4s.
I am thinking about getting everything Brembo.
But someone suggested me Brembo rotors and textar pads?
A couple of noob questions:
Noticed that Brembo has the same part number for rear and front pads. Are the pads same for front and rear?
Also believe there are no sensors on back wheels. Can someone please confirm that please.
Which brand pads and rotors would you recommend for 2006 C4s.
I am thinking about getting everything Brembo.
But someone suggested me Brembo rotors and textar pads?
A couple of noob questions:
Noticed that Brembo has the same part number for rear and front pads. Are the pads same for front and rear?
Also believe there are no sensors on back wheels. Can someone please confirm that please.
#2
For OEM equivalent replacement I would go with the Sebro or Zimmerman rotors and the textar pads. no the front and rear pads are not the same and there are are sensors on both the front as well as the back wheels. If you are careful when removing them, the sensors can be re-used and don't require replacement.
#3
Drifting
German parts toronto has Zimmerman and Textar.
I did my eX5 for $8oo on my desk. Price them there first.
If your doing your own sensors. I buy them every time.
Cars up in your garage... Saturday afternoon... Your yanking on that sensor.
Its been hot cold hot cold hot cold and 8 years old. It's going to break.
Don't save the $4o bucks.
I did my eX5 for $8oo on my desk. Price them there first.
If your doing your own sensors. I buy them every time.
Cars up in your garage... Saturday afternoon... Your yanking on that sensor.
Its been hot cold hot cold hot cold and 8 years old. It's going to break.
Don't save the $4o bucks.
#4
Rennlist Member
Alright where to begin on this one...
ROTORS:
I suggest ATE Coated for the front and Zimmermann Coated for the rear. Both brands are really good and will give you the same if not better quality as OEM. PLEASE be sure to get the COATED type, nobody likes driving around with rusty hats.
PADS:
I went with Ceramic Pads by TRW, they are made by a company in Spain and they are good quality brake pads. PLEASE be sure to get pads that have the harmonic counter weights on them. This is a newer design that reduces brake squeal. BTW, I have absolutely no brake squeal and barely any dust on my wheel with these pads.
HARDWARE:
You need the following in order to do a proper replacement, PLEASE do not skimp out on these items.
1. Sensors (4 qty)
2. Rotor set screws (4 qty)
3. Caliper bolts (8 qty)
4. Front brake pad dampers (4 qty)
5. Rear brake pad dampers (8 qty)
* I don't use brake pad dampers since my brake pads already come with a Teflon backing pads.
* While your're back there, be sure to adjust the parking brake by rotating the gear cam located inside the rear rotor hubs.
GOOD LUCK!
ROTORS:
I suggest ATE Coated for the front and Zimmermann Coated for the rear. Both brands are really good and will give you the same if not better quality as OEM. PLEASE be sure to get the COATED type, nobody likes driving around with rusty hats.
PADS:
I went with Ceramic Pads by TRW, they are made by a company in Spain and they are good quality brake pads. PLEASE be sure to get pads that have the harmonic counter weights on them. This is a newer design that reduces brake squeal. BTW, I have absolutely no brake squeal and barely any dust on my wheel with these pads.
HARDWARE:
You need the following in order to do a proper replacement, PLEASE do not skimp out on these items.
1. Sensors (4 qty)
2. Rotor set screws (4 qty)
3. Caliper bolts (8 qty)
4. Front brake pad dampers (4 qty)
5. Rear brake pad dampers (8 qty)
* I don't use brake pad dampers since my brake pads already come with a Teflon backing pads.
* While your're back there, be sure to adjust the parking brake by rotating the gear cam located inside the rear rotor hubs.
GOOD LUCK!
