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Could this be an ignition switch issue or the key?

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Old 04-08-2014, 01:33 PM
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wwest
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Second "code" key nearby, maybe even on the same key ring?

Your key has 2 "code" sets, one for remote opening, unlocking the doors, another for anti-theft.
Old 04-08-2014, 05:28 PM
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Chrono
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Originally Posted by Macster
Try wiggling the key as you turn the switch or pressing in or trying to pull the key out just to vary the direction of the pressure present at the ignition switch.
This, I believe, is what was eventually starting the car, as opposed to my tribal dances around the door lock. I still think it's the switch.
My issue has since "disappeared", which means it will occur again at the most inopportune time.
Lots of good info in your post Macster, thanks.


Originally Posted by wwest
Second "code" key nearby, maybe even on the same key ring?.
Funny, that BECAME a problem after the fact. On the first occurrence, I didn't have my 2nd key. Later, when I did, I had the multiple transponder issues compounding the original issue.
Old 04-08-2014, 07:37 PM
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jhbrennan
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Originally Posted by Macster
It reads like the ignition switch. Do you hang a heavy key chain from the switch?

The starting process begins with an exchange of an ID via an RF link between the car's security system and the RFID pill in the key module. The key's battery plays no role in this exchange.

There is an RF signal beamed to the key. The ring around the ignition switch "hides" the antenna. This signal energizes the key's RFID pill which then transmits its ID. The security system processes this and if it agrees with one in its table of IDs allows the engine to start.

My 2nd hand info is the RFID pill either works or it doesn't. There can be some flakiness in the initial RF signal or in the return signal by the key RFID pill if the ignition switch has been messed with. But if no one has been at this then this is unlikely.

Try wiggling the key as you turn the switch or pressing in or trying to pull the key out just to vary the direction of the pressure present at the ignition switch. If you can cause any variation in the car's starting behavior then the ignition switch is the most likely culprit.

However, I note your car is equipped with a Tip. There could be a problem with the neutral or Park sensor so if the fooling with the switch doesn't seem to have any effect then the Tip and these sensors may be at the root of the symptom.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:15 PM
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wwest
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Originally Posted by Chrono
This, I believe, is what was eventually starting the car, as opposed to my tribal dances around the door lock. I still think it's the switch.
My issue has since "disappeared", which means it will occur again at the most inopportune time.
Lots of good info in your post Macster, thanks.




Funny, that BECAME a problem after the fact. On the first occurrence, I didn't have my 2nd key. Later, when I did, I had the multiple transponder issues compounding the original issue.
To clarify...a code key from a different car will/might also have an effect.
Old 04-10-2014, 04:57 PM
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Minok
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Yep, if you have an RFID chip nearby (eg on the keyring) that will respond to the ignition system RFID signal, it could cause problems. Even if that chips is not in a Porsche key.
Old 04-10-2014, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jellonailer
Mine was the clutch switch. Changed it and it works perfect.

If the clutch switch is out it does not always warn - "depress clutch"

Sometimes it just doesn't start. All good now.
My wife's car was also having problems starting, even with the clutch pushed all the way to the floor. It turned out to be the clutch switch, which the dealer replaced at no cost, and all is well now. It's like a $10 part and maybe 10 minutes labor.
Old 07-08-2014, 12:28 PM
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Spiffyjiff
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does anyone know if a PIWIS/recode is needed after changing an ignition switch? as i (think i) understand it, it's the RFID chip in the key that allows the ignition to unlock and for the car to start and that the slot itself can be turned by a simple blade. but does the ignition module store the correct "code" which allows starting? or does the module simply read the RFID and pass on the info to the ECU (which passes it back as accept or deny, etc)?

the workshop manual doesnt have any follow up procedures after the section on removing/installing the module (besides how to remove the key manually if it gets stuck in there).
Old 07-08-2014, 01:51 PM
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GSIRM3
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Originally Posted by dalancroft
My wife's car was also having problems starting, even with the clutch pushed all the way to the floor. It turned out to be the clutch switch, which the dealer replaced at no cost, and all is well now. It's like a $10 part and maybe 10 minutes labor.
I had the same problem on my 2012 GTS. Clutch interlock switch replaced last week and no problems since. Porsche had a service campaign on the faulty switches, but only ran through the 2011 model year. Mine is a 2012, but the switch failed in less than 9,000 miles.

Amazing that a $20.00 part can keep a $124,000 car from starting.
Old 07-11-2014, 06:35 PM
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Minok
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Originally Posted by Spiffyjiff
does anyone know if a PIWIS/recode is needed after changing an ignition switch? as i (think i) understand it, it's the RFID chip in the key that allows the ignition to unlock and for the car to start and that the slot itself can be turned by a simple blade. but does the ignition module store the correct "code" which allows starting? or does the module simply read the RFID and pass on the info to the ECU (which passes it back as accept or deny, etc)?

the workshop manual doesn't have any follow up procedures after the section on removing/installing the module (besides how to remove the key manually if it gets stuck in there).
I would expect the programmed/allowed key codes to be stored in the engine/computer/controller and not the key-switch, since you can pair new keys to the system, and putting all of that storage and handshaking technology in the key-switch seems like a bad idea. I'd expect the key switch to act only as the RFID sensor to receive the data from the key chip and pass it on to the engine computer, along with its switch position, and the computer in the bowels then authorizes the powering of the ignition.

Its also a better theft deterrent if the switch itself doesn't decide things, but rather a module much harder to get to inside the dash does that.



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