Revisiting the hard start problem - evap system?
Instructor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, CA
I had a similar problem with my '06 997S. I didn't necessarily notice that it was worse when I filled up, but the car definitely lost cranking capacity when the engine was up to temp and I stopped, then re-started the car. The dealer checked the voltage and, initially, concluded that the drop was not significant enough to be the battery cable. But, after a second visit, they concluded that might be the culprit. It was. The cable was almost completely fried. The car was out of warranty, but, because of the TSB, Porsche was willing to provide "goodwill" assistance to get the problem resolved. I hope this helps.
Racer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 83
At this point, we can beat yet another "slow start while hot" thread into the ground, can all have our say based on experience, assumptions, and/or overly complicated wording by Porsche in describing the same thing... Or.
You can have an amperage draw test done by the dealer, find out it's the cable like 99% of the cars with the same common issue (which may also require a starter) and have your issue resolved.
You can have an amperage draw test done by the dealer, find out it's the cable like 99% of the cars with the same common issue (which may also require a starter) and have your issue resolved.
Racer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 83
For your own reference, anything north of 400A is suspect, and would in turn rule out any possible EVAP/purge valve after refueling concern unless so intermittent that you yourself had a hard time replicating it. Hope this helps without sounding like a dick (who deals with these for a living).
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,710
Likes: 332
From: Central Jersey
At this point, we can beat yet another "slow start while hot" thread into the ground, can all have our say based on experience, assumptions, and/or overly complicated wording by Porsche in describing the same thing... Or.
You can have an amperage draw test done by the dealer, find out it's the cable like 99% of the cars with the same common issue (which may also require a starter) and have your issue resolved.
You can have an amperage draw test done by the dealer, find out it's the cable like 99% of the cars with the same common issue (which may also require a starter) and have your issue resolved.
I didn't want a rehash - I was originally asking if the evap system could cause a similar problem.
Anyway - thanks all for the info. I'll let you know what comes of it. I'll have them check the evap system and also try to get them to do the cable test again.
Racer
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 347
Likes: 83
I understand all this. In fact, as my earlier post in this thread stated, the techs at my dealer (and my indy) have said the cable is fine. They ran the tests you describe and tell me that everything is within spec. Yet I'm still having issues.
I didn't want a rehash - I was originally asking if the evap system could cause a similar problem.
Anyway - thanks all for the info. I'll let you know what comes of it. I'll have them check the evap system and also try to get them to do the cable test again.
I didn't want a rehash - I was originally asking if the evap system could cause a similar problem.
Anyway - thanks all for the info. I'll let you know what comes of it. I'll have them check the evap system and also try to get them to do the cable test again.
But, it is not a common cause on 997's, and there should be system faults present or even possibly a lean condition.
The steps described by joelpirela will help you in ruling out things for yourself one way or the other. But in the end, if under CPO, hold your dealer to diagnosing and fixing it for you. It is after all THEIR job.
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Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,710
Likes: 332
From: Central Jersey
I just got back from the dealer. Good news! They "retested" the battery-starter-alternator according to the TSB and found a .7 voltage drop. I put "retested" quotes because I don't think they did it right the first time a few months ago, but anyway...
Any drop >.5 volts indicates a bad alternator-starter-battery harness, so they replaced it under my CPO warranty.
I tried the startup a few times when I got home and I think it's noticeably better. We'll see as time goes by, but I think this problem is now solved.
Thanks for all the help on this about the TSB and procedures!
Any drop >.5 volts indicates a bad alternator-starter-battery harness, so they replaced it under my CPO warranty.
I tried the startup a few times when I got home and I think it's noticeably better. We'll see as time goes by, but I think this problem is now solved.
Thanks for all the help on this about the TSB and procedures!
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 220
From: Milwaukee, Wi
I just got back from the dealer. Good news! They "retested" the battery-starter-alternator according to the TSB and found a .7 voltage drop. I put "retested" quotes because I don't think they did it right the first time a few months ago, but anyway...
Any drop >.5 volts indicates a bad alternator-starter-battery harness, so they replaced it under my CPO warranty.
I tried the startup a few times when I got home and I think it's noticeably better. We'll see as time goes by, but I think this problem is now solved.
Thanks for all the help on this about the TSB and procedures!
Any drop >.5 volts indicates a bad alternator-starter-battery harness, so they replaced it under my CPO warranty.
I tried the startup a few times when I got home and I think it's noticeably better. We'll see as time goes by, but I think this problem is now solved.
Thanks for all the help on this about the TSB and procedures!
Have a Happy New Year!
