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Im planning on using 2” square tubing 1/4” thick. Not too big but very solid. The two pad plates welded on each side will have rubber on it ( a hockey puck slice in half and glued on with contact cement) for a better grip and adding height to the lift points against the 911 bottom carriage.
I’m planning on Exercising all of this with a partner, my sons in their late teens are more than happy to help me when I’m working on the old girl. so if we were to have a person on each side and lifting at the same time, while keeping the jack stands underneath and adjusting its height as it’s raised, I’m sure things will stay stable and safe ?. I will have small 2” 12/12 wooden plank to drive up on all fours to add height for the low profile jack to sneak underneath.
these are 3ton jack stands with a 21.5” maximum height adjustment I’m planning on buying 4 of them . Great reviews on strength, stability and a overall product.
Seems like if you lift up on both sides at the same time you have two options ...
1. The car is perfectly balanced as it lifts up from the jack stands and rolls away due to the unchocked wheels on the jacks.
2. The car lifts at the back (or front) only putting torque (vector force) to one end or the other of the car. This creates an unstable condition.
I speak from the experience of rigging heavy equipment over the last 40 some years. Getting anything out of level (regardless of rounded bars or not) with create asymmetric forces that result in an unbalanced condition. A situation like this moved a friend's kneecap to his ankle (Australia) when a printing press tipped over.
If you insist on jacking one side (or end) much higher than the other please take extreme care.
For the price of liftbars, there isn't much you can do yourself or through other alternative means that will be cheaper and better. The liftbars are only a few hundred bucks, and they work. Ken (the inventor) has designed them well, and thought of all of the things you are struggling with now, and worked out the issues. I have a quick jack, but no way am I selling my liftbars. I can get the car in the air faster with the liftbars, and I am not constrained on the sides like with the QJ. YMMV.
The tube is rather large in size. That will make it more difficult to find a "low-clearance" jack that will actually fit under the bar to lift the car.
Originally Posted by Wayne Smith
You may need to drive up on blocks first.
That bar was made by me for a 996 and yes, you need to drive on to a couple of 2"x6" boards to get jack clearance. The bar is 2"x2" with a 1/8" wall thickness. The metal pieces were about $20.00 from the bargain bin at a local metal supply.
that’s exactly what I had in mind and hoping to duplicate. My Carrera 997.1 is parked and covered for the winter and I won’t be able to get my own measurements till spring. Would you be able to have your measurements in hand and willing to share them? I’m going with a square tube 2”/2” by 1/4”
1) total length on bar
2) length between the two top pads Center to Center
3) your bottom jack pad did you go right down the middle or did you offset a little for back engine weight
For the price of liftbars, there isn't much you can do yourself or through other alternative means that will be cheaper and better. The liftbars are only a few hundred bucks, and they work. Ken (the inventor) has designed them well, and thought of all of the things you are struggling with now, and worked out the issues. I have a quick jack, but no way am I selling my liftbars. I can get the car in the air faster with the liftbars, and I am not constrained on the sides like with the QJ. YMMV.
It’s not really about saving on cost, well it is and it isn’t. Anything shipped up to Canada from US is a fortune in cost from shipping, rate exchange and broker fees. I have a welder on hand and materials at work here at no cost and easy excess to bring home. Safety is my first priority and I will do my due diligence from start to end...
02-14-2020, 12:33 AM
