rossdono

Nice, let us know how it goes. Black 997 here, so similar issues with swirls/ hairlines in certain light. Problems of black cars

Ezkill

Bruce,

That's a really odd comment unless you are being sarcastic and it's just too early for me to tell that you're being facetious.

Claying is nothing like wet sanding unless you're coating the clay bar or nano skin with sand. Proper claying does not leave marks, does not change the thickness of the clear coat and will not put micro scratches in the clear. I clay all my vehicles on a semi regular basis before re-waxing or sealing. You won't find a micro scratch on any of them.

Bruce In Philly

I threw that in there to provoke..... it worked!

I have a "thing" against claying.... I scratched my hood when a chunk of something was caught in the clay. It worked out in that a week later, a storm blew a screen down onto my hood and I got a whole new hood.

Anyway, clay is sand..... while folks don't think of it that way, you are wet sanding. The whole thing about clay only grabbing contaminants is only part of the story. You are wet sanding. If your intent is to wet sand, claying is not that effective and you should use standard wet sanding techniques, but, claying is wet sanding. Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit I believe.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Ezkill

Well, I guess it worked? I'm not provoked, just wanted to understand your comment. I can see why you would have this opinion and while I don't really agree you are certainly entitled to it. I do agree that it is somewhat pointless to clay a car that will be wet sanded. I just don't think his car needs wet sanding. From the pictures it looks like it will "Buff right out" with no pun intended.

RichAA

I would wet sand my car only if I was prepping it for new paint.

For a scratch like that, I would use my random orbit polisher with mildly aggressive compound (Meguiar's Fine Cut cleaner or maybe Medium Cut cleaner) on an orange pad around and along the scratch. Then the rest of the car with Fine Cut cleaner, Swirl Remover or Mirror Glaze. Then Show Car glaze and then wax. This is a significant investment, but the polisher and pads will be useful for many years and many cars. I use mine a lot and it's great.

If the scratch is still visible (it will be less for sure), I take it to a good detailer. After that, live with it or get it painted.

My point is that the more aggressive I go, the more potential for damage, and I don't want to be looking at what I did and wishing I hadn't started. I would work up to it slowly, not start heavy and back off.

Iceter

As fragile as my paint seems to be and as easy as it is to go through not only the clearcoat but the color coat and primer, I would guess that there's not a wole lot of clear sprayed on a 997 to begin with--and that would scare me off of wet-sanding.

I was recommended a product by a guy on a Mustang forum who does really good paintwork and specializes in restoring Cobra Jets. It's called SureFinish and it's much better than any compound I've ever used--including 3M. Much less work and much better results. It's a great product for use on both light scratches and scratches that are right on the dividing line between buffable and those that need to be sanded out. You can use it with a machine or by hand.

Here's the SureFinish and no, I have absolutely no connection with the company.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=M3

There's also alot of good information on that website (Autobodystore.com) about wet sanding, color sanding buffing and waxing.