#5
Buy the cheapest oem coated rotors from pelican parts. Availability varies.
you can burn through 4 sets of oem ate for example for the same price of Porsche brand...
literally 4 times less expensive.
also, for pads depends on application.
stock brake calipers are literally brembos...no need to upgrade unless you are straight up racing. Porsche is known for braking performance out of the box
you can burn through 4 sets of oem ate for example for the same price of Porsche brand...
literally 4 times less expensive.
also, for pads depends on application.
stock brake calipers are literally brembos...no need to upgrade unless you are straight up racing. Porsche is known for braking performance out of the box
#6
Alright where to begin on this one...
PADS:
I went with Ceramic Pads by TRW, they are made by a company in Spain and they are good quality brake pads. PLEASE be sure to get pads that have the harmonic counter weights on them. This is a newer design that reduces brake squeal. BTW, I have absolutely no brake squeal and barely any dust on my wheel with these pads.
PADS:
I went with Ceramic Pads by TRW, they are made by a company in Spain and they are good quality brake pads. PLEASE be sure to get pads that have the harmonic counter weights on them. This is a newer design that reduces brake squeal. BTW, I have absolutely no brake squeal and barely any dust on my wheel with these pads.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Alright where to begin on this one...
ROTORS:
I suggest ATE Coated for the front and Zimmermann Coated for the rear. Both brands are really good and will give you the same if not better quality as OEM. PLEASE be sure to get the COATED type, nobody likes driving around with rusty hats.
PADS:
I went with Ceramic Pads by TRW, they are made by a company in Spain and they are good quality brake pads. PLEASE be sure to get pads that have the harmonic counter weights on them. This is a newer design that reduces brake squeal. BTW, I have absolutely no brake squeal and barely any dust on my wheel with these pads.
HARDWARE:
You need the following in order to do a proper replacement, PLEASE do not skimp out on these items.
1. Sensors (4 qty)
2. Rotor set screws (4 qty)
3. Caliper bolts (8 qty)
4. Front brake pad dampers (4 qty)
5. Rear brake pad dampers (8 qty)
* I don't use brake pad dampers since my brake pads already come with a Teflon backing pads.
* While your're back there, be sure to adjust the parking brake by rotating the gear cam located inside the rear rotor hubs.
GOOD LUCK!
ROTORS:
I suggest ATE Coated for the front and Zimmermann Coated for the rear. Both brands are really good and will give you the same if not better quality as OEM. PLEASE be sure to get the COATED type, nobody likes driving around with rusty hats.
PADS:
I went with Ceramic Pads by TRW, they are made by a company in Spain and they are good quality brake pads. PLEASE be sure to get pads that have the harmonic counter weights on them. This is a newer design that reduces brake squeal. BTW, I have absolutely no brake squeal and barely any dust on my wheel with these pads.
HARDWARE:
You need the following in order to do a proper replacement, PLEASE do not skimp out on these items.
1. Sensors (4 qty)
2. Rotor set screws (4 qty)
3. Caliper bolts (8 qty)
4. Front brake pad dampers (4 qty)
5. Rear brake pad dampers (8 qty)
* I don't use brake pad dampers since my brake pads already come with a Teflon backing pads.
* While your're back there, be sure to adjust the parking brake by rotating the gear cam located inside the rear rotor hubs.
GOOD LUCK!
Trending Topics
#8
I used Sebro Rotors from Pelican parts. For pads, I went with the Hawk Ceramic pads, and have been happy with them (it's been about 3 weeks for the fronts).
See this link:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...a-997-2-a.html
Don't reuse the caliper bolts or rotor set screws. Some people do reuse the dampers.
See this link:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...a-997-2-a.html
Don't reuse the caliper bolts or rotor set screws. Some people do reuse the dampers.
#9
Rennlist Member
You can reuse the dampeners.
porsche recommends new caliper bolts after removal but I and many others replace after every other removal.
just buy new set screws. they are considerably less than a buck each. shoot for stainless if you can which are (gasp) twice the price.
and my 2c... ATE drilled/coated are the way to go as Alexandrius said... if you don't track just get textar or Hawk ceramic touring pads.
porsche recommends new caliper bolts after removal but I and many others replace after every other removal.
just buy new set screws. they are considerably less than a buck each. shoot for stainless if you can which are (gasp) twice the price.
and my 2c... ATE drilled/coated are the way to go as Alexandrius said... if you don't track just get textar or Hawk ceramic touring pads.
