I'm not sure if anyone did this already with photos. But, I thought I would toss this guide together quickly that shows how it is supposed to work--and it does!

First off, you need to pry the key apart with a small tool. A nice plastic tool is ideal, but I was a little lazy and went with my microtool and simply pried it apart along a seam--not at the physical key tip.

Then, I gently take out all the pieces, and keep an idea of how things came apart. Since these things generally reside for some time in our pockets I found mine had a lot of dust or lint in it, and its inner workings. I used a small toothbrush to gently clean out the dust. When you take off the silicon shield you will discover the CR2032 battery. (Only one). The battery is retained inside the key with three plastic lugs which are part of the plastic molding. (See pics).

Gently, remove the battery with a small tool by raising the battery out of the place that secures it. Pop back in the new battery. I found that if you assemble the silicon shield with all the buttons intact on the other side of the shell, it will come together a little easier.

Mostly, I did this to show with the photos the inner workings of the battery chamber.

To reprogram the key now that it has a fresh battery, you simply put the key in the driver's door, and turn it left as if unlocking the car. Then, turn it right to lock the car. Remove the key. Then you can confirm all is well by pressing the remote buttons to see if the central lock works and the front trunk remote works.

There is truly nothing to it. If you have big fat hands, give it to your wife to do.

I found that my original OEM installed batteries lasted 7 years! (BTW, the CR2032 is a fairly common electronics battery, and is available in a blister pack in multiple numbers--I bought the 5 pack at Home Depot, replacing both keys once I knew it would work).

 

Thanks for the guide! I'm sure I'll need to replace the batteries in my keys at some point.

 

Great DIY photos!

My original batteries are also 7+ years old and still going...

 

I was about to pop open my key to determine what battery I need to buy today and here is this post. Isn't that amazing? Thanks Edgy01, I now know I need to get CR2032

 

CR2032 are used in all kinds of keys, remotes, etc.
just buy a 10 pack online and save.

 

This should become a sticky!! Thanks!!

 

Nice DIY post Dan... thanks for sharing and this will be going on our DIY sticky.

 

Thanks Edgy

 

Great DIY Edgy Thank you for posting.

 

Just replaced mine. Piece of cake with your excellent write up. Many thanks!!

 

2032 at Radio shack in 7 bucks-ish
Dollar store, $1 for three pack.
I have lots of remotes and kid things with them.
Thus I often have inventory of them.

 

Question for anyone with experience with these things...

I recently replaced the battery in one of my key fobs since it wasn't working. The red LED was coming on with the push of a button, but the car would not unlock. I figured although the light was coming on maybe it just didn't have enough juicy to transmit a signal. My problem/question is, it still doesn't work with the new battery. As far as I can tell there is no damage to the circuit board and all the solder connections look good. Any ideas? I don't want to throw away $150 on a new one if I don't have to.

Thanks

 

Maybe the new battery isn't any good?

 

Mtnflyer- try another battery

Edgy01- look at all that dust and skin in your key fob. I know, mine was the same.
On the actual key blade. There is crap in there too. A little windex and an old tooth brush cleans that right up. I wouldn't want to be pushing all that gunk into the ignition tumbler. Eventually gumming up the ignition switch.
I can't help my OCD, but scrub that thing.

 

This thread

Walked up to my 997.2 earlier this evening and the fob was dead. Manually unlocked and drove home. First move was a RL search and here I am. Swapped the battery in key #1 in less than 3 min. No exaggeration. Went out to the car and did the 'left turn, right turn' routine and then clicked the unlock button. Worked perfect and it was ID'ed as key 1.

So I decided to put a new battery in key 2 which has never seen any action but is 6 yrs old. Walked out to the car and thought I'd try the clicker instead of the manual left/right routine. And it worked! Jumped in and the center display indicated key 2. Interesting. So no reason to insert the key and do the left / right routine?

Whoever does this next should report here

Edit: All that talk about dust was confirmed as key 1 was filthy but my virgin key 2 was clean as a whistle.