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When I put the key into the ignition of my 2006 C2S there is usually a very audible"click" sound that comes from the dash, steering column and maybe even the console. Every now and then if it doesn't make this click sound - when I turn the key for ignition nothing happens. I have to either turn the key all the way back to the initial position and try again or even take the key out and start over. I'm mindful to make sure that the clutch is pushed all the way to the floor. Could this be the battery in the key going dead? Or something else?
I had similar behavior, especially in cold weather.
I fixed it by simply sparying some WD-40 on the ignition key and inserting it and pulling it out, with rotations a few times. Do the spraying a couple of times, until the key slides in and out and turns very freely.
Thanks to both of you guys. I will definitely try the WD40 first. But prepare for the worst. I can see it going bad for the final time somewhere very inconvienent!
Thanks to both of you guys. I will definitely try the WD40 first. But prepare for the worst. I can see it going bad for the final time somewhere very inconvienent!
With keys you should never use a liquid lubricant like WD-40. It may help now but can result in gumming things up worse later. Use a dry graphite powder lubricant made especially for keys and locks, available at any home improvement store. You stick the tip up to the lock and give it a quick squeeze to puff it in. It looks like this:
When I put the key into the ignition of my 2006 C2S there is usually a very audible"click" sound that comes from the dash, steering column and maybe even the console. Every now and then if it doesn't make this click sound - when I turn the key for ignition nothing happens. I have to either turn the key all the way back to the initial position and try again or even take the key out and start over. I'm mindful to make sure that the clutch is pushed all the way to the floor. Could this be the battery in the key going dead? Or something else?
Battery in key only affects the remote...has nothing to do with the transponder chip in the key. As others haves said, probably a switch problem.
Dang. That's certainly an unexpected outcome. Sorry. I assume that the battery hasn't gone dead which can cause this.
Here is the emergency key removal procedure that will normally work... it's in the manual on page 76 but here's a copy in case you don't have one available.
No worries - I fully expected to hear "you probably put too much!".
So I found that same info in another thread and finally got it out. You really have to hit that hole just right - save the jokes until after I get this figured out and we will all have a good laugh together. A flashlight helps.
I sprayed the hole out with a little canned air hoping to clear excess graphite if necessary. Put the key back in and it stuck again. Got it out. Put key 2 in and it came out but didn't make the "click" and couldn't start the car. Took key 2 in and out a couple of times and the third time it stuck, too.
I probably just killed the switch don't you think? Just order a replacement from Pelican?
As Crossfire190 pointed out in the first response your ignition switch was probably going bad in the first place and has probably died. Hopefully the graphite didn't hasten its death. I am not familiar with what to from here, so I'll just play it safe and wait for someone with greater experience to help you out.
Good luck!
Please verify? the click is associated mechanically with the turning of the key? or does the click happen after the key is turned?
If it happens 1/2 second after... It could be the steering column lock. On this car the steering column lock is electrically operated. There is a pin that locks the steering. If you turn the wheel after the car is off (like you use the steering wheel as a handle to exit the car) the wheel turns a little and puts pressure on the pin. The next time you start the car when the pin releases it makes a snapping noise.
If you can determine that this is what is happening you should stop using the steering wheel as an exit handle. Eventually you'll burn out the solenoid that operates the steering lock pin. BMW had a problem with this in the early 2000s.
It happens before the key is turned. When you insert the key. I don't think it is associated with the steering wheel lock. As it sits there now the steering wheel isn't locked - but when I put the key in it won't come out unless I use the pin.
About to order the replacement ignition switch from Pelican and now looking for the DIY to replace it when it arrives.
A poor battery will lock the key into the ignition. Make sure you have at least 12+ volts.
The click is the steering lock. I hear this on my 997.2 when I take the key out as well as when I put the key in. Sometimes I need to rock the key just a bit when I insert it to get the click, but that happens naturally when I turn the key to start the motor anyway.
I am not sure why the two keys respond differently but if you tried the experiment 100 times the results might approach each other. If the battery is bad the prox sensors won't work and a lot of bizarre can happen.
I hooked the trickle charger up to it and will see what happens. I don;t have a volt meter to check for 12+ v. I went ahead and ordered the ignition switch. I think either way that was going to eventually be an issue. Could be two unrelated things happening at once I guess.
01-29-2015, 08:01 AM
Key "Click" to Get Car to Start
