Jastx

I received a set of lobster claws as a gift to use for other tires. They're quite nice with black painted centers and silver edges. Two of the wheels (not the one in the photo) have some road rash on the edge.

Can anyone offer advice on specific paint and procedures for a do-it-myself repair?

Thanks!

gopirates

You may want to take them to a person who reconditions wheels. That is your best bet to insure the repair can be seamless with the other wheels.

By the way, will you provide some specifics on those Fuchs style wheels you have now?Those are hawt!

OKB

the lip may be polished. And the whole wheel should be clearcoated which is powdercoat. If it is not powdercoat, you cant put tires on them because the tire machine and the tire will peal the clear. Paint isnt hard enough. Only way you could fix them is to polish the lip and leave bare.

Wolfk

If the outer lip is painted, I have actually had success using rattle can wheel paint from auto parts store. You will want to fill the gouges with bondo if they are too deep to sand out. Follow the directions on the can and you can achieve good results. I have done this numerous times on my wife's car (no comments). Tires mounted and dismounted and finish is holding up well. Is powder coat more durable than rattle can paint? Yes. But after three winter seasons, her wheels still look good.

Kuhl997.2!

If I may make a long winded suggestion: I would refinish the outer lips on all your wheels so they all look the same. As a few members have pointed out spray paint from a can is not particularly durable but if you take your time and use a clear coat over the paint the finish will come out very professional looking and can last a very long time. Also, most good automotive paint shop can actually make up a catalyzed spray can that is much more durable and of higher quality for about $25-35 a can.

A couple of tips when using spay paint: Always degrease the surface with a good wax and grease remover, sand the surface until smooth and finish using decreasing grit sand paper 120,220,360 & 600. Some people like to use Scotch Bright pads but I prefer sand paper. After sanding wipe the surface down with the wax and grease remover. If using a spray can like Dupli-color or Automotive Touch Up (an on line spray can company that sells really good quality spray can paint) shake and shake and shake for 2 minutes,seriously. Use several up to four super light coats just enough to change to color and gloss the previous spray. Wait at least 5 minutes between coats ( I like to set my iPhone for 10 minute intervals). Silver usually requires a top coat. I prefer to top coat the following day but you can top coat after a couple of hours. Before you top coat make sure the surface is dry and use a tack cloth to pick up any dust or debris that has settled on your work. Again shake and shake and shake the top coat for a couple of minutes and apply several light glossy coats.

For your wheels :
I would polish the wheel face with a good paint restorative polish like Euro Tech 7000. Degrease and de-wax the lip surface. Crudely tape the spoke area you are not planning on re-painting so you don't damage the paint while you are working on the lips. Carefully sand and repair any damaged area on the lip. Remove the tape and again clean the surface with the cleaner again. Make sure the area you have been working in and are planing or painting in have been thoroughly cleaning and purchase some painters paper for painting on. Here is going to be the trickiest part ,taping off the edge you want painted. I highly recommend using 3M 471 painters tape. It is a vinyl tape that will leave an extremely sharp paint line. The tape is semi-translucent so not only do you see the edge you are taping but you can see through it if you have taped too much. Once you have the wheel's edges taped off,cover the rest of the wheel so you are only painting the wheel lip and then proceed with painting as I have out lined above. One last note if you are painting over bare metal you will need to apply a couple of coats of primer or primer sealer first. Because primers tend to build quickly follow my tips of shaking well and spaying light coats. You may top coat with the paint after the primer is dry but if you lightly wet sand the primer with the 600 grit paper you will get a finer finish, but remember to use the wax remover and tack cloth before top coating. It may sound like a lot of work but it goes pretty fast you just have to be patient during the process and the satisfaction of doing it your self is really invaluable Please find a list of supplies:

Sand Paper: 120,220,360,600(wet dry for the 600) Grit
Sanding Block: StiKit 3M backing block or Motor Guard sanding block set
Painter Masking Paper
3M 471 tape
3M green tape
Wax and grease remover
Tack cloth for wiping down just before painting and just before top coating
Primer
Paint
Gloss top coat (usually want to use same brand)

Cheers Paul

Jastx

Thanks for the replies everyone. Paul, the instructions and detail you provided were especially appreciated.

The silver edge is a painted finish. Not worth doing unless it's done right, so I'll either take it on and spend the time it requires or have it done.

Jastx

Gopirates, thanks for the compliment. I bought the car in August and they came with it. They are Fuchs Performance FP-1s, dropped forged. The original owner custom ordered them with satin paddles and barrels with Carrera White paint to match the car. Fuchs Performance has since gone out of business, with Wheel Enhancements owning the remaining forged blanks. In fact, this set was actually made for Wheel Enhancements by HRE for the original owner. I learned that from Wheel Enhancements. Probably the only set like it. I like their classic look, like my former '73 911T and '89 930 (see pics in my signature). Unfortunately, the "hand painted" crests are starting to lose their red and black paint. I need to address that.