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Brake Rotors?

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Old 01-03-2013, 10:43 PM
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JFERR
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Default Brake Rotors?

I have an 05 C2S that I track and use as a daily driver. I have about had it with drilled rotors. OEM, Sebro, Zimmerman, doesn't matter. One track day and they're cracking. Two more track days and cracks are reaching the edge and connecting holes. I go through two to two and half sets per season. 12-15 track days.

No one seems to carry non-drilled or slotted rotors that fit 05 C2S.

Not interested in paying $2K+ for Giro Discs.

Help!
Old 01-03-2013, 11:10 PM
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Fred R. C4S
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This may sound counterintuitive, but perhaps you're using your brakes too much. Are you braking at the last possible moment, braking very very hard, or are you extending your braking zone and braking at lower levels? Maximum thermal input over a short time, or lower thermal input over a longer time? Braking technique can have a significant effect on pad and rotor life.

What are other drivers seeing for rotor life?

What brake pads are you using?

Last edited by Fred R. C4S; 01-03-2013 at 11:23 PM. Reason: Brake pads?
Old 01-04-2013, 05:12 PM
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JFERR
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The braking depends on the track, speed, tires, weather. I try to break as late as possible. Of course, as the brakes start to fade, the braking gets longer. I use Pagid Black for the track.

On the street, I'm a very light braker and use either OEM or Pagid Sport pads.
Old 01-04-2013, 05:19 PM
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CORSASCHNELL
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This is not common. The only thing I can think of is the over-tightened lug nuts that have warped the rotors which contribute to cracking under heavy breaking. It is common to over tighten lug nuts for track days for obvious reasons.

It is recommended to not use a power tool to tighten the lug nuts, they should be torqued to a specific amount (somehow 75 lbs. come to mind).
Old 01-04-2013, 07:30 PM
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USMC_DS1
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Of the top of my head I believe the lug nuts should be torqued to 96 ft-lbs for a 997.1 S.
Old 01-04-2013, 07:44 PM
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mdrums
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Actually brakes a little earlier and off the brake sooner will better balance the car and you will gain some brake pad and rotor life. So corners will benefit from trail braking and some will not.

Other than that I do not think anyone makes a slotted rotor for a 997S. You might also want to search 996 Turbo rotors too for the fronts because that is the same as your 997S.

I recently switched to GT3 front 6 piston calipers and a 350mm rotor. Still cross drilled but last a tad longer and much much better braking. I will be going with either Performance Friction or Giro Disc front slotted rotors soon....about $1000 for the front rotors and then $300ish per rotor with no hats.

What brake pads are you using? There are some PFC pads that just destroy rotors quickly.
Old 01-04-2013, 07:52 PM
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cairo94507
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I believe 96 foot pounds is the winner as far as my 997.2 goes that is.
Old 01-04-2013, 09:28 PM
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Edgy01
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I've seen evidence of PCCBs being fried in a couple of track sessions--yet no one else has this problem. The same is true for IRON brakes--depending upon how you use them. Perhaps you should get an instructor driver in the cockpit with you who can see if you're doing something odd when it comes to braking.

Torque value is 94-96 ft lbs for the steel lug bolts.
Old 01-05-2013, 03:05 PM
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KeninBlaine
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I agree. Having an instructor on board helps a lot.
Old 01-08-2013, 10:45 PM
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TrackDays247.com
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Slotted rotors up front.
Old 01-09-2013, 09:47 AM
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mdrums
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I need to correct my post above...I meant to say I do not believe anyone makes a 1 piece stock style rotor for a 997S. I know the 997.1 GT3 guys are using Cayenne rotors a the track with great success but the GT3 uprights and offset are different than the 997S.

However you can do slotted rotors on you car with the kit from Giro Disc. The rotor is a 2pc and it's slotted and larger. Kits comes with a spacer to space caliper out to fit rotor.

Other option is to swap out for 6 piston GT3 calipers and use Turbo 350mm steel rotors. No spacer required! Better braking and this is the same brake package that the Rolex Grand Am Conti series cars use. I just make this switch on my car. Stock Turbo rotors are around $450 a set but you will have options for aftermarket slotted rotors in Turbo offset fitment too.
Old 01-09-2013, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by CORSASCHNELL
This is not common. The only thing I can think of is the over-tightened lug nuts that have warped the rotors which contribute to cracking under heavy breaking. It is common to over tighten lug nuts for track days for obvious reasons.

It is recommended to not use a power tool to tighten the lug nuts, they should be torqued to a specific amount.
+1... start with this before considering the more expensive alternatives and to determine the root cause of this issue. Although it is fun to mod and gain the performance benefits of doing a 6 pot caliper + TT rotors afterwards. GL and let us know what the root cause was... I'm interested in understanding how this turns out.
Old 01-09-2013, 11:35 AM
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mdrums
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He tracks his car...heating and cooling is the root cause. This happens and is totally normal. After 1 weekend at the track my front rotors have very small crazing/cracks. The cracks get bigger with more track days. With a fast track and heavy brake zones stock 997S rotors will only last about 4 days...maybe 5.
Old 01-09-2013, 11:52 AM
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Good to know mdrums... I obviously don't track yet but with COTA in our backyard I hope to start once things normalize there. For light track use 4x per year are the stock S rotors sufficient? I'm considering the upgrade to Giro disc when it comes time to swapping out my rotors. Giro's are very costly though so I'm wondering if it's more cost effective to go with 6 pots + TT rotors like you did? What have you found?
Old 01-09-2013, 11:54 AM
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2.5 sets per year, that sounds like a lot.
I may use a set per 2 years with ~10 track days and 5-10 AX per year, and it's a daily driver.


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