#10
Track Day
Resurrecting old thread. Just got a 997.2 (street use) but my knowledge is mainly regarding track pads. My local indy shop recommended the Pagid street pads as having less dust, but I don't see them even mentioned on Rennlist. Anybody using them?
Also, I've been told Porsche rotors are cast with holes and that makes them last longer (as opposed to drilled). Anybody know if the Zimmerman, Sebros or ATE rotors are cast or are they all drilled? For the difference in price to the Porsche rotors even lasting <1/2 as long would be financially better with the aftermarket rotors.
Thanks in advance.
Peter
Also, I've been told Porsche rotors are cast with holes and that makes them last longer (as opposed to drilled). Anybody know if the Zimmerman, Sebros or ATE rotors are cast or are they all drilled? For the difference in price to the Porsche rotors even lasting <1/2 as long would be financially better with the aftermarket rotors.
Thanks in advance.
Peter
#11
Replace all the parts you can, it will make doing the job that much easier next time.
If you are replacing rotors replace:
rotors
retaining screws for rotors
caliper bolts (tighter to 64 foot pounds.
Pads,
replace pads
retaining clips and pins
brake bad sensors
dampeners
The person before me used the dampeners one to many times, they got stuck in the caliper piston. I had to remove the caliper piston( to remove the dampner), and bleed the brake lines. Not hard, but made the job much longer.
Also, it looks much nicer with all the new parts.
Best of luck!
If you are replacing rotors replace:
rotors
retaining screws for rotors
caliper bolts (tighter to 64 foot pounds.
Pads,
replace pads
retaining clips and pins
brake bad sensors
dampeners
The person before me used the dampeners one to many times, they got stuck in the caliper piston. I had to remove the caliper piston( to remove the dampner), and bleed the brake lines. Not hard, but made the job much longer.
Also, it looks much nicer with all the new parts.
Best of luck!
Last edited by ronvanr; 04-03-2017 at 10:14 AM. Reason: typo
#12
Race Director
Replace all the parts you can, it will make doing the job that much easier next time.
If you are replacing rotors replace:
rotors
retaining screws for rotors
caliper bolts (tighter to 64 foot pounds.
Pads,
replace pads
retaining clips and pins
brake bad sensors
dampeners
The person before me used the dampeners one to many times, they got stuck in the caliper piston. I had to remove the caliper piston( to remove the dampner), and bleed the brake lines. Not hard, but made the job much longer.
Also, it looks much nicer with all the new parts.
Best of luck!
If you are replacing rotors replace:
rotors
retaining screws for rotors
caliper bolts (tighter to 64 foot pounds.
Pads,
replace pads
retaining clips and pins
brake bad sensors
dampeners
The person before me used the dampeners one to many times, they got stuck in the caliper piston. I had to remove the caliper piston( to remove the dampner), and bleed the brake lines. Not hard, but made the job much longer.
Also, it looks much nicer with all the new parts.
Best of luck!
#13
Intermediate
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 34
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I replaced pads and rotors on my 997.1 S this weekend, and only replaced the actual pads and rotors. I went with Sebro rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Took 4 1/2 hours or so. Could've gone faster if I'd had a lift instead of a jack. Parts total were $620 or so. Much cheaper than the $1,800 quote I got from my Indy.
#14
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#15
Fair question, I just like having the newer parts in place. If I had to prioritize what I was keeping and replacing, this would certainly be at the bottom of my list.
Another reason I replaced, the person who had the car before me, painted the calipers on the car, so all these parts were covered with red paint - and not looking to smart. The paint made the retaining pins a pain to get out. I could have cleaned them up, but it was just easier for me to replace them.