Monster231

Update: NEVER GIVE UP!! Recently a rent a lift pace opened not too far away. They have full tool sets and nice set up to get it done. We put the car on the lift and I cruised through the process in 4 hours including lunch, phone calls etc.. I ended up taking an allen to the top #4 to get it out.. The new coils came with male torx, which made it much easier with the tools I had available. I only removed the heat shields.. I didnt need to remove the mufflers or headers. They had mechanics on hand for psychotherapy which helped .

Car seems to run much smoother, but the 200ish HP gain I was looking for is nowhere to be found..

mrjonger

Edit - posted in related thread by accident

jeebus31

just did this today using Bosch plugs and the Beru coils. It took me 6 hours from jacking up the car to tightening the last wheel lug. Could not see a way of doing this without taking the mufflers off (though I tried), so that was about a 45 min-1 hr detour. The rear passenger side plug/coil is a monster. I wound up using a 1/4" T30 that loosened the top most coil bolt, with various universal joints and extensions. That took about 2 hours. The rest of them were fairly easy. The replacement coil that went into that rearmost passenger-side bank was not tightened to spec... I was unable to get any wrench in there, so I tightened by feel.

Otherwise, she fires right up. PSM error message went away within a few seconds of driving. Overall, not bad! Saved a bunch of money from doing it at the dealer or Indy. Paid $200 for 6 coils and 6 plugs and learned a little bit about my new car

cosm3os

Thanks for this thread! I'll contribute my experience. First, don't be a hero--get exposure. Remove the bumper, the bumper supports/heat shields that cover the exhaust, the exhaust (get your gundo done while you are at it), and the little heat shields that cover the coils. I also removed the top heat shield on the passenger side to gain best access to #4. That worked just well enough to let me see the top bolt, but I was close to dropping the motor an inch. Once you get the torx bit on the #4 bolts, you can get your 1/4 ratchet (or a ratcheting box wrench) on the bit easily.

Thread the plugs in by hand all the way down, then get your socket wrench on it. It's the best way to make sure you are not cross-threading. I torqued the 4 easy plugs. I did the other two by hand. I didn't torque any of the coil bolts, but I did notice that the Porsche tech that last removed them used a little blue threadlock, so I did too.

Oh, and start with a car that's never seen snow/salt!

Goods

Had CEL light; Super rough idle; vibration, and rough acceleration.

Random Misfires; Cylinder 1 , 5 and 3 Misfire detected.
Figured it was #1 due to recent Expansion Tank Leak / Replacement, and the fluid leaking all over that one.

So replaced the 3 driver side Ignition coils and spark plugs.
After removing wheel; and heat shield, strut support, and attempting to remove the muffler (Two of the bolts on the muffler removal are too long to remove without taking off even more components, so I didn't actually remove the muffler in the end.)

I can confirm you can remove all 3 driver side with only removing the heat shields if you can contort your hands around a bit. I've got medium size hands.
Best to jack the car, and remove the wheel too, but in a literal pinch, you don't need to remove the wheel. (remember to still put a jack stand under the suspension point if your car is jacked up.)

#1 and #2, for spark plug install and removal - you'll need a 3" socket extension, and a second 3" socket extension, then the 5/8 spark plug socket. Using only one extension and the spark plug socket gives you enough room to reach the spark plug and remove or install it.
You then add the second 3" extension, so you can hand tighten it with a little more reach. Before finally putting on the socket driver, to "2 finger torque it".
For #3, that's practically straight in from wheel well area, or can also do it with minimal interference from below.

lmaternick

I don't know why these would be single use. The torque on these is minimal....just enough to hold the coil in place. You will likely get some new ones with your new coils but if not just reuse. This job does NOT require removal of anything except the heat shields. Removal of anything else in overkill. I didn't even remove the wheels. Just take your time with extensions on #4. All the others are easy. Didn't hear anyone mention this but after you remove the coils....give the spark plug hole a shot of compressed air before you remove the plug...if you have air on hand. This will dislodge and remove any crap that might have got past your coil boot. Not a problem with a flat 6 as much as a conventional v engine but worth doing if you can. Can you get an accurate torque on all plugs?......doubt it but a good snug tug on your 3/8 drive ratchet or a really firm tug on your 1/4 drive ratchet is good. Personally I just did my swap out with all 1/4 drive equipment. Used a 4" wobble extension, 1/4" palm (thumb) ratchet (after torque was broken), standard 1/4" ratchet and standard flat blade screwdriver to unlatch #4 coil harness connector. Judging by the good condition of my coils and plugs....I fear that my misfire problems may be elsewhere but we'll see. I have had fouling on things like my Harley that had good looking plugs so fingers crossed. By the looks of it injectors are a step up in aggravation compared to the easy plugs/coils.

