tigerspill

Hi,
How easy is it to remove the wheel arch liners to allow the application of a rust proofing agent such as Waxoyl?
Thx
TS

StormRune

I watched a documentary on the factory manufacturing process for a 997 Porsche earlier this year. Porsche does a good job of rustproofing the car as part of the paint preparation process. The actually dip the entire chassis multiple times in a pool of rustproofing solution.

Searching the web seems to confirm that this is true for all of the models in recent years, except for the GT3 variations for weight-reduction reasons.

tigerspill

My concern is that muck and dirt gets thrown up behind the liners over the years and holds the moisture.
I have a BMW 3 series which is also well treated I believe and the wings are now rotten.

StormRune

It is certainly your call. But if you are interested in seeing how the factory rustproofing is applied and what it is, I found the video on YouTube here: . The part about the dip starts around the 4 minute mark. I didn't even recall that the dip also includes an electrostatic charge that improves adhesion.

I know that in the old days aftermarket rustproofing could actually cause as many problems as it fixed, anyplace the slightest gap was left caused water retention just like you are worried about and it was virtually impossible to get 100% adhesion. If you have any concerns about resale value, then I would think this would become a negative if a buyer discovered it as part of the PPI.

But like I said, you know your area better than I do (although I can't tell where that is). If you are in the far north, then maybe other far northerners could pitch in their opinion as well. I'm in Texas, so what the heck do I know... we hardly get another liquid water much less snow and ice! (Although I did live in Colorado in my pre-Porsche days).

helispud

I've never taken the plastic liners off but I don't believe it's too much of a job. There are a few threads on removing the front bumper cover that show how the front liners are removed.

USMC_DS1

It's easy to remove the liners. Remove the tires 1st and then remove the screws holding the liner in place. FWIW, I removed my front liners during the 3rd rad installation and to access the frunk release... easiest part of the project.

Macster

Shouldn't be too hard to remove the liners.

But there's no need to apply any messy rust proofing.

As others have pointed out the cars are very rust resistant.

Also, I've had the liners off my Boxster (and Turbo) several times and there's no muck up there. While you have a 997 I doubt there's any significant difference.

All I've done after driving a car in standing water or in snow/ice with or without salt/sand mixed in is to afterwards with a garden hose give the under side of the car a thorough rinsing. No need to really crank up the water pressure just dial in a good flow to ensure adequate flushing/rinsing to remove any muck and residual salt is all that is necessary.

tigerspill

Thanks for your help folks.

KNS

Porsche has been "dipping" its cars since the mid '70s, (pretty much the same process as seen in the above video). Given the right (er, wrong) conditions, the newer ones will rust too. I'm certain that by now there are 996s to be found in the Northeast and upper Midwest with tell-tale bubbling.

DOOBEE

I don't think it's a bad idea. More corrosion protection is better IMO. They salt the roads heavily here in the winters and oiling definitely helps prevent corrosion in my experience. Factory protection just isn't enough for a winter driven car if you want 5+ years out of it. Aside from the mess it's the access holes that shops drill that concern me and should be avoided. If you're spraying yourself you should be fine but the spray bomb doesn't cover as well as a pro set up. With enough parts removed (underbody trays, bumpers, lights, liners, etc.) you could get pretty thorough access.

I don't even drive my 911 in the winter but I've considered oiling it.

BIG smoke

I have also thought about rustproofing or oiling. It's not the Porsche galvanized parts that concern me. Its the little bolts and screws that make me crazy. The headlight adjustment screw, the bumper pin that snaps. That stuff makes me madder than I already am.

Spiffyjiff

speaking of rust...can anyone chime in with how much aluminum vs. steel (vs. carbon?) are in our cars? oddly, i am quite stupid when it comes to this. i'm pretty sure the GT's have more carbon (the rear deck lids and wings come to mind) and i think our hoods are alum, but that's about all i know. i could prob find out a little more by simply taking a magnet and poking around.

don't flame, just educate.

USMC_DS1

I've seen a reference to the frunk hood being made of aluminum in the "Porsche 911 Story" book but not so much the other panels.

San Rensho

I wouldn't rust proof. Part of rustproofing from the factory includes drain holes, large and small, to drain water from internal structures. If you add additional rustproofing, theres a good chance you will block the drain holes which will then cause rust.

I have yet to read a post on this or any other P car forum about body panel rust, so I really don't think its a problwm.

wc11

997 hood is aluminum.
Turbo's also use aluminum hoods & doors & I believe the GT2''s are as well.