Suncoast Pedals Installed
#1
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Suncoast Pedals Installed
Got my Suncoast pedals the other day and got them installed yesterday! There are other install write-ups but I thought I would share a couple of tips...
First off, they are REALLY nice for $100. The rubber nubs are part of a rubber mat that covers the whole back of the pedal, so they can't just pop out, very durable looking! I read other posts that said they were nice, but the $100 price had me concerned. As you can see the biggest difference is the size of the pedals...much larger than stock on the brake and clutch. Since you're removing the stock rubber pedal covers on the brake and clutch, and putting the new pedal OVER the existing throttle, the net is the brake to throttle space is about 1cm closer. Combine that with the larger, sharper edged, grippier aluminum pedal and heel/toe is much easier and gets my foot in the right location. I do not see the need for the rennline type extension at all, absolutely no need. If you need to raise the throttle a little, just get some thin rubber or plastic and put it under the aluminum pedal and build it up as needed.
Install takes a little longer than 45 min if you take your time. A couple of tips...
Do the BRAKE FIRST! It's the hardest one to do since it's a metal pedal and there are things behind the face that make it difficult. Put tape on the metal as in the instructions, position and lightly mark the holes, then check how it's going to drill out. Pay close attention to the BOTTOM hole on the brake, drill it as close to the bottom as you can! If you drill it too high, it's a bitch to get a hold of the nut to tighten. Use a much smaller bit to drill a pilot hole, then the larger bit, much easier especially if your larger bit is not sharp. If you use duct tape, it will hold the smaller bit in position and get a hole started so you don't have to hunt down a punch. Once the bottom is drilled, put a bolt through, position and remark the top holes. You need some SMALL locking pliers OR I used some hemostats with a curved end (yet another use for them! ) Honestly I'm not sure you could get a hold of the nut with anything but some really small locking pliers.
Also having a small cordless drill makes it easier, variety of bit sizes. If you don't have the right size torx, an allen wrench works perfect on these bolt heads. Also blanket or pad is nice (or a cat)...you'll be on your knees longer than...well...someone that spends a lot of time on their knees.
Clutch lever/arm is plastic, so it's easy to drill and access the back. Now that you have the PITA brake done, you can line up the clutch pedal with more leeway. If you did the brake last you might hose yourself as there is not much room for adjustment. That and your patience for wedging yourself in the footwell for the hardest part of the job will certainly be waning at that point.
Dead pedal is easy, 3 screws. I put mine up just so the mat tucks under it, vs nudging or riding up on it.
Throttle, same thing, really easy. Place it a little higher than the mat. Now...something that was brought up on another thread, that I thought the mfg would have addressed...the TOP screw on the throttle has a sharp tip and protrudes way out the back. If you push the throttle all the way down you can clearly see/feel that the sharp screw will hit the plastic housing behind. Someone mentioned they were at a track day and punched the throttle and it STUCK TO THE FLOOR! I wouldn't have even considered this if I hadn't read it! But it's clearly possible or even likely, so trim that damn screw off!! Just mount it and check it, remove the screw, trim and reinstall. Why they're still shipping like this is a head scratcher! The online instructions show some flat tipped self tapping screws...mine came with stainless regular wood screws. So beware.
Sorry for the phone pics, don't really do them justice. I was afraid the silver might look a little "tuner" but when you open the door they look like they should have come on sports car like this..vs the stock ones that look like they're out a '78 LTD. And at least 10 HP gain per the coolness dyno.
First off, they are REALLY nice for $100. The rubber nubs are part of a rubber mat that covers the whole back of the pedal, so they can't just pop out, very durable looking! I read other posts that said they were nice, but the $100 price had me concerned. As you can see the biggest difference is the size of the pedals...much larger than stock on the brake and clutch. Since you're removing the stock rubber pedal covers on the brake and clutch, and putting the new pedal OVER the existing throttle, the net is the brake to throttle space is about 1cm closer. Combine that with the larger, sharper edged, grippier aluminum pedal and heel/toe is much easier and gets my foot in the right location. I do not see the need for the rennline type extension at all, absolutely no need. If you need to raise the throttle a little, just get some thin rubber or plastic and put it under the aluminum pedal and build it up as needed.
Install takes a little longer than 45 min if you take your time. A couple of tips...
