Total FUBAR
02-17-2016, 04:45 PM
#31
Instructor
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lone Star
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bought the Ctek and connected to emergency terminal in fuse box and door latch. how long does it take to get enough power to open hood? should it just work immediately?
02-17-2016, 04:53 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
02-17-2016, 06:07 PM
#36
Three Wheelin'
No biggie. Previous owner of one my BMW stripped the aluminum oil pan. I had to use a time-sert and basically redrill the hole. Now I have a steel insert in an aluminum pan so hopefully it'll never strip again.
As an added note, I change the oil drain plug every 2-3 oil changes depending on how it's looking. You should be able to get it out no problem.
I'd probably have just dremeled one slot on the side and hit it with screw driver and hammer like a cog.
As an added note, I change the oil drain plug every 2-3 oil changes depending on how it's looking. You should be able to get it out no problem.
I'd probably have just dremeled one slot on the side and hit it with screw driver and hammer like a cog.
02-17-2016, 06:36 PM
#37
Yet another reason I love Porsche/these forums: the DIY ethos of many of the owners. I would never purchase a sports car without knowing that the car had a significant online community surrounding it.
02-17-2016, 09:03 PM
#38
Burning Brakes
Porsche's 997 Workshop Manual, procedure 17 01 55 Engine oil and oil filter change - as of MY 2005, attached. Oil drain plug tightening torque 37 ftlb, page 524. Oil filter housing tightening torque 19 ftlb, page 525.
Yes many will change the oil without a torque wrench. At the factory Porsche does not though. They build the car with specs on just about every nut and bolt. It's not often that manufacturers will publish the build torque specifications.
Yes many will change the oil without a torque wrench. At the factory Porsche does not though. They build the car with specs on just about every nut and bolt. It's not often that manufacturers will publish the build torque specifications.
The monkeys at Jiffy Lube certainly don't use a torque wrench, what does that tell you?
02-17-2016, 09:53 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
Also, when a bolt/hex head, what ever, strips out, its usually easy to get out since the metal that stripped is pretty soft, hence the stripping....
02-17-2016, 10:00 PM
#40
OP - not your fault:
1. Torque wrench DID NOT CLICK. Faulty tool.
2. Instructions said use torque wrench. Faulty instructions.
Lesson learned - good instructions and good tools are valuable.
1. Torque wrench DID NOT CLICK. Faulty tool.
2. Instructions said use torque wrench. Faulty instructions.
Lesson learned - good instructions and good tools are valuable.
02-17-2016, 10:08 PM
#41
Rennlist Member
hey, anyone feels like extending this discussion to over tightening the (steel) bleeder nipple in your (aluminum) brake caliper? Oh, and while we're at it, let's include the (steel) caliper bolts which go into your (you guessed it - aluminum) upright. And why are always the expensive parts made out of aluminum and the cheap stuff out of steel?
02-17-2016, 10:34 PM
#42
Good points regarding the steel parts going into aluminum. Given the tendency for the factory aluminum drain plugs and the ECS magnetic plugs to strip, I'm going to purchase the drain plug below. It's the 18 X 1.5 thread, made of steel, and it's magnetic. Also uses a bigger 10mm hex
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161750235480?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161750235480?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
02-17-2016, 11:37 PM
#43
Burning Brakes
hey, anyone feels like extending this discussion to over tightening the (steel) bleeder nipple in your (aluminum) brake caliper? Oh, and while we're at it, let's include the (steel) caliper bolts which go into your (you guessed it - aluminum) upright. And why are always the expensive parts made out of aluminum and the cheap stuff out of steel?
02-18-2016, 05:33 AM
#44
If this is the worst thing that happens to you... you're winning.
Two things I do now after stripping many a fastener (I too was taught that tighter is better, I know better now).
1) torque wrenches are inaccurate at their lowest settings. So, either use a different range wrench, or test it after you set it at a low setting torque setting before trying it on the target fastener.
2) You actually want the drain plug to be made of softer material than the pan. If somethings going to strip have it be the plug and not the more expensive pan. I'd replace it with a Porsche plug, it's soft enough, but not too soft. I think the steel plug is a bad idea.
Two things I do now after stripping many a fastener (I too was taught that tighter is better, I know better now).
1) torque wrenches are inaccurate at their lowest settings. So, either use a different range wrench, or test it after you set it at a low setting torque setting before trying it on the target fastener.
2) You actually want the drain plug to be made of softer material than the pan. If somethings going to strip have it be the plug and not the more expensive pan. I'd replace it with a Porsche plug, it's soft enough, but not too soft. I think the steel plug is a bad idea.
02-18-2016, 06:02 AM
#45
Worst case scenario, buy another oil pan and drain plug. But try to fill the stripped hole with aluminum foil, JB weld, then hex bolt, then make deep cuts with dremel tool for a flat head, then reverse drill it with an extractor.
To make you feel better, I parked way off in the nose bleed section of Home Depot In my TR. When I went to drive off, I hit the fiberglass spoiler on the parking spot concrete block.......cracked. I parked, walked back into HD, bought some fiberglass, resin and black BBQ semi gloss paint. When doing the repairs I noticed various other repairs once the paint was removed. By nightfall, the lower spoiler was perfect. Saving $1400 on a repo part and ????? on original.