Alfaguy2

Is it feasible to do a DIY job of changing the clutch on my 997?
It is slipping due to normal wear. What;s involved in this job?

CORSASCHNELL

I am sure it is if you are technically competent (I wish I were). My mechanic once told me the cost is around US$1,800, parts & labor.

What is the model year & mileage/km on your 997?

Alfaguy2

Mine is a 2005 C2S with 47,000 miles up.

I think you would need a lift though. Don't fancy putting the car on axle stands as it might damage the bodywork and might not be very safe either.


I will price around to see what it costs - thanks.

Spiffyjiff

you def need a lift and transmission (and engine??) support. i dont know specifics but i've heard that besides the hassle of dropping down the major components so that you can get TO the clutch, the actual internals replacement is relatively straight fwd. all i know is I wouldnt try it - neither the skill nor patience.

true, it isnt cheap to go to a shop but at least youre buying some sort of quality of workmanship guarantee should you bite the bullet and go that route.

Luxter

It IS relatively easy job to DIY.
You must have a lift AND a tranny jack AND shop manual available.
And obviously C2S is much easier than C4S.
The tranny is heavy, be ready to handle its weight. That’s why you really need a tranny jack.
Read your shop manual first and ensure you understand all steps required.
You must support the engine at flywheel end from dropping. I used a chain and a turnbuckle attached to sub-frame. It worked well for me. This step is a must, plan ahead before getting started.
The access to upper tranny to engine mount bolts is very tight and you will need a looong extension in range of 24” to get to the bolts. You will have to lower the engine on its rear mounts all the way you can and lower transmission end as well to get there.
Clutch line could be tricky too if not done properly. There are two ways to disconnect the clutch: one to remove slave cylinder from tranny, the other to break clutch line (the Foss fitting), leave slave cylinder on the tranny and deal with the clutch line leaking brake fluid and require clutch bleed after.
Shifter cables, half axles and electrical connections are relatively easy to disconnect.
Once your transmission is out, you get good access to the clutch. If the clutch has been slipping for quite some time, chances are your flywheel may require R&R. Have someone qualified assess it before replacing, it is expensive and cannot be resurfaced.
Some will tell you that you can resurface the flywheel and some will disagree. The problem is that the flywheel is a dual mass type flywheel and will generate a lot of vibrations during machining. The contact surface will never be perfect. It technically can be machined, but the results will not be satisfactory.
You will need eight (8) new flywheel bolts, discard old ones – don’t reuse. Make sure your clutch disc is centered very well before reinstalling transmission back in. Screwing around with 150lbs (or so) transmission that does not want to get in is not much fun.
You will also need a torque wrenches (3/8” and 1/2”) and torque angle gauge to properly torque flywheel bolts. All sorts of Torx, Hex and triple square (12 point) sockets are a must as well.
Once transmission is out, changing its lubricant is really easy and recommended. Use Porsche recommended fluid.
A new RMS can be fitted in as well once the flywheel is out. The 997 does not offer better access to AOS with transmission removed, no low hanging fruit there. If you have problems with alternator to starter harness ($100 from Suncoast), this is your splendid opportunity to replace the harness as well.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
=L=

holden997

Definitely a lift will make the job a lot easier. Last winter while the car was up on the lift for storage I drop my transmisson (C4S) to assess a small oil seepage between the engine and transmission area. It turned out to be a leak around the IMS flange. I replaced both the IMS washer and gasket. This was my first time dropping the transmission but the task was straight forward. My clutch was still okay but the slave cylinder needed replacement (broken tip) and I also replaced the RMS as a precaution. You will definitely need to reference the workshop manual and take your time. Good luck.

Alfaguy2

Well I don't have a lift or tranny jack and have never done a job like this before so I don't think I will start off by doing a 911. Thanks for the advice though.

I have been shopping around (obviously not at main dealers) to see what's involved. It seems its a good time (according to them) to replace the RMS seal too if its leaking. My engine and sump area is as dry as a bone though and it never drops any fluid on the garage floor.

CORSASCHNELL

In discussions with car buddies, they say manual transmissions are cheaper (and more fun to drive) than PDK, but clutch replacements cost every 50-75K miles make the cost about the same as a PDK.

Edgy01

I'm just a bit surprised that you need a new clutch at 47,000 miles. I'm about to turn 70,000 miles and there is absolutely no sign of slippage at all. But then again, I routinely get 100,000 miles plus from a clutch plate.

CORSASCHNELL

I have seen clutch replacement on 997's at 18K miles, due to over enthusiastic driving or poor shifting skills. Not depressing the clutch pedal all the way is also one cause of a premature clutch wear.

fast1

Clutches on the Porsches I have owned over the years have lasted anywhere from around 75K to 90K miles, and that's driving enthusiastically most of the time. Of course if you take your car to a dragstrip on a regular basis, clutch longevity will decrease dramatically.

Spokane5150

I don't really think Porsche buyers compare the cost of PDK and/or Manual when making their purchase decision.

Lvt19672

If your clutch lasts 18k miles, you don't know how to drive stick.