Do the BRAKE FIRST! It's the hardest one to do since it's a metal pedal and there are things behind the face that make it difficult. Put tape on the metal as in the instructions, position and lightly mark the holes, then check how it's going to drill out. Pay close attention to the BOTTOM hole on the brake, drill it as close to the bottom as you can! If you drill it too high, it's a bitch to get a hold of the nut to tighten. Use a much smaller bit to drill a pilot hole, then the larger bit, much easier especially if your larger bit is not sharp. If you use duct tape, it will hold the smaller bit in position and get a hole started so you don't have to hunt down a punch. Once the bottom is drilled, put a bolt through, position and remark the top holes. You need some SMALL locking pliers OR I used some hemostats with a curved end (yet another use for them! ) Honestly I'm not sure you could get a hold of the nut with anything but some really small locking pliers.
Also having a small cordless drill makes it easier, variety of bit sizes. If you don't have the right size torx, an allen wrench works perfect on these bolt heads. Also blanket or pad is nice (or a cat)...you'll be on your knees longer than...well...someone that spends a lot of time on their knees.
Clutch lever/arm is plastic, so it's easy to drill and access the back. Now that you have the PITA brake done, you can line up the clutch pedal with more leeway. If you did the brake last you might hose yourself as there is not much room for adjustment. That and your patience for wedging yourself in the footwell for the hardest part of the job will certainly be waning at that point.
Dead pedal is easy, 3 screws. I put mine up just so the mat tucks under it, vs nudging or riding up on it.
Throttle, same thing, really easy. Place it a little higher than the mat. Now...something that was brought up on another thread, that I thought the mfg would have addressed...the TOP screw on the throttle has a sharp tip and protrudes way out the back. If you push the throttle all the way down you can clearly see/feel that the sharp screw will hit the plastic housing behind. Someone mentioned they were at a track day and punched the throttle and it STUCK TO THE FLOOR! I wouldn't have even considered this if I hadn't read it! But it's clearly possible or even likely, so trim that damn screw off!! Just mount it and check it, remove the screw, trim and reinstall. Why they're still shipping like this is a head scratcher! The online instructions show some flat tipped self tapping screws...mine came with stainless regular wood screws. So beware.
Sorry for the phone pics, don't really do them justice. I was afraid the silver might look a little "tuner" but when you open the door they look like they should have come on sports car like this..vs the stock ones that look like they're out a '78 LTD. And at least 10 HP gain per the coolness dyno.
#3
Great write up and it looks awesome!
But I'll never do this on my car. I once installed a Brabus pedal set on my AMG Benz and swore never again. The brake pedal on my Benz was metal too, which was a PITA to get right. Moreover, I simply found that I don't like drilling holes in my cars because it feels like I'm defacing them.
But I'll never do this on my car. I once installed a Brabus pedal set on my AMG Benz and swore never again. The brake pedal on my Benz was metal too, which was a PITA to get right. Moreover, I simply found that I don't like drilling holes in my cars because it feels like I'm defacing them.
#5
Drifting
Great write up and it looks awesome!
But I'll never do this on my car. I once installed a Brabus pedal set on my AMG Benz and swore never again. The brake pedal on my Benz was metal too, which was a PITA to get right. Moreover, I simply found that I don't like drilling holes in my cars because it feels like I'm defacing them.
But I'll never do this on my car. I once installed a Brabus pedal set on my AMG Benz and swore never again. The brake pedal on my Benz was metal too, which was a PITA to get right. Moreover, I simply found that I don't like drilling holes in my cars because it feels like I'm defacing them.
Tom
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Drove all day today with them. Really like the feel! Drove my buddy's cayman today as well with stock pedals and my buddy drove mine... Also really liked the feel and easier heel toe. Combined with the GT3 shifter I installed a while back the car is just perfection to drive!
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#10
Rennlist Member
Nice write up and a great look. Mine came with them installed and I'm pleased with how they work. Thanks for sharing!
#12
Just installed the Suncoast pedals. They look awesome and like previous posters said they make heel toe shifting much easier, especially if you have long legs and tip the gas with the outer edge of the foot rather than doing a true heel toe shift. After installing the Fister exhaust, and the "new" black wheels I think I have to sleep in the garage tonight. I just can't stop looking at her ...
#14
I thought I was the only one that did that! Now I don't feel so ashamed of my tall man heel and toe technique.
#15
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Scott,
Nice write up! Pedals look really good.
I was about two weeks behind you with the Forgestar wheels gunmetal CF10 wheels, and then you installed you lowering springs, which U have not done yet. Coincidentally, I installed my SRP aluminum pedals on Saturday. Rather than post here and screw up your thread, I'll post my pedal pics in my thread about the ceramic powder coated PSE tips.
Nice write up! Pedals look really good.
I was about two weeks behind you with the Forgestar wheels gunmetal CF10 wheels, and then you installed you lowering springs, which U have not done yet. Coincidentally, I installed my SRP aluminum pedals on Saturday. Rather than post here and screw up your thread, I'll post my pedal pics in my thread about the ceramic powder coated PSE tips.