This might be a dumb question, but I cant seem to find the answer. I want to drop my car asap, which will require an alignment of course. I will also need new tires in probably 6 months, at which point i will be going to aftermarket wheels with different offsets than my current stock wheels. So, can i throw on my lowering springs now and get the car aligned and be ok with that alignment when my wheels change, or will I need a new alignment at that time as well? I don't want to pay for 2 alignments in a 6 month span, so I didn't know if I had to wait on the spring install. New rears will be the same witdth, fronts 1/2" wider if that matters. Offsets going in front from 57 to 45 and in the back from 67 to 52.

 

Offset should not affect alignment.

 

I'd be inclined to drop it and not do an alignment until you get the new tires. This will give time for the springs to settle (which will affect the alignment to some degree). Then when your new tires are installed you will be certain that the suspension is aligned correctly.

 

I thought about holding off the alignment as well, I'm just paranoid that might expedite the tire wear, and with no spare tire it worries me.

 

If you drop, you'll need new rear adjustable toe links or you can't get back to stock rear toe measurements. So, 1) if you dont add new toe links you'll wear your rears MUCH faster because you'll have too much toe in and 2) if you do get new rear toe links you'll need an alignment.
This means 3) you need an alignment anyway you go or you'll wear your rears substantially quicker. This is all if you want to drop properly of course. if you just want to just slam and go then that's on you.

To answer your primary question, no you won't need an alignment after adding spacers or new wheels with a different offset. It will affect your scrub radius (minimally) and bump steer (also minimally) but that's not something you can easily fix via an alignment and now we're getting into the weeds of advanced suspension geometry.

 

I'm going with eibach springs on my 997.1 c2s so the drop won't be over an inch. I thought from my research I could still get within factory alignment specs. Anyone on here have issues not meeting specs and requiring toe links with eibachs?

 

I have eibachs and needed new rear toe links.

 

Which ones did you end up going with?

 

Rennline. RSS, Agency Power, Elephant Racing are all good too.
Tarett has these which are great for non track cars since they have a rubber bushing connected to the upright. Good price too.

http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...lnk-detail.htm

 

Do you have your alignment sheet you could share by chance? I found some alignments done and people didn't seem to have issues without the toe links.

Is this not aligned properly?
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...t-springs.html

Just trying to learn here before I go purchase everything..

 

I lowered with Eibach and did not require toe links to remain within spec. If I can find the sheet in my records bin I will post it.

These cars can be delivered at three different ride heights whether you have PASM, SPASM, or neither. It is doubtful that the cars are delivered with different toe links based on the suspension package that the car comers equipped with. I have not done any research on the subject but maybe others have and can chime in. It seems that Porsche would engineer enough adjustability into the system to accommodate the different suspension trim levels offered.

That said you might not need toe links to simply get within factory spec, but you might if you want any ability to fine tune within the specs.

 

What rickdogg said.

Although I didn't change anything on my suspension other than the Eibachs that I've had for a couple years and thru 2 alignments I had no trouble getting -1.6 camber and .12 toe on my rears.

 

I've recently moved to a new set of wheels/tires with a different offset. I wanted to see how the car would do without an alignment, and after 1800 miles or so.. it seems to track exactly how it did before the change. Haven't noticed anything except even more stability out of it.

 

I'll revise my previous statement to say that you can stay within approved toe and camber ranges with stock links by pushing the hats all the way in but then you're sacrificing rear track. You can get it within the range (barely) of approved alignment specs but not an ideal alignment without adjustable rear toe links.

Acceptable for street driving but not anything on the track.

 

Thank you everyone for the help.