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Last week when changing oil I noticed my coolant level was low (about 1/4 inch below min) and there was crud around the seam of the bleeder valve. I've had no error messages or warnings, and coolant temp is always 175 after warm up. My water pump was replaced about a year ago.
I cleaned it off and after driving for a week the level seems about the same and there is a very very light buildup of crud. A few questions:
1. Could having the old .01 type coolant cap have anything to do with this? I have a newer .04 rep to replace it with.
2. OK to top off with distilled water for now? I don't want to spend a bunch on P coolant if I'm gonna end up replacing tank anyways.
3. Do I need to do any sort of bleed procedure to top off correctly?
Looks like your bleeder valve has got a leak mate.
Forgot to mention I had tightened the screws, with the exception of the back corner one which is hard to get too. Didn't tighten too much for fear of messing something up. The only reason I asked about the cap is because the guy at the parts shop thought that may have something to do with it. I haven't read about anyone replacing just the valve....has anyone done this?
Looks like your bleeder valve has got a leak mate.
I would agree with that. While a new bleeder valve can be ordered, replacing the coolant tank , which includes a new bleeder valve , would be my approach. Not sure if they come with a new cap but it should also be replaced with version 4 while you're at it.
Agree with everyone above about considering replacement of the whole tank, especially since it seems like only a matter of time before they fail (wish I had known when I had the water pump replaced).
I'd hate to replace the whole thing if it's something simple like an O-ring in the bleeder valve that I could potentially DIY myself though.
I recommend you replace the tank. I just did the job on Saturday and it only took a couple hours. The tech article by Pelican Parts made the job pretty easy. I did have to lower the engine because there isn't much room in the C4 engine bay to wiggle it out.
I rebuilt my bleeder valve about two months ago. I replaced the two o-rings and the eight bolts on top. It stopped the crud build-up, but I noticed a leak in the tank last week. Once I pulled it out, the leak was in the exact spot as BIG Smoke's. The original tank lasted just over 77k miles.
Thanks. That's a great DIY. I'm probably gonna top of with distilled water, tighten the bolts a smidge, and take it to get replaced if I see the level drop at all again.
I too am planning to flush coolant & change out tank & cap and was wondering if there are any hoses that should be swapped out for new? 2007 C2 with 60K mi no track. Thx
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