USMC_DS1

dbv1, you may want to get a pair of jacks from JackPoint for the rear and then use your standard jacks to adjust/level off the car... although I doubt a 5deg offset will make much of a difference in the amount of gear oil required. For safety sake I was much more comforted with the JackPoints while under the car. Make sure to ask John for the RL discount. https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ackstands.html

JustinCase, thanks and yes... documentation typically requires twice the time allotted towards the project itself. About the same ratio I used to commit towards preparing for the tech classes when I moonlighted as a part time instructor at IVC in SoCal many years ago. I find the investment in time worthwhile as the pics and notes I take along the project often saves me from making critical errors in the end. Altruistically, I have this fanciful notion that the car will be passed down to one of my boys and that these instructions might help them with a few DIY projects to keep her running many years from now. LOL. Glad to see that some of these DIY's are helpful to other on our forum.

dbv1

I'll look into JackPoint although I already have 6 jackstands and 2 jacks (and about 8 wheel chocks). I'll try level the car as much as I can (thinking of using the door sill for horizontal reference). So you figure a little more or little less oil is not a big problem given that oil is going to stay here 40-50K? What's worse, little more or little less?

AWay

Fantastic write up as always. I will be definitely be referencing this when changing out my gearbox oil also.

As for the jackpoint stands, I don't know how people work without them. More expensive initially but think of how long you'll own them. The feeling of safety is absolutely worth the extra outlay IMO.

USMC_DS1

Sounds like my garage... I have 4 regular jackstands, 4 JP's and 2 jacks(low profile and truck height). Of course, my boys and I work on everything from large 4x4 trucks to sports cars. I'm mtg with the SA this afternoon. Let's see what he thinks re a little less or a little more. I recall that it should hold exactly 2.9 liters of gear oil.


+1... if John(JackPoint) made taller ones I would own another set of 4! There is nothing comparable when it comes to safety and ease of deployment. When I add up all the DIY's(maintenance and mods) I've done... the labor cost alone has saved me well over $5K-$6K+ in the past 2.5 yrs of ownership vs. using the p-dealer for all the work. I can't imagine doing all those projects w/o JP's.

yvesvidal

When it comes to changing oil (engine or transmission), I prefer to use ramps for the rear wheels and low profile jacks for the front.

I find the ramp extremely secure and would not go under my car with regular jacks (I have not tried the Jack Point as they are really pricey). I like the pressure treated lumber pieces too when it comes to safety.

Yves

stronbl

+1 For normal p-car DIY work the JackPoint jack stands are great, once you commit to the investment; and as USMC_DS1 says you can rationalize their costs if you do enough of your own project work. I completely agree with the safety aspect too. I haul them to the track as well for any track work like brake bleeding, suspension, etc.

USMC_DS1

dbv1, I shared with my SA(a former p-car tech) your concerns re being slightly off with filling the gear oil due to a 5% grade in your garage. He believe's it negligible whether you have +/- 0.1 liters of gear oil. Of course, it's best that you place the car on level ground for both safety reasons and to execute this project properly.

dbv1

Thanks for talking to your SA about this! I can try level the car as much as possible or just put the fill plug on the highest point and put in 2.9 l exactly.

I like yvesvidal idea with ramps (of course, I have a set). But if you use jacking points in front to jack up the car, where do the jackstands go? I guess some part of the suspension.

What I really want is a lift and I'll get one, eventually. I was going to do it this summer but I ended up sidetracked...

USMC_DS1

This write up will illustrate how to jack up the car with only two JackPoints and two standard jack stands. https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ackstands.html

997_rich

5% should be no biggie. that's why they put the fill hole in the center of the trans- minimal effects when not exactly level.

yvesvidal

I just changed the gear oil (as well as the engine oil - but that is another thread) on my 2006 C4S yesterday night. Of course, I used this very good write-up for information.

I procured the transfer pump from Auto-Zone for about $10 and the orange tubes are perfect in the sense that they fit snugly into the filling hole of the gear box, preventing any losses or spilling.

A couple of remarks:

1) I used wide ramps for the rear tires and narrow ramps for the front wheels (also from Auto Zone $50 and $40 respectively). Once the car has been backed on the rear ramps, I use a regular jack (I did not have to use my low profile for that job) as there is now enough clearance to lift one side of the car high enough to install the narrow ramps under the front wheels. Then gently let the front land on the ramps, and you have the car at a decent height, level and perfectly stable.

2) Use of a slider under the car can be done but you have to watch for your nose or your belly. It is very tight and it may be better for bigger owners to simply place a cardboard sheet on the floor and crawl underneath. I wish those ramps would be a couple of inches higher. Once you have removed the underneath panels, there is more room to breathe (and for your nose), when laying on the glider/slider.

3) Practice with your transfer pump before getting under the car and before using it to pump gear oil. The smell of the oil is awful and will make you sick. The taste is not good either....

4) I got my oil from the local dealer in Cary, NC. I was lucky enough to meet a very nice person who accepted to sell me close to one gallon of the Shell gear oil for the price of 3 liters (<$70 including taxes). Very nice service and very fair price. He has my business for parts and maintenance items.

5) All underneath panels can be removed with a Torx 25 and a wrench of 10 mm. So before diving underneath, have them ready.

6) To access the filling plug, it was necessary on my 2006 C4S to move the alternator/starter cable junction box. The cable is in the way, and moving the box will help tremendously. Again, 10mm wrench will do the trick. Be careful as one small part of the alternator cable is not insulated. You do not want to touch that with your wrench...unless you have disconnected the battery.

The operation was done easily according to the write-up and there should be no surprise. I took advantage of my crawling position to check the condition of the shifter cables as well. Hopefully, the new oil will help engaging the 1st gear sometimes (my car has 53K miles).

Have fun and be safe, under there.....
Yves

USMC_DS1

Congrats on a successful DIY. Let us know if it improves the feel of your shifting.

McCrazy

Great write-up USMC. I will make use of it later on.

Dubbin'

This Diy is great. Just a small note.

The Porche workshop manual recommends 30Nm or 22 ft/lbs for the fill and drain transmission plugs. Not 30 ft/lbs.

Also, the fill level of fluid should be 7-11mm from the bottom edge of the fill plug and should not be filled until the transmission overflows. Having it filled until it dribbles out I do not think is detrimental but that is what the manual recommends. I just thought I would chime in.

thanks,
Mark

remik

This was an easy project and you should definitely do it. The smell is manageable; think of take-out food that sat too long in the fridge. And it is less messy than an engine oil change, since the volume is so small; just a few drops here and there on cardboard. Just wear gloves and after breaking the plugs, put your hands in a shopping bag and then fully unscrew the plugs so they do not fall in the pan and you contain any drips. To access the fill plug easier, I unbolted two 10mm bolts from an overhead harness.

I bought the pump from Harbor Freight for $7 and duct-taped the four connections in case of spillage. It worked without issues. I inserted the out-tube 5 inches into the case, and taped it for stability (see photo).





I bought 3 liters of Mobil 1 Mobilube PTX 75W-90 from Suncoast and it all went in before a few overflow drips. These bottles looked hand filled, so not sure how precise their quantities were. Their caps did not have any seals of "freshness". The old fluid filled them with approximately the same volume, so no worries.

I bought the new drain washer from Pelican, and the picture shows that it (left) was not as thick as the original (right).





I went for a drive and it feels no different than before (it was fine before). I just did the mantenaince with everything else at 40k miles. If anything comes up, I will post an update. This was for a 2008 C4.