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Great write-up and overall not a bad experience. The passenger rear one was the most challenging. I punched out a Torx T40 bit and used it in a magnetic bit driver. Was simple after that!
Forgot to add. Plugs in since 2012 (14k miles) and they came out like they were put in yesterday.
I'm so glad for threads like this one, gave me the confidence to try this myself... My car recently started throwing CEL P0300 random/multiple misfires on both banks, ran really rough, etc., so after much reading on various threads like this I purchased a set of spark plugs and coil packs.
I can confirm that this is possible without removing mufflers. I only removed rear wheels and heat shields, and simply used Esco jack stands to get under the car.
In terms of difficulty level, I'd rate the cylinders as follows (easiest to hardest): forward most (#3 and #6), middle (#2 and #5), rear driver (#1), rear passenger (#4)
Honestly, #4 was so frustrating (just couldn't get any combination of tools to get on top of the highest T40 screw) that I called it a day and put the car back together with only 5 out of 6 completed. The CEL went away and I drove for about a week, car ran smoothly, but it still bothered me that I hadn't finished the job. I felt like each day #4 would just hang over me like a dark cloud.
Long-story-short, I found a mini ratchet (that came with a set of self-assemble kitchen stools), thought maybe it would work, along with a small T40 bit?
Happy to report that it worked! The old T40 screws and coil pack came out, I could finally access the spark plug with same prior combination of extensions/swivels, and completed the last cylinder... all spark plugs and coil packs now completely refreshed
Here's a picture of the mini ratchet that actually fit:
Recently completed my coils and plugs using this tutorial. I'm not going to lie, I cussed like a sailor and banged quite a few knuckles, but got it done. Cheers!
BTW, I bought Esco Jack Stands and they were freaking tall !!! Maxed out my floor jack and stressed me out ! Make sure to get the SHORTY Esco Jack Stands...
Last edited by username.taken; 09-28-2022 at 12:39 AM.
I'm about to do this as well as I've seen a couple random misfires recently. I have a 2007 997.1 S, but was a little surprised when I saw this part number (996 602 102 00 it looks like to me). Most of the replacements I see online are 997 602 etc. Any particular reason? Is the 996 just the old part number?
Many parts from the 996 were used for the early 997. Nothing wrong with that.
Yves
thanks for the info. Would that suggest they’ve never been changed? I’ve got about 80k miles now, and figure if those are the OG coils it’s about time they go anyway.
thanks for the info. Would that suggest they’ve never been changed? I’ve got about 80k miles now, and figure if those are the OG coils it’s about time they go anyway.
thanks!
You have to inspect them. If they are not cracked, then there is no reason to change them. They can last a very long time.
Two of my coils were replaced at 40K miles, because they were cracked.
I changed all six at about 80K miles because I had an opportunity to replace them all with a more recent set. I also kept a few of the BERU original coils just in case the new ones would fail.... BERU stuff are usually very, very good.
The last two digits will usually increase, as the parts have been modified or improved.
02-28-2021, 09:04 PM
