Good just bought a a brand new 2011 GTS. Had less than 1k miles on it.
I've been babying through the 2K Breakin perod. Car has 1200 miles now and I decided to give it some gas today the engine cuts off power and makes a dull "rich" sound RPM's wont rise.
I tried it a few times at different speeds, ears and RPMs.....It intermittently cuts out with no logic that I cam decider other than that I'm applying serious throttle when it happens.
There are no check engine lights , If I didn't floor it I'd never know there was a problem.
I called the 2 dealerships service advisors- both assured me not to worry that the engine and computer are just getting acclimated to my driving style. They suggested I come back in a week if its still doing it and to NOT baby the car for te remainder of the BE period.
Help!!
Ill post some pics soon.-

 

New or other wise there should be zero hesitation

 

Rats - I was praying someone would say its normal

 

I had minimal slight hesitation before in the winter, but nothing like you described. Good luck on it being something minor and easy to fix.

 

As I said on the other thread...

So you are saying that when you floor it the RPMs do not rise? That does not sound right to me regardless of the computer learning. Is the dealer suggesting that you drove like such a grandma during break in that the car is gimped until it unlearns this?

I believe if you disconnect the battery and reconnect it after a few minutes it will reset the learning function. You'll also get a few error messages that will go away as soon as you drive. There are a few threads on this.

In any case I'm curious to hear the outcome of this one.

 

Doesn't sound normal at all to me. Is it PDK or manual? If PDK, it could be an issue with the PDK.

 

Nothing like that, mine is about to reach 2K miles. Did not go through a break-in period other than my own limitations in learning a new car. Good luck, hopefully it is nothing serious!

 

I have around 4,000 miles on my 4 GTS and I've never experienced this either, and I "violated" the rules and floored the car a few times during the break in period. There was never any hesitation and the car never shut off.

 

The car is still a new car. So there could be a new car problem.

Always whenever you bring a car in with a complaint you must be able to demo the behavior that prompted your complaint or explain as best you can how to reproduce the behavior.

Couple of things....

Not knowing the car's history there is the risk of rodent infestation.

Next there is the issue of stale gasoline.

On some less related to the problem the car is probably due for a brake fluid flush/bleed.

Also, an oil/filter service.

As for the break in there is no need to "baby" the car per se but to not baby a car means different things to different people.

In this context you should (always) be easy with the car until the engine is up to temp. This can take 15 minutes or more of driving.

One guideline I use with my cars is after the coolant temp gage needle gets to "180" it must remain there for say 5 minutes then the engine is up to temp.

Once up to temp you can use full throttle but avoid over speeding the engine. IOWs, keep the revs down below the break in rev limit guideline.

New engines have considerable friction and this friction at higher engine speeds can result in localized overheating of engine parts and damage these and the engine. Among other things it can score the cylinder walls and oil consumption can be higher than it would have been otherwise. There are more series consequences possible which I won't cover.

I would say with fresh gas of the proper octane rating in the fuel tank and with the engine warmed up there should be no hesitation.

If there is you must take the car back to the dealer and be able to demo this behavior. If you are told they all do this then ask/insist this be demonstrated to you using a similar car.

Be calm but point out that one very important factor in your buying the car was the dealer's highly touted service department.

That the car clearly does not perform properly and the dealer throws up its hands that it can't do anyting or claims this behavior is normal when it clearly is not normal and the dealer can't give you can reason why the behavior is present you believe borders on consumer fraud.

State you have lost all enjoyment of the car and consider the car's inexplicable behavior a safety hazard. How can the dealer claim otherwise when it can't tell you why the car behaves as it does.

You want the root cause of the behavior found and fixed to your satisfaction or you will be forced to consider filing a consumer fraud claim.

Be sure you get this down on the service invoice and you keep a copy for records.

 

In addition to explaining what the problem is, you can also use your Phone camera to make a vid/sound record of problems to show the techs.

 

Where do you live? You might be able to find someone here that lives near you that can check your car out or let you drive there's so you can see if they compare.

 

Agree, sounds very strange....should be no lag

 

SBPORSCHE, the symptoms you describe are definitely a driving safety issue. There is nothing normal about this and a dealer should address the problem under warranty. Call 1-800-PORSCHE and Porsche NA will have the car flat-bedded to the nearest dealership.

My personal experience was with a loose DME relay in the fuse box. Vibration while freeway driving, usually caused by roadway expansion joints, would cause intermittent loss of DME power, "random misfires" and ultimately stalling. Actually, the first dealership struck out on diagnosis; I was able to drive it to a second dealership, who located the problem after a couple of days. That was about a year ago and no problems since that time.

 

Headed to the dealership tomorrow am. I'll keep everyone posted. Many thanks for all the responses/input! And I'll get some photos up too - I know it didn't happen if there are no photos.

 

In the past I've seen instances of the behavior you describe with cars that have sat on a dealer's lot for extended periods like yours must have. The frequent start-stop, move a few feet, shut off, seems to load up unburned fuel in the cylinders. Higher rpm's are affected the most and is the most noticeable speed range where it occurs. It shouldn't take more than some faster engine speeds to clear this up. If it doesn't clear up, there is something wrong. BTW, the best indicator of a warmed up engine is the oil temperature gauge and not the coolant temperature gauge. Once the needle starts to move (at 150 deg.) the oil is flowing freely and the engine is sufficiently warm. In my climate, that takes 6-7 miles.