Motul 5W-40 Motor Oil DEAL
07-02-2012, 11:40 AM
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Motul 5W-40 Motor Oil DEAL
I'm a big fan of Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 Motor Oil. It has eliminated all the big puffs of white smoke on start-up that I used to get with Mobil 1 0W-40.
The only place I've been able to find it is Amazon in 5 Liter Jugs ($39.25 per). A case of Four Jugs (2 1/2 oil changes) is $156.97. But Amazon's supplier charges $81.70 SHIPPING!!!!!!
I just found a small company near Boston that sells Four Jugs ($39.95 each) for $159.80 plus a FLAT SHIPPING RATE of just $7.99.
Better yet, you can use this code (dustoff12) when ordering online and get another 5% off. I'm not affiliated in any way with these guys, but it represents a savings of nearly $90. Here's the link.
http://www.speedlifemotorsport.com/m...l-5-liter.html
The only place I've been able to find it is Amazon in 5 Liter Jugs ($39.25 per). A case of Four Jugs (2 1/2 oil changes) is $156.97. But Amazon's supplier charges $81.70 SHIPPING!!!!!!
I just found a small company near Boston that sells Four Jugs ($39.95 each) for $159.80 plus a FLAT SHIPPING RATE of just $7.99.
Better yet, you can use this code (dustoff12) when ordering online and get another 5% off. I'm not affiliated in any way with these guys, but it represents a savings of nearly $90. Here's the link.
http://www.speedlifemotorsport.com/m...l-5-liter.html
07-02-2012, 11:20 PM
#5
I tried Motul and have since switched to Pentosin High Performance II
Better specs and this place ships free if your order is over $65, I buy lots of struff from them and service is superb!
http://www.rmeuropean.com/
Better specs and this place ships free if your order is over $65, I buy lots of struff from them and service is superb!
http://www.rmeuropean.com/
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07-05-2012, 05:23 PM
#8
X-Cess
Nothing but good, no - let me correct, excellent experience with Motul 8100 X-Cess here.
Highly recommended. No consumption over +5,000km, nice and steady oil pressure @ operating temps, does not shear easily, relatively quiet valve train compared to 0W-40.
Used M1 0W-40 & TDT before. Both had their own issues.
300V has fair amount of moly (500 - 600 ppm range) and higher HTHS.
No association with Motul, just happy customer.
----
Once i came across an interview with Motul VP Marketing Dave Wolman.
Here is what he says about Motul motor oils:
MS: What type of motor oil does Motul offer that would be of the most interest to us 351-C owners?
DW: We have two oils, a semi-synthetic and a 100% synthetic. I would say that the semi-synthetic has all of the current, modern day approvals which isn't as critical on an older Pantera. If the car is raced I recommend to use or at least mix in our Racing 300 V series. It is an ester oil, which has a very high running temperature. The advantages of the Racing 300 V, is again, the film that the ester puts down and prevents metal to metal contact. A second advantage in the 300 V series is that the ester has four to five times the film strength and the tensile strength. It is more of an insurance policy. Compare cooking with butter and cooking with olive oil. If you leave the butter cooking too long in the frying pan, when it gets too hot, the oil will evaporate at a certain point (volatility), it will actually carbonize and leave a mess because it has overheated. The ester has a very high running temperature of 365 degrees in the 300 V oil which will stand up to very high temperature in an emergency. For example, what if you are driving along and a hose comes off, a rock hits the radiator, a clamp comes off, the water pump stops working, the thermostat sticks or any of these things. What would you rather have in the crankcase in your 351, butter or olive oil?
MS: Why does 300 V Racing oil cost more than off the shelf products?
DW: An ester based synthetic is not pumped out of the ground. They are collected from vegetables, coconuts and Methyl products. It drives the prices way up. Mobil 1 and Castrol are designed for modern street cars. 300 V is designed for performance. Some of our products may be designed for energy conservation but they will never have energy conserving paramount and that is a complete difference in theory. We like to have some resistance on the rings because the rings are meant to seal. A total reduction of friction on the other hand is not very good for internal combustion motors. You have to have some properties to make sure the rings are sealing, etc. We use a different additive package and a different base. Other products are designed for moderate horsepower, moderate performance and moderate compression. What we do with the 300 V is developing it for high performance first not a mileage situation. The 300 V is the top of our line and has major portions of research and chemistry modification research going on constantly. It is constantly looked at. We now have 10w40, 15w50 and 15w60 among others. This is for different applications for different cars. Our 15w60 was made to tackle fuel dilution problems in 24 hour racing like at LeMans. After so much time, in the race, they get a lot of blow by and fuel getting past the rings during the race. This will thin out the oil so much that they had to actually create a 15w60 oil viscosity so that by the end of the race there would be enough viscosity left to hold or cushion the motor.
