DIY: OBDII Drive Cycle for 997
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
DIY: OBDII Drive Cycle for 997
I've had nothing but issues this weekend attempting to get my 997 to pass emissions here in Ontario, Canada. I had to replace my fuel filler cap and then clear the codes in the ECU meaning I lost all readiness codes. I'm on my second attempt and if the below doesn't work again then off to Porsche tomorrow am.
Searching on Rennlist came up with no specific drive cycle for the 997 but some in the 993 section have said its the same process:
In Detail:
What to do:
Get an OBDII reader
Check for any error codes
Check the status of the monitors
If you do not want to buy one, ask at an auto parts store. Some will test you for free.
If your CEL light is not on you should not be showing any errors.
If you just replaced the battery, of the 8 monitors, 5 will probably show "incl" (incomplete) and 3 will show "OK". You will need all 8 showing "OK" to pass.
Drive Cycle Steps:
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH or 32-48km/h, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH or 64-96km/h, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins
Decelerate and come to a stop
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins (manual trans)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph (96km/h)
It may mean doing the drive cycle twice. You have to lug the motor and not exceed 3k RPM or 60 MPH (some say 55 MPH) at any point. The long idle at the end seems to be particularly important.
One more thing:
When using the OBDII reader, if you get a communication error, make sure the immobilizer is deactivated. If the immobilizer is active (where you could not start the car) it messes with the reader's ability to communicate with the car.
Searching on Rennlist came up with no specific drive cycle for the 997 but some in the 993 section have said its the same process:
In Detail:
What to do:
Get an OBDII reader
Check for any error codes
Check the status of the monitors
If you do not want to buy one, ask at an auto parts store. Some will test you for free.
If your CEL light is not on you should not be showing any errors.
If you just replaced the battery, of the 8 monitors, 5 will probably show "incl" (incomplete) and 3 will show "OK". You will need all 8 showing "OK" to pass.
Drive Cycle Steps:
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH or 32-48km/h, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH or 64-96km/h, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins
Decelerate and come to a stop
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins (manual trans)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph (96km/h)
It may mean doing the drive cycle twice. You have to lug the motor and not exceed 3k RPM or 60 MPH (some say 55 MPH) at any point. The long idle at the end seems to be particularly important.
One more thing:
When using the OBDII reader, if you get a communication error, make sure the immobilizer is deactivated. If the immobilizer is active (where you could not start the car) it messes with the reader's ability to communicate with the car.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For my 2nd attempt at this procedure it worked like a charm.
I followed each step almost to the tee, never went above 3,000rpms, never above 96 km/h and idled for 5 mins afterwards. Passed emissions with no Not Ready statuses.
I followed each step almost to the tee, never went above 3,000rpms, never above 96 km/h and idled for 5 mins afterwards. Passed emissions with no Not Ready statuses.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jan 2007
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I had an issue with my ECU not being ready after a reset and then failing the emissions inspection. So I drove my car around normally for a couple of days. Probably about 20 miles. Then I passed. It would appear that this "drive cycle" with all the detailed parameters is an articulation of normal driving. Which seems to work just fine.
#5
Race Director
I had an issue with my ECU not being ready after a reset and then failing the emissions inspection. So I drove my car around normally for a couple of days. Probably about 20 miles. Then I passed. It would appear that this "drive cycle" with all the detailed parameters is an articulation of normal driving. Which seems to work just fine.
I have found a reasonable mix of driving to be sufficient. The wrong approach is to assume the car needs to be really thrashed. This delays the readiness monitor completion.
One caution is based on my last emission test which my car failed is not only should the engine/exhaust be fully up to temperature -- and I drove around with the A/C off -- is the car needs to be driven on the highway some distance before the test.
The first test my car failed at both 15mph and 25mph with hydrocarbon (HC) readings just over the high limit.
I was surprised. So were the two techs at a Porsche dealer where I have the car serviced. Both told me that absent any hard converter errors, of which there were none, that their advice would be to take the car out and drive it then retest.
I headed out and after around 40 to 50 miles of mostly highway driving then right back to the test station and the car passed with HC readings less than half the previous failing readings.
The problem is I have been using the Boxster for around town driving and due to family responsibilities I have not had the time to take it out on the highway for any distance.
#7
Seems like a common problem, I too am "not ready", drove around for 20 minutes but did not follow this drive cycle. I'll give this driving under 3,000RPM and 60mph a shot. I was driving too fast. lol.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Freakin 2014 post...here I was thinking Cam went back from a 991 to a 997 :P