My battery has no bad cells. Why the drain every time???
03-10-2016, 12:45 AM
#16
I have the BA7 tester. If it's 12.63v when engine running, then you found your problem (either alternator or the cables).
03-10-2016, 02:29 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
No I meant Solar indicated 12.6 v car sitting there turned off just got home.....ordered the Innova just now same day so stay tuned!
03-10-2016, 02:49 AM
#18
Excellent! Now I can tell you how to use the innova tester. The tester itself uses only 7mA so it's safe to leave it plugged in overnight. Once it's plugged in, it will indicate the voltage and there are 3 LEDs, green, yellow and red. The LED tells you the health of the battery when the engine is off. When the engine is on, it tells you the health of the charging system (i.e., alternator plus cables). It automatically detects when engine is running.
You should see 14v or above at cold start, then it may taper to 13.5v or higher after you've driven the car for a while. You can turn on the a/c and low beam, the voltage should be 13.5 or higher at all times (that indicates your charging system is healthy).
Once you turn off the engine, just lock and arm the car. Now, the battery should read 12.7v or higher. The next morning before you unlock the car, it should read 12.6v or higher (that indicates there's no parasitic drain). When you crank, the voltage should drop to 9.x volt momentarily (that indicates the battery is healthy).
You should see 14v or above at cold start, then it may taper to 13.5v or higher after you've driven the car for a while. You can turn on the a/c and low beam, the voltage should be 13.5 or higher at all times (that indicates your charging system is healthy).
Once you turn off the engine, just lock and arm the car. Now, the battery should read 12.7v or higher. The next morning before you unlock the car, it should read 12.6v or higher (that indicates there's no parasitic drain). When you crank, the voltage should drop to 9.x volt momentarily (that indicates the battery is healthy).
03-10-2016, 09:12 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Innova just arrived and i plugged it in, we're at 12.54v with car locked sitting there and Innova shows a yellow light.
Car has been off for an hour or more while I had to clean the entire house before plugging in the device.
12.54v is just about where the battery was with the car off when I first got home. With the car running I was having difficulty getting a reading using the solar, almost like I had a poor connection and it would show a value then change to "---" and I had to move the alligator clamps around. Odd. Shut it down and the reading was constant 12.6v+ then slowly dropped.
Car has been off for an hour or more while I had to clean the entire house before plugging in the device.
12.54v is just about where the battery was with the car off when I first got home. With the car running I was having difficulty getting a reading using the solar, almost like I had a poor connection and it would show a value then change to "---" and I had to move the alligator clamps around. Odd. Shut it down and the reading was constant 12.6v+ then slowly dropped.
03-10-2016, 09:39 PM
#20
It's temperature dependent but typically fully charged is ~12.6v so 12.54v is not that bad. I would say it's ~80% charged. Let's see if it stays the same overnight and see the voltage when you're driving the car.
The BA7 is very sensitive to the contacts. "---" means unstable voltage per the manual here
http://www.cloreautomotive.com/uploa...41-029-000.pdf
I assume you entered the correct CCA before running the battery test? What CCA value it reads and is it close to the CCA spec of the battery? For a new battery it should read a bit ABOVE the spec, maybe 10% or so.
The BA7 is very sensitive to the contacts. "---" means unstable voltage per the manual here
http://www.cloreautomotive.com/uploa...41-029-000.pdf
I assume you entered the correct CCA before running the battery test? What CCA value it reads and is it close to the CCA spec of the battery? For a new battery it should read a bit ABOVE the spec, maybe 10% or so.
03-10-2016, 10:09 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
All I did with the BA7 was attach it to get a voltage reading WITH engine running and it produced --- in between the flashes of voltage readings. No tests performed.
03-10-2016, 10:55 PM
#22
You cannot connect it cold while engine is running because it expects to see only battery voltage at boot up.
03-11-2016, 12:43 AM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Yes!
03-11-2016, 07:21 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
11.21v in the AM. High 13v during driving with accessories on.
03-11-2016, 07:32 PM
#25
11.21v BEFORE you disarmed the car, right?
If yes, it appears that you have a very high parasitic drain (11.21v is like 10% left). Assume from 80% to 10% in 24hrs with a 80Ah battery, that's 2.3A
Any aftermarket electronics on the car? I suggest repeat the test for one more day and see if it's consistent. Also you can use the BA7 tester to check the CCA of the battery to see if the battery is good.
If yes, it appears that you have a very high parasitic drain (11.21v is like 10% left). Assume from 80% to 10% in 24hrs with a 80Ah battery, that's 2.3A
Any aftermarket electronics on the car? I suggest repeat the test for one more day and see if it's consistent. Also you can use the BA7 tester to check the CCA of the battery to see if the battery is good.
03-12-2016, 12:28 AM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Yes 11ish in AM. Will repeat tonight....no aftermkt electronics. Oy vey.
Last edited by ALEV8; 03-12-2016 at 01:20 AM.
03-12-2016, 09:29 AM
#27
Hate to veer a little off topic, but I am replacing my battery on my 2011 spyder. I see suncoast has two batteries listed, one at 730 CCA and one at 740CCA. They say to match the CCA to your battery. Is that really necessary? I have heard that Walmart batteries are decent, but the battery they list for my car is over 800 CCA. That shouldn't really be detrimental, should it?
03-12-2016, 10:52 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
Hate to veer a little off topic, but I am replacing my battery on my 2011 spyder. I see suncoast has two batteries listed, one at 730 CCA and one at 740CCA. They say to match the CCA to your battery. Is that really necessary? I have heard that Walmart batteries are decent, but the battery they list for my car is over 800 CCA. That shouldn't really be detrimental, should it?
03-12-2016, 02:52 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
12.25v this AM, locked doors left glass down and sunroof lifted. I checked then unlocked, then started but forgot to check CCA. Cold cranking has been fine lately. I will check. Wally has been sold out of batteries.