Enjoy,
=L=
Highly recommended. No consumption over +5,000km, nice and steady oil pressure @ operating temps, does not shear easily, relatively quiet valve train compared to 0W-40.
Used M1 0W-40 & TDT before. Both had their own issues.
300V has fair amount of moly (500 - 600 ppm range) and higher HTHS.
No association with Motul, just happy customer.
----
Once i came across an interview with Motul VP Marketing Dave Wolman.
Here is what he says about Motul motor oils:
MS: What type of motor oil does Motul offer that would be of the most interest to us 351-C owners?
DW: We have two oils, a semi-synthetic and a 100% synthetic. I would say that the semi-synthetic has all of the current, modern day approvals which isn't as critical on an older Pantera. If the car is raced I recommend to use or at least mix in our Racing 300 V series. It is an ester oil, which has a very high running temperature. The advantages of the Racing 300 V, is again, the film that the ester puts down and prevents metal to metal contact. A second advantage in the 300 V series is that the ester has four to five times the film strength and the tensile strength. It is more of an insurance policy. Compare cooking with butter and cooking with olive oil. If you leave the butter cooking too long in the frying pan, when it gets too hot, the oil will evaporate at a certain point (volatility), it will actually carbonize and leave a mess because it has overheated. The ester has a very high running temperature of 365 degrees in the 300 V oil which will stand up to very high temperature in an emergency. For example, what if you are driving along and a hose comes off, a rock hits the radiator, a clamp comes off, the water pump stops working, the thermostat sticks or any of these things. What would you rather have in the crankcase in your 351, butter or olive oil?
MS: Why does 300 V Racing oil cost more than off the shelf products?
DW: An ester based synthetic is not pumped out of the ground. They are collected from vegetables, coconuts and Methyl products. It drives the prices way up. Mobil 1 and Castrol are designed for modern street cars. 300 V is designed for performance. Some of our products may be designed for energy conservation but they will never have energy conserving paramount and that is a complete difference in theory. We like to have some resistance on the rings because the rings are meant to seal. A total reduction of friction on the other hand is not very good for internal combustion motors. You have to have some properties to make sure the rings are sealing, etc. We use a different additive package and a different base. Other products are designed for moderate horsepower, moderate performance and moderate compression. What we do with the 300 V is developing it for high performance first not a mileage situation. The 300 V is the top of our line and has major portions of research and chemistry modification research going on constantly. It is constantly looked at. We now have 10w40, 15w50 and 15w60 among others. This is for different applications for different cars. Our 15w60 was made to tackle fuel dilution problems in 24 hour racing like at LeMans. After so much time, in the race, they get a lot of blow by and fuel getting past the rings during the race. This will thin out the oil so much that they had to actually create a 15w60 oil viscosity so that by the end of the race there would be enough viscosity left to hold or cushion the motor.
Enjoy,
=L=
07-05-2012, 05:56 PM
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White Smoke
I track my 2006 997S pretty heavily (24+ events a year), and last year I began to get LARGE clouds of white smoke on start up after a 30-minute run on high-G tracks (Road Atlanta, Watkins Glen). And I mean BIG CLOUDS. Everyone feared my car had exploded or had caught fire. Naturally, I went through a lot of oil in a weekend. I had been using Mobil 1 0W-40 for all 50,000 miles of the car's life...the last 8,000 miles on the track.
Goldcrest Motorsports, a race shop in Atlanta, guessed there was a problem with the Oil-Vapor Separator, and it was replaced ($510).
On the VERY NEXT track day, the engine seized at Road Atlanta. Boom. The intermediate shaft bearing was blamed, but the engine was never torn down, so I can't say for sure that was the actual cause. A factory remanufactured engine was installed by Jim Ellis Porsche in Atlanta - Labor & Parts -$35,589.69
Part of the new engine included a NEW Oil-Vapor Separator. The car was loaded with Mobil 1 0W-40 oil. The first track session after the engine replacement, I got IDENTICAL white plumes of oil smoke.