Porsche Injera

I am in a location where there is not much room for DIY and I would not call myself a mech by any stretch of the imagination how hard would you rate this project for a novice and this is my first Porsche or would you say I should just take it to thw shop

Bruce In Philly

It's all in the tools. Jacks, ratchet extenders with joints.... Torx bits & sockets...wrenches... tiny things to get into tiny spaces.... torque wrenches for large (wheel) and small (plugs) values.... etc. The work, in general is unbolt and bolt stuff. Not much thinking. Lotsa fiddling. A second set of hands help especially when removing/installing the bumper (the plate light plug is tough by yourself) is very helpful. I recommend removing the bumper and side skirts for rookies... just makes it all easier.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

snaphappy

Just the disassembly process might overwhelm a beginner. Jacking up the car and removing the wheels = unlike any car I had ever worked on. Took me 8 hours. It was very fun and satisfying though.

Porsche Injera

Wow I think I better take it to a shop I was thinking I could do it in my parking garage by myself but I dont think I have enough space just in case i dont finish it in the first day...lol.I am thinking to order my own Coilpacks and Spark Plugs could you recommend the best set to order

Steph1

Makes me glad I brought it to a reputable Indy. Took him 45 minutes and he never removed the exhausts. Was a real beauty to see him at work. He did quite a few while totally blinded by everything in his way. But it was extremely obvious that he knew exactly what he was doing.

snaphappy

I would love to know how he did it without taking the mufflers off? Maybe it's because I have a 997.2? Is yours a .1? Replacing the plugs isn't hard at all, it's just the disassembly and reassembly that's time consuming.

Kipp

I found this thread extremely helpful. Its an easy, but somewhat tedious job - but this thread gave me the confidence to git after it. My car is a 997.2 with an aftermarket exhaust (no center muffler), but it still has the CATS. The most important thing I have to contribute here is that I STRONGLY suggest you remove the bumper to do this job. I did BANK 1 and BANK 2 on separate days. The first day I did not remove the bumper, and getting the corroded exhaust bolts off was quite the struggle. Lots of laying on the ground to see/access the muffler bolts. Use heat, be patient.

Proceeding with the second side on day two - this time I removed the bumper. Wow, so easy to remove and it saved me loads of time and frustration - mostly because everything was so easily accessible. No laying on the ground, looking up, getting rust in your eyes and a sore neck. Screw that. Take the bumper off.

Had I taken the bumper off on day 1, I would have gotten both sides done in the amount of time (probably less) it took me to do one side. Just play it safe when putting the bumper back on and put some painters tape on the quarter panel where it meets the bumper so you don't risk scuffing up the paint. Just take it slow, and its easy.

Daffy113

Great write up! Couldn’t/wouldn’t have done it without this information. Four hours though? No way. I realize I’m getting older and have had a couple spine surgeries but that’s almost how long it took me to get the (corroded) mufflers out LOL. The comments in this thread are right on! If taking the back bumper off on the 997.1 will better expose coil pack number one, then do it! Anything is better than spending 20 minutes with a rigged socket + channel locks in place of a ratchet.

pamitchell

Many thanks to Dave R for his DIY instructions. I completed a plug change per his instructions and everything went to plan.
I didn't see any benefit removing the bumper. Yes, the rear plug on the passenger side is a bear but it is doable. Trick is to have several ratchet extensions.
I used an Allen key on the passenger rear coil bolts which gives you more access.
Duct tape the extension bars to the plug socket is a must. Penetrating oil will prevent bolts breaking in most cases. Next time I'll consider using 1/4 vs. 3/8 drive tools to access the coils & plugs and a flexible type extension bar.