My battery has no bad cells. Why the drain every time???
03-12-2016, 03:21 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
CCA, and CA both got green lights on the BA7 just after I got back now BUT CHAR system test did show:
03-12-2016, 03:36 PM
#32
12.25 is still too low.
When the BA7 read 12.49 during the charge test, did the innova also read similar? You said the innova read high 13v yesterday.
If the innova reads under 13.5v when engine is running, you have an issue in the charging system.
When the BA7 read 12.49 during the charge test, did the innova also read similar? You said the innova read high 13v yesterday.
If the innova reads under 13.5v when engine is running, you have an issue in the charging system.
03-12-2016, 03:56 PM
#33
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Never 13.5 with the Innova while driving.
03-12-2016, 04:47 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Never lower than 13.5v while driving.
Last edited by ALEV8; 03-12-2016 at 05:14 PM.
03-12-2016, 06:34 PM
#37
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
What's the best culprit-rooter-outer? PIWIS module shut down test?
03-12-2016, 09:53 PM
#38
No, none of those fancy scanners can tell you where the drain is.
The quickest way is to clamp a dc amp meter around one of the battery cables to check for current drawn whem the car is at rest. Then start pulling one fuse at a time to see which one reduces the current draw.
Let me know if you still want to continue troubleshooting on your own.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V9XAT4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1457833619&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+current+amp+clamp&dpPl=1&dpI D=41kCfsDbSUL&ref=plSrch
The quickest way is to clamp a dc amp meter around one of the battery cables to check for current drawn whem the car is at rest. Then start pulling one fuse at a time to see which one reduces the current draw.
Let me know if you still want to continue troubleshooting on your own.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V9XAT4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1457833619&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+current+amp+clamp&dpPl=1&dpI D=41kCfsDbSUL&ref=plSrch
03-13-2016, 07:17 PM
#39
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
12.5 this AM
03-13-2016, 08:15 PM
#40
12.5v is good. Sounds like you may have an intermittent issue. Just drive it and keep monitoring the voltage until you see a clear pattern then? Btw, the innova tester should be removed if you park the car for a few weeks w/o driving/charging even though it only consumes 7mA. It's still using the battery.
03-13-2016, 11:16 PM
#41
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The morning voltage is the tell, correct?
03-13-2016, 11:30 PM
#42
03-14-2016, 04:38 PM
#43
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I want to say 12.5v again upon wake up, forgot the cold start but 99% sure it was 14v and yes we are in the high 13v range during operation. Yes I absolutely want to continue troubleshooting on my own, and I just purchased the clamp multimeter from Amazon should be here tomorrow. Please advise and let's do this!
03-14-2016, 04:58 PM
#44
I see no issue then. If you still want to check for parasitic drain, just follow these steps closely:
1) Keep the driver side door and the frunk lid open
2) Use a screwdriver or equivalent to push down on the door lock latch and the frunk lock latch to trick the car that those are closed
3) Zero the clamp meter by turning it ON and set it to read DC 2A DC amp and wait for 10 seconds or so for the reading to stabilize. It may bounce +/- 1 digit. Then hit zero.
4) Lock and arm the car with the remote and don't get inside (will trip the occupancy sensor and the alarm)
5) Clamp the meter to one of the battery cables (doesn't matter positive or negative)
6) Read the current (could be +ve or -ve. Doesn't matter). It may be a couple of amps in the first 20 minute or so
7) Wait for 1hr, remove the meter, zero it again and clamp it on the cable again to read the current.
8) Wait for another hr and repeat 7)
9) Repeat the above every few hrs till you see the current down to mA or tens of mA
If everything goes to sleep as they should, you should see at most ten of milliamps, say 50mA or less. With 12.5v morning voltage, I would wager to say that you don't have parasitic drain.
If there's a drain, you can start to pull one fuse at a time (hence an opened driver door) and check if the duirrent drop after each one. Do not resintall a fuse once you pulled it 'cause you may reboot some module if you do and that will throw off the current reading. Just note where each fuse goes carefully and don't mix them up.
1) Keep the driver side door and the frunk lid open
2) Use a screwdriver or equivalent to push down on the door lock latch and the frunk lock latch to trick the car that those are closed
3) Zero the clamp meter by turning it ON and set it to read DC 2A DC amp and wait for 10 seconds or so for the reading to stabilize. It may bounce +/- 1 digit. Then hit zero.
4) Lock and arm the car with the remote and don't get inside (will trip the occupancy sensor and the alarm)
5) Clamp the meter to one of the battery cables (doesn't matter positive or negative)
6) Read the current (could be +ve or -ve. Doesn't matter). It may be a couple of amps in the first 20 minute or so
7) Wait for 1hr, remove the meter, zero it again and clamp it on the cable again to read the current.
8) Wait for another hr and repeat 7)
9) Repeat the above every few hrs till you see the current down to mA or tens of mA
If everything goes to sleep as they should, you should see at most ten of milliamps, say 50mA or less. With 12.5v morning voltage, I would wager to say that you don't have parasitic drain.
If there's a drain, you can start to pull one fuse at a time (hence an opened driver door) and check if the duirrent drop after each one. Do not resintall a fuse once you pulled it 'cause you may reboot some module if you do and that will throw off the current reading. Just note where each fuse goes carefully and don't mix them up.
03-14-2016, 08:02 PM
#45
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Just started the car after letting it sit for about three hours locked and voltage is just 13.55v.