I called Goldcrest. They recommended switching to 5W-40 and suggested Motul 8100 X-Cess. I have been through three oil changes and a dozen track weekends since, and I have not seen a single puff of white smoke. I'm also burning ZERO oil. I recently did SEVEN consecutive track days at Watkins Glen and burned maybe a cup of oil.
There may be better oils out there. But this is exactly what I experienced.
Goldcrest Motorsports, a race shop in Atlanta, guessed there was a problem with the Oil-Vapor Separator, and it was replaced ($510).
On the VERY NEXT track day, the engine seized at Road Atlanta. Boom. The intermediate shaft bearing was blamed, but the engine was never torn down, so I can't say for sure that was the actual cause. A factory remanufactured engine was installed by Jim Ellis Porsche in Atlanta - Labor & Parts -$35,589.69
Part of the new engine included a NEW Oil-Vapor Separator. The car was loaded with Mobil 1 0W-40 oil. The first track session after the engine replacement, I got IDENTICAL white plumes of oil smoke.
I called Goldcrest. They recommended switching to 5W-40 and suggested Motul 8100 X-Cess. I have been through three oil changes and a dozen track weekends since, and I have not seen a single puff of white smoke. I'm also burning ZERO oil. I recently did SEVEN consecutive track days at Watkins Glen and burned maybe a cup of oil.
There may be better oils out there. But this is exactly what I experienced.
07-06-2012, 12:12 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
mobil is a good oil with a good rep. is it the best for the engines? hell no but they have advertising power and $'s and thus getting it shoved down our throats is yet another "perk" of porsche ownership.
i use redline myself but i gotta say, the more people here that chime in about eliminating puffs of smoke (which happens only at the track for me)...the more i might buy into that myth and actually try motul. :\
i use redline myself but i gotta say, the more people here that chime in about eliminating puffs of smoke (which happens only at the track for me)...the more i might buy into that myth and actually try motul. :\
07-06-2012, 12:38 PM
#13
Race Director
It is a fine oil for your car's engine. Really, do you think Porsche would fill these engines from the factory with a crappy oil and then stand back and warranty the engine for 50K miles?
If an oil is no good, the engine will not need 50K miles to tell you... more like 500 miles, if that many miles.
Of course you can run any oil in your car's engine you want, but my advice is if you can't or don't want to run Mobil 1 0w-40 oil switch to another yet approved oil.
The Motul oil, at least some of the oils offered by Motul, are approved and thus as good as any other approved oil.
A word pr two of warning though.
IIRC Motul is a Group V oil, which means among other things it is an ester based oil.
My info is ester has a tendency to cause oil seals to swell. This has a couple of side affects. One it increases friction... do not laugh. In some models, GT2 at least, Porsche fits low tension seals for the last bit of HP, so the increase in friction is real.
Will you feel it?
Heck no.
But increased friction means the seal can wear faster. Will this seal then leak when it would not have otherwise leaked, or leak sooner?
No one can say.
If one ever switches away from an ester based oil the seals will shrink some and otherwise oil tight seals could begin to leak.
So my take is a switch to Motul (an ester based oil at any rate) is a one way path.
Sincerely,
Macster.
If an oil is no good, the engine will not need 50K miles to tell you... more like 500 miles, if that many miles.
Of course you can run any oil in your car's engine you want, but my advice is if you can't or don't want to run Mobil 1 0w-40 oil switch to another yet approved oil.
The Motul oil, at least some of the oils offered by Motul, are approved and thus as good as any other approved oil.
A word pr two of warning though.
IIRC Motul is a Group V oil, which means among other things it is an ester based oil.
My info is ester has a tendency to cause oil seals to swell. This has a couple of side affects. One it increases friction... do not laugh. In some models, GT2 at least, Porsche fits low tension seals for the last bit of HP, so the increase in friction is real.
Will you feel it?
Heck no.
But increased friction means the seal can wear faster. Will this seal then leak when it would not have otherwise leaked, or leak sooner?
No one can say.
If one ever switches away from an ester based oil the seals will shrink some and otherwise oil tight seals could begin to leak.
So my take is a switch to Motul (an ester based oil at any rate) is a one way path.
Sincerely,
Macster.
07-07-2012, 02:29 AM
#14
I've always used Mobil 1 synth. in my C2S. Its gotten so expensive though-about $9 bucks a quart this last round!
J
J
