Front Trunk Not Opening
#1
Front Trunk Not Opening
Dead battery - my fault. Tried hooking up a battery to the red plug in the fuse box but the frunk wouldn't open. Removed the drivers side wheel arch and pulled on the cable but no luck. Not certain where to go from here. Any suggestions? Can I remove the front bumper and get at the latch mechanism?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Dead battery - my fault. Tried hooking up a battery to the red plug in the fuse box but the frunk wouldn't open. Removed the drivers side wheel arch and pulled on the cable but no luck. Not certain where to go from here. Any suggestions? Can I remove the front bumper and get at the latch mechanism?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Shaun_904GTS (03-23-2020)
#5
I had the same issue. Hood opened with the key fob but not interior button. Apparently the hood/trunk button inside the car has a little plastic piece on the inside that is known to break. I ended up replacing the whole switch and now it works like new.
#6
Broken Switch Board
My frunk switch went bad, but it was an electrical connection on the circuit board. I disassembled it and tried some continuity tests, and found that there was a break in the connection between the front and back. Apparently the signal passes from one side to another through a "Plated through hole", but it did not pass the signal. I heated the hole with a soldering iron and dripped a little solder in there and presto - the switch worked again.
The switch and related board was simple enough that I did not need any real electronics background to understand what was going wrong there.
-Chris
The switch and related board was simple enough that I did not need any real electronics background to understand what was going wrong there.
-Chris
#7
My interior button normally works, but it wouldn't work with a dead battery even though I had a jumper on the fuse box connection. The key fob did work. Don't know why the button didn't work, but I'm more concerned that pulling the cable inside the wheel well didn't work either. I traced the cable to inside the frunk behind the locking mechanism and here's a picture of what I found. It was taken looking down on the cable and the cable is connected to a white plastic hose. The hose goes towards the drivers side headlight. I don't see how the cable could unlock the frunk. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I'm wondering if the cable is supposed to go through that grommet and then attach to the locking mechanism? That end of the cable can be seen by just pulling the frunk liner back by the latching mechanism.
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#9
Hope I'm not beating a dead horse here, but I think I have the answer. I accessed the cable on the left side of the car and it indeed terminates onto the plastic hose. I looked into the latch mechanism and can see a cable that would work the latch and it's running to the right hand side of the car. I haven't removed the right hand side wheel liner, but I suspect there's a cable pull there that actually works. Perhaps the one on the left hand side is for right hand drive cars.
#10
Hope I'm not beating a dead horse here, but I think I have the answer. I accessed the cable on the left side of the car and it indeed terminates onto the plastic hose. I looked into the latch mechanism and can see a cable that would work the latch and it's running to the right hand side of the car. I haven't removed the right hand side wheel liner, but I suspect there's a cable pull there that actually works. Perhaps the one on the left hand side is for right hand drive cars.
#12
Jhbrennan - if that's correct then mine is different. The cable on the drivers side doesn't do anything as it terminates outside of the release mechanism. The cable that's attached to the release mechanism appears to run to the passenger side. I haven't removed the passenger side wheel and wheel arch to verify this.
#13
Resurrecting a really old thread because it captures the issue I am experiencing.
Would anyone know the part number for the switch?
Anyone know where the circuit board is located?
My frunk switch went bad, but it was an electrical connection on the circuit board. I disassembled it and tried some continuity tests, and found that there was a break in the connection between the front and back. Apparently the signal passes from one side to another through a "Plated through hole", but it did not pass the signal. I heated the hole with a soldering iron and dripped a little solder in there and presto - the switch worked again.
The switch and related board was simple enough that I did not need any real electronics background to understand what was going wrong there.
-Chris
The switch and related board was simple enough that I did not need any real electronics background to understand what was going wrong there.
-Chris