Coolant for our cars?
03-31-2014, 12:54 PM
#18
The Porsche part number in the 997.2 PET for antifreeze is 000 043 301 05 for the gallon container.
Below is the link for Pentofrost ++
http://pentosin.net/pressreleases/CR...frost_++_2.pdf
Since the OEM P/N 000 043 301 05 is listed in the above publication then I assume Pentosin Pentofrost ++ is fine for our cars.
Rich
2009 C2S Coupe
Below is the link for Pentofrost ++
http://pentosin.net/pressreleases/CR...frost_++_2.pdf
Since the OEM P/N 000 043 301 05 is listed in the above publication then I assume Pentosin Pentofrost ++ is fine for our cars.
Rich
2009 C2S Coupe
Last edited by DGrayling; 03-31-2014 at 12:57 PM. Reason: .
03-31-2014, 05:02 PM
#20
Drifting
04-01-2014, 09:51 AM
#21
Three Wheelin'
"Your cooling system MUST be pressurized to increase boiling point and prevent local overheating, particularly in cylinder area. "
+1
So you need proper equipment to ensure the system is full and no air is in it. Also, buy the good stuff, it will last at least 3-5 years.
Peanuts compared to the property taxes in the Village
+1
So you need proper equipment to ensure the system is full and no air is in it. Also, buy the good stuff, it will last at least 3-5 years.
Peanuts compared to the property taxes in the Village
04-01-2014, 11:20 AM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Got "the good stuff" (Pentosin) and am at the shop as we speak. And re: property taxes: Ha! Sheesh. Too true. Anyhow, I'll let you guys know how it comes out. If the cars here are any indication of the trust their owners have put in this shop, I should be fine.
Cheers,
Mick
Cheers,
Mick
04-01-2014, 03:40 PM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just got "the call" from Tony.
He says that, indeed, the pump is leaking, but so is the reservoir. Also, the small hose going into the pump needs to be replaced. So, add a new hose, reservoir, cap and level sensor to the list. He estimates the car being ready by tomorrow afternoon.
He says that, indeed, the pump is leaking, but so is the reservoir. Also, the small hose going into the pump needs to be replaced. So, add a new hose, reservoir, cap and level sensor to the list. He estimates the car being ready by tomorrow afternoon.
04-07-2014, 12:16 PM
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
Good morning, all.
Well, I picked up the car on Friday and all is now well. Here's what all was replaced:
1) Water pump - leak at/around weep hole (FYI, the blades were completely intact)
2) Low temperature thermostat - replaced to assist with managing impending Houston heat
3) Coolant reservoir (+ cap and level sensor) - 4" crack on the back
4) Hose(s) from pump to reservoir/rest of system - replaced for good measure
Cheers,
Mick
Well, I picked up the car on Friday and all is now well. Here's what all was replaced:
1) Water pump - leak at/around weep hole (FYI, the blades were completely intact)
2) Low temperature thermostat - replaced to assist with managing impending Houston heat
3) Coolant reservoir (+ cap and level sensor) - 4" crack on the back
4) Hose(s) from pump to reservoir/rest of system - replaced for good measure
Cheers,
Mick
04-07-2014, 09:06 PM
#27
Instructor
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Location: S.E. Wisconsin, U.S.A.
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If your cooling system has a good factory thermostat and water pump, is properly filled with coolant, and is still running hot/over heating, then you need the third radiator...not a lower temp thermostat.
As to which coolant to use...what about this stuff? I read about it on Leno's Garage. Jay swears by it...
http://www.evanscooling.com/
They claim that, at ambient pressure, it has a far higher boiling point than conventional coolant. That should eliminate any danger of cavitation, which is probably what is destroying those plastic water pump blades. It should also result in less (or none?) pressure in the system, which aught to make life far easier on the pump seals. I'm curious as to whether anyone has tried this stuff...
As to which coolant to use...what about this stuff? I read about it on Leno's Garage. Jay swears by it...
http://www.evanscooling.com/
They claim that, at ambient pressure, it has a far higher boiling point than conventional coolant. That should eliminate any danger of cavitation, which is probably what is destroying those plastic water pump blades. It should also result in less (or none?) pressure in the system, which aught to make life far easier on the pump seals. I'm curious as to whether anyone has tried this stuff...
04-07-2014, 11:40 PM
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
Water temp has never gone beyond 175 (does it ever? - or rather does the gauge ever show actual water temp?).
Oil temp (what I was/am concerned with) would max out at just over 225, sometimes under not a whole lot of load. Now that the system is up to snuff - with or without the low temp thermostat - the car is staying around 200, even after cruising at 110 with bursts up to 130 and 140. I'm darn happy with things now, needless to say.
Oil temp (what I was/am concerned with) would max out at just over 225, sometimes under not a whole lot of load. Now that the system is up to snuff - with or without the low temp thermostat - the car is staying around 200, even after cruising at 110 with bursts up to 130 and 140. I'm darn happy with things now, needless to say.
04-07-2014, 11:56 PM
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
And as far as swapping the thermostat out goes: I figured "Why not?" The part was $70. I wasn't charged any more than if only the pump work was done (as it's right next door). And if it does what it's supposed to...well...surely that can't hurt.
04-08-2014, 04:44 AM
#30
i really cannot understand the purpose of many in replacing the thermostat to a lower temp item. lower temp causes higher fuel consumption longer heat up times. keeping the thermostat at oem temps lets the engine warm up as designed. larger coolant capacity is the one that increases heat absorption and as with the third rad larger heat release and therefor a higher margin of safety for the engine. lowering the thermostat does not add capacity to a cars cooling system.